Shooting for 10's on my daily driver

Thanks for the update, good luck find the perfect house or is it a garage with a house attached ?

I can attest that "a garage with a house attached" is hte best way to go...

Well the plans for now is a nice big kitsch, open floor plan. Mortgage less than rent which shouldn't be hard to do. Minimum of a 2 car garage. May try and find one that I can put a lift in but we just want to live in this future house for a few years and then rent it out and try and buy the garage with a house attached.

Finally bought some new rotors and installed the wilwood bbk. It looks badass. I also bought some IAG billet fuel rails and tgv deletes in a extremely limited edition purple color along with some ID2000 injectors. So the car is technically ready for e85 I'm still just kinda waiting around to see if cobb will ever support it. I'm also toying with the idea of just going full stand alone, real antilag would be awesome, as well as all the other benefits of a stand alone. But I would have to switch back to my stock ecu for the annual state inspection... does anyone even read these fourms anymore? Have they officially died?

 

http://i499.photobucket.com/albums/rr353/jmorris6689/08B03517-6B67-4679-A5C9-0C314C6EC077.jpg

 

http://i499.photobucket.com/albums/rr353/jmorris6689/6335A143-F7BC-49F1-A41B-B8603C926A90.jpg

"does anyone even read these fourms anymore? Have they officially died?"

 

 

It just so happens that your forum here is only MOSTLY dead. There's a big difference between mostly dead and all dead. Mostly dead is slightly alive.

... does anyone even read these fourms anymore? Have they officially died?

 

I just look at the pictures....

Certain threads are real busy. The technical sub forums are a little slower, but if you were posting in the 4th gen specific forum lots of traffic.

Finally bought some new rotors and installed the wilwood bbk. It looks badass. I also bought some IAG billet fuel rails and tgv deletes in a extremely limited edition purple color along with some ID2000 injectors. So the car is technically ready for e85 I'm still just kinda waiting around to see if cobb will ever support it. I'm also toying with the idea of just going full stand alone, real antilag would be awesome, as well as all the other benefits of a stand alone. But I would have to switch back to my stock ecu for the annual state inspection... does anyone even read these fourms anymore? Have they officially died?

 

Your thread is not dead. However, it would be more lively if you posted more often than every 6 months

 

Motec makes a piggyback system for subaru that lets you modify and extend almost everything. A racer friend has a discount if you are interested. Link to relevant ECU - http://www.motec.com/pluginecus/pluginoverview/

 

MoTeC M800 Plug-In ECUs are fully programmable, direct replacements for factory ECUs on a select number of popular vehicle models. Based on the M800, they control the latest automotive advances such as continuously variable camshaft timing and drive by wire throttle.

Complete with an OEM connector, M800 Plug-Ins are convenient and cost effective to install because they eliminate the need to rewire the vehicle. They simply plug into the factory wiring harness using the original sensors, ignition modules and fuel system. The units are built to operate with saturated drive fuel injectors.

Models

 

Currently there are M800 Plug-In ECUs available for the following vehicles:

 

Vehicle

Subaru

WRX and STi: most models from 1999 - 2008‡

Mitsubishi

Evo IV - X (RS)

Mitsubishi

 

Mirage/Colt

 

Proton

 

Satria GT

 

‡ The ‘08 Subaru M800 Plug-In disables some factory electronics and is therefore not suitable for road use. Race and rally vehicles should be fitted with a MoTeC SDC3 to control the centre differential.

 

Please supply all vehicle details to your dealer, who will be able to order the right model M800 Plug-In ECU for your car.

Vehicle specifications on the same model can vary between countries (e.g. Japan vs USA vs Australia), so it is important to specify the original country of delivery.

Basic Specifications

 

Outputs

 

 

• 4 x Injector outputs
   
  
• 4 x Ignition outputs
  
• 14 x Auxiliary outputs—for functions such as camshaft control, drive by wire throttle, boost control, nitrous injection, idle speed stepper motor and many more
  

Inputs

 

 

• 8 x Analogue voltage inputs—fully configurable including custom calibrations
  
• 6 x Analogue temperature inputs—fully configurable including custom calibrations
  
• 2 x Wideband Lambda inputs—for Lambda measurement and control
  
• 4 x Digital/speed inputs—for wheel speeds and function activation
  

Communications

 

 

• 1 x CAN
  
• 1 x RS232
  

Physical

 

 

• Board sizes to fit into the OEM ECU enclosure
  

 

• Connector to match OEM connector
  

 

I have a TXS delta ultec for a 01-06 wrx that might work

does anyone even read these fourms anymore? Have they officially died?

 

:lol: Nah man, we're still here. Well... some of us anyway.

I'm here, still checking in now and then.

subbed to this thread for ages. watching with interest from the land down under

Awesome!

 

You definitely need a stiffer suspension setup though.

 

Would suspension really cause that much bouncing or was he popping the clutch??

 

Either way you need a beater for a daily haha go buy a corolla or a civic. I've heard some crazy s*** but a 10s car as a daily driver? no way man

Well I bought a daily a few years ago... and I have a service truck from the company that I work for. Also recently bought a tow vehicle. And I upgraded the suspension awhile back as well. And yes blown struts with tein spring were causing the bouncing. But the car is still 100% street legal and able to drive pretty much where ever I want it.

FWIW, when it comes for shocks, here's what my son did when he was 16y/o. For the race civic, he called Progress Suspension, talked with the shock designer, want to say he name was Ed. Ed taught my son a lot about suspension an made us some shocks for the set up and HP goals we had. As the car got fast we sent the shocks back and Ed retuned them. The tracked great on every pass. I seem to recall the 60ft's were in the 1.54 second area.

 

My son is now 30y/o.

Would suspension really cause that much bouncing or was he popping the clutch??

 

Either way you need a beater for a daily haha go buy a corolla or a civic. I've heard some crazy s*** but a 10s car as a daily driver? no way man

 

Suspension/ctrl arms/sway bar+linkage and tranny bushings play a HUGE roll in putting torque to the ground.

A spring with no dampener in it (unless you have super expensive adjustable 7x struts) will flex and chatter like crazy on most 500+ horse cars. I have Broken the rear OEM springs on a 650hp turbo M3.

If you ever hit a track, just watch how the stockish cars "sit" during launch and the big boys do not.

I haven’t made an update in a long time because honestly nothing has happened. I put the car in the shop last April to get some new goodies like id2000 injectors, iag fuel rails and tgv deletes. The car was supposed to get retuned by jr. They have been fighting with the car since then it has has a misfire on cyl 4 that just will not go away. It’s has new plugs, coils, engine wiring harness, and everything has been more than double checked. Compression is good but is slightly low. So it might be time to retire the engine I built in my living room all those years ago. This thing has been great, over 40,000 miles making over 400whp the whole time. I got off the phone with the shop and the idea of putting in an IAG stage 4 extreme block with their stage 5 heads is being tossed around. It would be nice to not have to worry about cracking the factory sleeves and lifting heads anymore, but it does come with a hefty price tag. And I know if I go this route I will need to finish off the fuel system and add at minimum another pump and larger fuel feed and return lines, as well as add in a new bigger intercooler. Not to mention all the small nickel and dime items that always add up on a big project like this. All this being said my wife and I just had our first child a month ago today! And this poor child can not grow up with out knowing that daddy has a race car... stay tuned for more details as I figure out what to do

I was just thinking and what do you have in this car for lifters? Correction; the lifting device is solid. Like stated in previous post, Since #4 has always had issues (even though you have a higher pressure/volume pickup you can still be starved on all stages of 4. What do you run for oil weight. Are you dry sump? And have you ever checked levels after a hard drive (while the AOS is still working), also how much volume does the AOS hold?

 

Do you hear any ticking when you start the car cold?

 

This sounds like either a lifter is shot and a valve is halfassing it and throwing a code, or a valve is not seating right (possible bend) and you have a pre-det.

I would get the high lobe cam out, get the stock (or something close back in) and see what it does.

Just my diagnostic 2c.

Edited February 11, 2018 by TickerPyro

What are you even talking about? These engines don’t use lifters... the cam rides on top of the buck d which is on top of the valve spring. The aso doesn’t hold any volume, it drains back into the crankcase, that’s how the grimspeed is designed. It runs 15w40 oil and has run that ever since I built the engine how ever many years ago. And there are 4 cams in the engine and no point to pulling them out and swapping for stock. No the engine has no ticking at stock or after getting up to temp.

I am sorry I referred buckets as lifters, same job, different name. I was asking if they had been changed from stock and if there were any clearance and lube issues had been checked, as well as spring tensions (sometimes after a beating they get a limp spot)

In the operation of settling airerated oil it does allow a certain amount of oil to build up dependant on agitation of oil. If the AOS does not work fast enough you end up with volume. Did rings get gapped properly for extra heat buildup? Does the code hit right away and is it always Misfire Cyl 4?

You said that the motor has popped at least 2x. That is not a normal occurrence for any build.

I am here to try and help with a question. If you do not want help it's all good by me, just trying to be a nice neighbor.

There is no such thing as performance buckets... it seems like you have never taken apart one of these engines and are only familiar with old v8 style performance. The other engines blew up from poor build quality. This engine is the first one that I had built. It has lasted over 40k and made over 400whp it’s entire life. I have never had to split the case back open for anything. Yes I do know how to gap pistons rings, yes I did properly gap my rings. Year I did blueprint my block, yes I made clearances for the oil I was planning on running. No the check engine light does not come on it has a miss and begins to break up at about 18lbs of boost. Yes the aos functions properly. There is really no point to keep using this engine, I am at the limits of the stock sleeves ( that’s where the piston goes inside the block to help form compression and guide the piston toward the cylinder head.) the stock sleeves are of open deck design and if I push any more boost through them (aka compression) they are highly likely to fail. It would make more sense to upgrade the block to either a darton sleeved block or a block with a closed deck design. I’m likely to go with the closed deck as those are sold pre machined for 14mm head studs. Now please go and troll on someone else’s thread.

This is for drag racing or are you looking to the Storm trooper in lgt form? If drag oy, follow Griffin's lead and go sleeved. If tracking, I've had very good experience with closed deck.

 

I've been kicking around a sleeved closed deck, as opposed to buying the willall billet block. At a certain point, that's worth the extra money. Iag 4 extreme with sleeves is in that range. :-)

 

If you are having issues at 18psi, maybe time to start over. And ask yourself whether a 10 second lgt is really a street car. The plate is cool, but 10 second sticks alot better with cage to keep everything in it's required location through the whole run.

 

Also look at how many times you want 10seconds? One and done vs every weekend or every month. Completely changes build criteria. Stock block, big head studs, high boost and you'll get it. Then remove exploded bits and build for a fun 11 or 12 second car?

Me, personally? Overbuild that sucker and go for single digits!

 

I can model my build on some of your lessons learned.

My plans are more or less to overbuild the car, I’m leaning towards the iag stage 4 extreme block with the cooper fire rings and 14mm head studs, with there stage 5 heads. I would like to think that it’s most likely one of my valves that’s acting up. So like I said it would be kinda pointless to keep a stock block in the car, it is ready to go past that power wise. I would like to make at least one 10sec pass, the car never has been a drag car and most likely never will be. I’d like to actually track the car, while still being able to drive it on the street occasionally. I have considered a cage and should probably get one at some point. But for now I want an over built legacy gt that has the capability to make 700+whp and not just go to pieces. I also would not be running around at 700 or whatever it makes horsepower, it would probably run most often on a safe 93 oct tune. All this being said I am also considering the outfront closed deck block and still thinking about a sleeved engine.

My outfrount closed deck v2 lasted 29k very hard miles before succumbing to hg failure when a red mechanics rag found its way into the hg. It's almost back together, needs hood, exhaust,and intake horn installed to be legal.

 

The heads are 2007 STI heads with oem parts.

 

It doesn't make 700hp but runs 7000rpm all day

Yeah I’m gonna keep mine high reving since my turbo will not be getting any smaller. Current setup was revving to 8k new set up will hopefully be 9 to 9500. But yeah my heads don’t have stock valve train and internals

Nice. I wanted 8500, but it was another 5k to get everything working.