3rd-gen Outback/4th-gen LGT (BL,BP) Wagon Hatch Disassembly DIY

This is my second BL/BP platform and I bought it used - my first being a brand new Spec.B in 2006 which unfortunately, I no longer own. My current ride is a 2005 BSM OBXT 5-speed Manual. I'm documenting the procedure for disassembling the rear hatch / liftgate and the outer panel housing the backup lights.

 

So I undertook this project for two main reasons:

 

(1) Installing a cheap, Chinese, eBay/Amazon back-up camera as part of my complete infotainment, amp, subwoofer, speaker, etc. upgrades. The camera itself is one that sits in the same spot and replaces one of the license plate illumination lights. [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GQZMYXO/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00GQZMYXO&linkCode=as2&tag=bartendcom-20]Here[/ame] is the camera model I specifically used.

 

(2) I was trying desperately to fix a common problem with the BL/BP OBXTs and LGTs. That is, the locking mechanism simply didn't work anymore leaving me vulnerable to theft. After some requisite googling, I traced the problem back to the commonly broken wires within the rubber boot on the top passenger side of the hatch. So I wanted to replace/repair some of the wiring.

 

In any case, what became quickly clear was that the camera install in particular required going further than pulling out the inner panel. I was going to have to remove the outside (body color) panel in order to gain mounting and wiring access and do some soldering.

 

This first thing to consider is buyng some proper popit / plastic fastener removal tools. They're not absolutely necessary but make for far fewer broken fasteners.

 

Step 1: Remove 2 Phillips screws and pry out plastic pull down

http://www.nyccs.net/images/hatch/1.JPG

 

Step 2: Remove inner panels that allow you to access and change reverse light bulbs. They simply pry off (carefully) with a flat-head screwdriver

http://www.nyccs.net/images/hatch/2.JPG

 

Step 3:With the liftgate/hatch open, push the bottom rubber seal up a bit to reveal a series of black pop-its. Remove them carefully. Like a moron, I didn't do this fully before embarking on this mission and wound up ripping 2 or 3 plastic hoops on the plastic panel. You've been warned.

http://www.nyccs.net/images/hatch/5.JPG

 

Step 4: The last step is to carefully pry off the inner panel. All that remains at this point holding them in, is a series of 4 pop-its and 2 tabs. Go slowly and deliberately so as not to break anything. Here you can see the inner panel removed in all it's glory, the bare inner hatch and all the connectors.

http://www.nyccs.net/images/hatch/6.JPG

http://www.nyccs.net/images/hatch/7.JPG

 

Step 5: So now, you'll want to remove the outer (body color) panel to gain access to wiring and mount the camera. The particular camera I used has holes lined up exactly matching the stock illumination light locations which is primarily why I bought it. Start on the two extended bolts on either side of the panel (4 total). Remove them. I think they're 9mm or something close. There are 8 or 9 inner bolts (not pictured) 6 or 7mm maybe you'll also need to remove. You'll need a ratchet with a decent length extension for those. My recommendation is to use something magnetic or be really careful with removal as I dropped a couple of them within the inner caverns of the hatch and they were very difficult to retrieve. The main reason for removing this panel is that I found it nearly impossible to access the necessary wiring to splice/solder into for both the camera power and backup signal without doing so.

http://www.nyccs.net/images/hatch/8.JPG

 

Step 6: Here's the tricky part that I failed to previously find documentation for. It nearly led me to break the outer panel. Luckily, I didn't. Now that all the bolts are off, you'll need to carefully pry off the outer panel while leveraging a non-marring plastic knife to break the seals around the backup light holes of the hatch itself. They're sealed all the way around with some seriously sticky black sealant which you can see below. Once the panel is off, you can complete your wiring surgery.

http://www.nyccs.net/images/hatch/9.JPG

http://www.nyccs.net/images/hatch/10.JPG

 

At this point, I did my backup camera install, sealed it, soldered my connections and reversed the process for reassembly. I did have to cut up the OEM gromet and a bit to squeeze the camera's wires through the same hole. I used some sealant there as well to prevent any water damage. This is a great opportunity to clean up the years of muck, leaves, pigeon poop, etc that accumulates up in there - which I did. You'll also need to properly re-seal both surrounds unless you like water in your cabin. I chose to go with some black/rubbery roofing cement I had lying around. I completely removed the previous sealant, cleaned the entire hatch and inside of the remove panel, applied a bead of sealant to both sides, let stand for a couple of minutes and carefully re-applied and reassembled. BTW, I'm OCD and as such, liberally used Anti-Seize on all bolts/nuts.

 

Good luck.

Great write up, thanks!

You mention you spliced into the back up cam signal, was this a wire already run to the tailgate? Im adding a backup cam to my wifes 06 but theres very little info about the outback specifics on this task. I'd rather not run the av cable on my own if theres already power and signal wires i can use.

 

Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated.

You mention you spliced into the back up cam signal, was this a wire already run to the tailgate? Im adding a backup cam to my wifes 06 but theres very little info about the outback specifics on this task. I'd rather not run the av cable on my own if theres already power and signal wires i can use.

 

Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated.

 

No. I said I spliced into the existing backup circuit used for reverse lights. It's easy to find. Once the tailgate is disassembled, find the reverse lights wires. Have someone help you by holding the car in reverse while you verify for 12v and there's your switched 12v to splice into.

No. I said I spliced into the existing backup circuit used for reverse lights. It's easy to find. Once the tailgate is disassembled, find the reverse lights wires. Have someone help you by holding the car in reverse while you verify for 12v and there's your switched 12v to splice into.

 

That makes more sense, thanks. What length of cable did you end up needing to run the av wires all the way to the dash? Also, what route did you end up going for the cable? I have yet to actually get into this, but i figure the headliner is best due to the tailgate rather than trying to run it up then down under carpet and back up again to the stereo.

 

thanks

That makes more sense, thanks. What length of cable did you end up needing to run the av wires all the way to the dash? Also, what route did you end up going for the cable? I have yet to actually get into this, but i figure the headliner is best due to the tailgate rather than trying to run it up then down under carpet and back up again to the stereo.

 

thanks

 

Figure on a need of 10 to 12 feet. Better to go with 12 to allow for options. RCA cables (video signal) are widely available in these lengths. Power can be tapped locally as mentioned from back up circuit/light right in the gate. The other wire needed is signal which I ran in 16 gauge common speaker wire. The headliner method is far more a PITA than the low route (down rear pillar, through rear plastic wheel covers, under door sills) method. I can't speak for others, but this proved not too difficult. Removing the headliner is not a task I wanted to undertake at all based on nightmares in doing so on other cars.

 

-Freddy

Ok so i finally got into this yesterday and had another question for you. When i tested the reverse lights i was getting just over 10v. This didnt seem to be enough to turn the camera on. Did you get more than 10v at your reverse lights? Im still trying to figure out where the issue actually is and if its the cam not gettign enough power or if theres something wrong with some other part fo the install.

Repairing hatch / lift gate wiring 2005 Lagacy Wagon.

 

Pardon change in topic, but this thread is the closest I found that might deal with my problem. Five wires have broken where they were threaded through the rubberized conduit that extends from the body to the hatch / lift gate. They possibly were broken or injured when body work was being done on the vehicle. The impact is that the overhead light does not work either manually or automatically when the gate is opened.

 

My problem is that two of the five have the same color coding, so I can't determine which wire goes where. The color coding indicated on the wiring diagram that I obtained does not seem to correspond to the wires in my vehicle. The broken wires are red/blue, thick black w/ green stripe, thin black w/ green stripe, and two matching wires that are green with black stripe and silver rings spaced about two inches apart. One of the matching wires coming out of the hatch / lift gate reads 11.7 Volts when the ignition is on. Both measure ~ 3 ohms to frame when the power is off.

 

Suggestion as to distinguished between these matching wires would be appreciated.