Plug n Play Aux-in mod for 2005 6cd radios

jazzy...I don't have a Legacy yet and honestly I am waiting to see if the upgrades are worth the extra cost on the 07's...I think the only reason I would get an 07 is if I had to have a new color or color combo, otherwise I will end up with an 06 and I would much prefer a non CD version, are you talking about an autosensing type setup? That would be sweet!

Quick comment/question -

 

Jazzy - what would you expect the no-cd version to cost when you are done? I realize a specific price would be hard to say (and I wouldn't want to hold you to it) but a range would be nice. I have the current one (one of the orig. batches I believe) and have been using it for several monts and LOVE IT. However, a no-cd version would be of great interest. Just to give you an idea - in the $100 range, I could see not needing the blank cd anymore. However, in the $250+ it really wouldn't be worth the expense to me.

 

Also - anyone else have issue with the random/repeat play? Mine always seems to turn off every time I turn the stereo off. Every other car radio I've had always keeps the random on when I power the car off. Seems odd. Wasn't sure if there was a relation to the board (not bothersome enough to remove it and try but curious if others found that as well.

 

About the iPod from the recent posts - I have a 2nd gen I use and put it to the left of the shifter. It's slightly under the e-brake handle. The center button is a bit hard to get to, but forward, back and pause are easy. I ran power/aux out from right under the trim and put some black tape to hold it up. Can barely see the tape when you are out of the car, and when you are in it's next to your leg I'd prefer on the dash, but mine is too big. A mini or nano might fit there though.

 

Comment

I would expect the cost to be $150-$250 when done...probably closer to the $250 than the $150, but that's just a guess. I understand that there are several people that the cost would not be justified (like me) over the CD version, but I don't see any way to get the cost much lower than that.

 

As far as the repeat, yea, it resets every time you turn your car off. Since I dont' listen to other CD's (at least, not nearly as often as XM) and I got tired of it changing when I didn't want it to, I just ejected all but the silent CD. Then it repeats indefinitely.

I have the basic kit already installed in my 2005 Legacy GT. It works fine but I am getting an annoying "whistling" feedback sound which increases with acceleration. What can I do to eliminate this noise?

I have the basic kit already installed in my 2005 Legacy GT. It works fine but I am getting an annoying "whistling" feedback sound which increases with acceleration. What can I do to eliminate this noise?

You're experiencing ground loop noise. You need a GLI.

 

Crutchfield sells them:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-96BC94Qyipn/cgi-bin/prodgroup.asp?g=181150&est=&search=ground+loop

 

..and I also sell the RCA PAC GLI (with cheaper & faster shipping):

http://www.jazzyengineering.com/product_info.php?products_id=29&osCsid=ceea2b6df6ea5b8495fe79f181b50daf

 

You can also probably pick one up at Walmart or Radio Shack.

I have the basic kit already installed in my 2005 Legacy GT. It works fine but I am getting an annoying "whistling" feedback sound which increases with acceleration. What can I do to eliminate this noise?

 

its a ground noise, they sell modules that can eliminate this noise just search ground loop eliminator or interrupt

As far as the repeat, yea, it resets every time you turn your car off.

 

That's actually normal? Damn, I was thinking it was the board and just not going to worry about it (cost/benefit type thing but if that's normal, that's pretty pathetic (not you Jazzy - SOA)....

 

Since I have kids, it's tough to leave all the others out. Though I generally just hit previous on the cd every 2 or 3 times I get in and it's fine so far...

"Sales" have been pretty slow the last 2-3 weeks. With the '07 models coming out with aux-ins built in and current interest waining, I'm not sure if the no-CD version is worth developing anymore. I'm not ruling it out yet, but I'm definitely reconsidering. If I do drop work on that, I'm probably going to focus on an HVAC controls replacement instead.

 

 

Jazzy,

Do you have insider confirmation that the '07s have AUX-IN? I know they're adding satellite radio (both XM & Sirius), so it would make sense to add the AUX-IN since you have to change radios anyway.

When are the '07s coming anyhow? Are they coming out in the fall, as would be most typical, or is there something about the '07s that's triggering an early launch?

Jazzy,

Do you have insider confirmation that the '07s have AUX-IN? I know they're adding satellite radio (both XM & Sirius), so it would make sense to add the AUX-IN since you have to change radios anyway.

When are the '07s coming anyhow? Are they coming out in the fall, as would be most typical, or is there something about the '07s that's triggering an early launch?

Uh, no. No insider information for me. I just read the rumors and anouncements on this forum and you're right, I haven't seen any official press releases mentioning an aux input specifically, but since the XM/Sirius rumor turned out to be true, I assume that one probably is too. It might not be...time will tell.

according to the http://media.subaru.com site, the new B9 is getting an aux-in as well as XM. The Legacy, outback, and Tribeca are getting XM pre-wired and the Forester and Impresa are getting sirus pre-wired.

according to the http://media.subaru.com site, the new B9 is getting an aux-in as well as XM. The Legacy, outback, and Tribeca are getting XM pre-wired and the Forester and Impresa are getting sirus pre-wired.

The B9 with DVD option already had an Aux-in. Interesting that they specifically mention it for the B9 and do not on the other vehicles...now I'm beginning to think other models probably will not have one. I guess we'll just have to wait and see.

Just got my ProKit install parts today and have a couple of questions based on what you sent to me.

 

1. The Belkin cables have a directional arrow with the phrase "maximum bandwidth" on it. On the RCA mini-stereo extension cable it points towards the GLI while the RCA to mini-stereo cable also points towards the GLI. Shouldn't both directional arrows be going in the same direction or does this not matter?'

 

2. The PAC GLI leads do not even come close to fitting snugly on the mini-stereo to RCA adpator plug. Should I just get another one or is there a trick to it?

 

Thanks!

 

Uh...I may have my RCA male/female terms mismatched, but that's not quite-> the GLI's corded leads, what I think are male plugs, are the input, and the other side (output) are female jacks, so you need an adapter:

 

Audio device -> (optional) 6' mini-stereo extension cable -> mini-stereo to RCA adapter plug -> GLI -> 6' RCA to mini-stereo cable -> jazzy board

 

The extension cable is optional because if you're using something that locates your line out jack in the cubby or out of the way (like this), you can plug the mini-stereo to RCA adapter plug directly into that, but if you want a smaller cleaner cable to route somewhere around your dash, the extension cable will allow you to hide the adapter plug inside the dash (or under the console).

Just got my ProKit install parts today and have a couple of questions based on what you sent to me.

 

1. The Belkin cables have a directional arrow with the phrase "maximum bandwidth" on it. On the RCA mini-stereo extension cable it points towards the GLI while the RCA to mini-stereo cable also points towards the GLI. Shouldn't both directional arrows be going in the same direction or does this not matter?'

 

2. The PAC GLI leads do not even come close to fitting snugly on the mini-stereo to RCA adpator plug. Should I just get another one or is there a trick to it?

 

Thanks!

1) I didn't even notice the patch cables are directionally labeled, but yea, it's a bunch of hype. Don't worry about it.

 

2) Ack! Really? It fits nice and snug on the one I tried, but I only tried one...I'll test the rest of them. Perhaps you just got a bad adapter. Or, do you mean it is so tight it won't go on? Do you have a stereo or TV you can test the leads on the GLI out on to see if that's the cause?

I went ahead and tried the Belkin RCA to mini-stereo cable to the mini-stero to RCA adaptor and it fits snug. It seems the RCA leads off the PAC GLI is the culprit. They simply fit "ok" for the red RCA and less than adequate unless I somehow modify something for the white RCA.

Well, I did some research today. I took apart the radio to gain access to the CD changer lines, soldered leads onto it and powered it up with a 12V power supply.

 

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c161/JazzyMT/pins_soldered.jpg

 

 

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c161/JazzyMT/Radio_hookup.jpg

 

I hooked it up to the scope and identified the pinouts:

 

1] Audio +

2] Audio Ground

3] Audio +

4] Mute (3.5V Logic)

5] ? (3.15V, signal?)

6] Digital Comm I/O (3.5V Logic), plenty of activity even with the CD off

7] 25Hz pulse (3.0V, 10ms/30ms) on odd tracks, high/unstable on even tracks and when off? wtf?

8] 3.0V Constant

9] 3.3V Constant

10] 3.5V Constant

11] 5.0V Constant

12] Ground?

13] Ground?

14] 8.6V Constant?

 

Pins 5 & 7 have me baffled at the moment. 5 is unstable at 3.15V, and occasionally "spikes" down to zero somewhat randomly. I was sure 7 was a clock signal until the track changed...then I was confused again. From what I can find on Panasonic/Mitsushita, they use a serial communications protocol, which will help. I ordered a USB to Serial adapter for my laptop so I can program & debug my PLC...when dell replaced my lappy, they gave me one without a serial port. In the mean time, I'll keep poking around the internet for info.

 

Any EE's have any idea what 5 & 7 could be?

Just ordered one. I'm fine with the blank-CD method as I rarely listen to CDs since getting Sirius, so I can leave the changer otherwise empty.

 

Thanks, Jazzy...I'm stoked!

Any EE's have any idea what 5 & 7 could be?

 

Jazzy, if you can find out of this asynchronous or synchronous serial data, then you'll know if there is clock data being transmitted separately or not (possibly ruling out pin 7 as a clock signal). I don't know much about the unit, but I'll poke around the internet and see what I can find as well, as this project is of particular interest to me.

Well, I did some research today. I took apart the radio to gain access to the CD changer lines, soldered leads onto it and powered it up with a 12V power supply.

 

I hooked it up to the scope and identified the pinouts:

 

1] Audio +

2] Audio Ground

3] Audio +

4] Mute (3.5V Logic)

5] ? (3.15V, signal?)

6] Digital Comm I/O (3.5V Logic), plenty of activity even with the CD off

7] 25Hz pulse (3.0V, 10ms/30ms) on odd tracks, high/unstable on even tracks and when off? wtf?

8] 3.0V Constant

9] 3.3V Constant

10] 3.5V Constant

11] 5.0V Constant

12] Ground?

13] Ground?

14] 8.6V Constant?

 

Pins 5 & 7 have me baffled at the moment. 5 is unstable at 3.15V, and occasionally "spikes" down to zero somewhat randomly. I was sure 7 was a clock signal until the track changed...then I was confused again. From what I can find on Panasonic/Mitsushita, they use a serial communications protocol, which will help. I ordered a USB to Serial adapter for my laptop so I can program & debug my PLC...when dell replaced my lappy, they gave me one without a serial port. In the mean time, I'll keep poking around the internet for info.

 

Any EE's have any idea what 5 & 7 could be?

Jazzy,

How about Electrical Engineering Technology, class of '94?

Anyway, this sounds like the internal hookups that would normally correspond to the 16-pin external CD changer connector. See post #3 in http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=691652&page=1&pp=25

...for pin-outs of this connector.

 

This connector uses a 2-wire serial protocol, which is a bit tricky because both HU and external "changer" use the same data wire. It's an "open-collector" interface.

 

I think some Mazdas might use the same protocol, although some pins that are unused in Sube HUs may be used in certain Mazda HUs; see the aux. connector CN-200 at: http://www.miata.net/garage/m2interface.html

Got my board today. Damn, that was fast, Jazzy! Thanks again, looking forward to it warming up a bit here so I can install it.

Would someone who's installed Jazzy's mod in their U.S. Spec.B radio be willing to post or PM me photos of the job? I'm especially interested in how the climate controls complicate the install, and how the navigation system hooks into the radio.

 

thanks....

Thanks for the shipment Jazzy - I'm looking forward to installing it tomorrow! I'm attempting an 'ashtray install' for my iPod, so I'll post pics when I'm done.

I have to revise my assessment of the pinouts. I've done a little more careful investigation and it is not as it first appeared:

 

5] Clock Signal (200Hz)

6] Digital Comm I/O (3.5V Logic) - (From CD Changer? CD/Track/Time info?)

7] Digital Comm I/O (3.0V Logic) - (From Radio? Commands to CD changer?)

 

I think pin 7 is a command pin because of the 25Hz pulse (3.0V, 10ms/30ms) which I saw before on odd tracks, high/unstable on even tracks and when off.

 

The signal is not on just during odd tracks, its on until you send a command to the CD changer (ie. track change), which you can see as an interuption of this signal and then it switches to off... when you send another command, you see the command, and then it goes back to the 25Hz signal.

 

I'm sure it would help if I had a bit fancier scope than my $150 USB setup Still, I'm making progress. I've also found a few other sites that have done work on Matsushita radios, mostly for Mazdas. I'm not sure yet if they will be any help. I may invest in a USB Logic Analyzer to get me a bit further....

I'm not a Legacy owner, however I've got an 05WRX and through a number of links found this discussion on jazzy's Aux-In mod. I will purchase one of these, and I was hoping for one that does not require the blank CD hack. 250, is a bit steep, but I love the look of the color matched system and can't deny the elegance. So I will wait (somewhat) patiently. Besides, my wife has threatened to kill me if I try to remove the OEM deck . Eventually, I would also like to tap the board just before integrated amplifier so that I can run a couple of external amplifiers.

Welcome LastResort. You can certainly wait, but it might be awhile - like, maybe forever. I've entered the domain of "over-my-head" and may not return. Also, there's a chance the protocol the WRX radio uses is not the same as the Legacy, so even if I do figure it out, it might not be compatible.

Tapping the audio signals before the amp would probably require soldering, and you'd loose all volume control (ie, you'd need separate volume control for the amps).

I should also mention I ordered another batch of PCB's. I've got about 20 or so of the last ones still around, but they're running out rather quickly, so I'll probably run out soon and won't have more for a few weeks.

I really think I either need a new scope or a LA to be sure what's going on with pin 5. The 200kHz 8bit limitations of my current scope are becoming painfully obvious. Still...good DSO's & LA's are pretty dern spendy. I suppose I should make due with what I've got for as long as I can.

For better or worse, this headunit is also a lot smarter than I am. It's already saved my butt a couple times by self-diagnosis & shutdown. It has thermal overload that kicked in when I left it running a few too many minutes w/o the heatsink (even at 0 volume & no load). I've also crossed pins a couple times accidentally & seen weird things on display, or caused the disk to eject...luckily, I haven't fried it yet and can continue, but I wouldn't be suprised if this project ends with a puff of smoke...and putting the smoke back in definitely takes more skill than I have.

Welcome LastResort. You can certainly wait, but it might be awhile - like, maybe forever. I've entered the domain of "over-my-head" and may not return. Also, there's a chance the protocol the WRX radio uses is not the same as the Legacy, so even if I do figure it out, it might not be compatible.

 

In that case, I will probably get a MP3 player and that card in next couple of months. I think eventually I've got my eyes set on the new Alpine Double Din touch screen unit coming out. But that will be a ways a way, if my wallet has anything to say about it. I read somewhere that the additional connector might be C-bus / Can-bus, but I can't find that webpage again. I hope that both the legacy and WRX could benefit from the same parts.

 

Tapping the audio signals before the amp would probably require soldering, and you'd loose all volume control (ie, you'd need separate volume control for the amps).

 

I'm not thrilled about soldering the traces, but I think I can pull it off if I'm really careful. I've done it before to fix some broken traces in an amp that was abused more often than used. Are you sure that the volume control is in the power amplification stage? I was hoping that the pre mps provided all the tone controls and volume, allowing me to tap and buffer those signals. I'm not going to do that if I have to run a separate volume knob.

 

I should also mention I ordered another batch of PCB's. I've got about 20 or so of the last ones still around, but they're running out rather quickly, so I'll probably run out soon and won't have more for a few weeks.

 

Cool, I'll finish up the tax return and get myself an MP3/OGG player then.

 

I really think I either need a new scope or a LA to be sure what's going on with pin 5. The 200kHz 8bit limitations of my current scope are becoming painfully obvious. Still...good DSO's & LA's are pretty dern spendy. I suppose I should make due with what I've got for as long as I can.

 

Have you thought about rigging up an 8 bit shift register and clock divider to buffer the higher speed signal and use all eight of your input channels to read that single channel?

 

For better or worse, this headunit is also a lot smarter than I am. It's already saved my butt a couple times by self-diagnosis & shutdown. It has thermal overload that kicked in when I left it running a few too many minutes w/o the heatsink (even at 0 volume & no load). I've also crossed pins a couple times accidentally & seen weird things on display, or caused the disk to eject...luckily, I haven't fried it yet and can continue, but I wouldn't be suprised if this project ends with a puff of smoke...and putting the smoke back in definitely takes more skill than I have.

 

Well, I'll let you wander into that territory by your self, as I've seen more than enough magic smoke escape out of 100A IGBT's in my life. those things don't just fizzle, or even pop, it's like shotgun.