ReluctantGT Posted October 12, 2010 Share Posted October 12, 2010 Seriously. If you happen to live in an area where salt is used as a substitute for sensible driving, that thing is a sombitch. Swapping LCA bushings seemed like a great idea, till I ran into that hellish assembly. I managed to get the passenger side pinch bolt out without breaking it. Separating the ball joint from the knuckle involved driving a big ass chisel in to the knuckle and beating the steamy jesus out of the control arm with a dead blow hammer (PB Blaster liberally applied). The corrosion on that ball joint was absolutely unreasonable. It was like an artifact salvaged from the tropical Atlantic. The pinch bolt itself was half rotted through. I was amazed that it didn't break. The driver's-side one did break. I wasn't surprised. In fact, there was little swearing...just curiosity: Why would one design a steering knuckle so that a bolt threads into it...particularly in an area that is basically a vagina, eagerly awaiting penetration by corrosives? Luckily, in the end, everything was successfully disassembled, and hopefully reassembled properly. This post is a warning to anyone driving a Legacy in New England, and planning to remove a lower control arm: Pay someone else to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naimouasta Posted October 12, 2010 Share Posted October 12, 2010 yea it sucks. there has to be some kind of tool to pull the ball joint out of the knuckle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTTuner Posted October 12, 2010 Share Posted October 12, 2010 Don't use a chisel to spread the pinch bolt area, it cracks very easily. I found the best method on badly corroded units are to take the knuckle out of the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porterdog Posted October 12, 2010 Share Posted October 12, 2010 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1989958&highlight=ball+joint+tool Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted October 12, 2010 Share Posted October 12, 2010 the stock ball joints rust up very easily. ever since i went to the whiteline anti-roll kit replacement ball joints, ive been able to easily pop them in and out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nemo Posted October 12, 2010 Share Posted October 12, 2010 Why didn't you just drop the castle nut and go that route? If you don't vote Trump, out, you're a bigot who hates america. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted October 12, 2010 Share Posted October 12, 2010 ^i think t his way better as well. you need a truck pitman arm puller to pop the joint out of the arm though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nemo Posted October 12, 2010 Share Posted October 12, 2010 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1989958&highlight=ball+joint+tool To use that tool, the LCA already has to be off of the ball joint. So unless you're replacing the ball joint, that tool wont help with doing LCA bushings. It's a great idea for removing the ball joint, though. If you don't vote Trump, out, you're a bigot who hates america. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 12, 2010 Share Posted October 12, 2010 Remember to use anti-sieze compound when you re-assembly. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.