Dp/CB Intall.

My invidia Dp, and Hks silent hipower just came in to mach v but before I pick them up I need some tid bits on installation. I was told that in order to install the downpipe the engine must be lifted in order to access it, Is this true? Looking at it it seems reasonobly easy to reach however i didnt try puting any wrenches in there either. Also how crucial is it to follow the exact bolt trq requirements, and if it is then how to i measure it? Thankyou, this will be my first ever work on an automobile short of changing a tire, and putting in windshield wiper fluid. Any helpful advice would be much appreciated thankyou. P.S the money i save on installation fee's will buy me a new accesport, and make dealing with warranty issues one less stress.

torque is very important, find someone you can borrow a torque wrench from, or go buy one from sears, home depot, lowes, etc. Torque is the most important b/c you don't want to over tighten any of the bolts and strip them out, it's happened to me once and i will never make that mistake again. you will need to lift then engine, you can get the up pipe out either from the bottom (you need to take off the passenger side exhaust manifold) or out the top, the manifold can stay in. both ways require you to lift the passenger side of the engine. there's a nice up/dp install write up on here by mccorry (i think thats his name)

 

Nate

You definately do not need to raise the engine to install either the up or down pipe. You definately want to purchase new Subaru gaskets and torque the bolts to factory spec.

+1 for the new gaskets

 

maybe i'm confusing my up install with my bro's wrx up install. but then again i left my exhaust manifold on and pulled my up pipe out from the top. haven't done a legacy from the bottom...yet.

How is it I got two responses that were drasticley different from eachother. Obviosly the first responder has no idea wtf he is talking about, and can barley read considereing I never mentioned, an upipe, and he was speaking of it. To the second responder I appreaciate your input, however, I am very confused considering one of the employees, from Mach V told me after questioning that the torqre specs were not of importance, and to just tighten the bolts reasonabley, does anybody have some real answeres, aside from people attempting to sound smart, and gain more posts?

I've never seen a single torque spec for any of those bolts - and I've had two legacy's - 3 aftermarket downpipes and 2 aftermarket catbacks between them - none of them had leaks.

You don't need to lift the engine, it's a pretty straight-forward install, you really only need to jack up the front of the car and put some jack-stands in for the downpipe, same goes for the rear with the catback - if you have four jackstands that would be great, but it can be done with 2.

 

if you need any more info - we're here to help.

Follow the torque specs or not, it's up to you. They're there for a reason. The factory gaskets are a sandwich design with a rolled lip. You need to make sure you evenly crush the lip all the way around the flange. It's possible to tighten the bolts evenly if you've been wrenching for a while and have a good feel for the tools, but the torque wrench makes it easy.

 

You can also use some of the copper gasket spray from Permatex. Once it heats up, it kind of melts and seals everything up really well.

hey, my bad. for some reason i thought you said up pipe. anyway, i agree that the turbo to dp flange can be done w/o a torque wrench just make sure the bolts are not overly tightened as the threads can strip. for the rest of the cbe dont worry about a torque wrench at all. and for dp and cbe the engine does not need to be lifted. also taking the intercooler off will make the job alot easier.

 

nate

I just did a full Header back system on my GT Wagon and did not need to move the engine at all. We did have a car lift, so that made it a lot easier. You will need a torque wrench, a flex-socket and a few extensions. It is all really easy to do, just give yourself time and be patient.

Thanks guys, got the Catback on just fine, I bought the torque wrench however it was very hard to use with the space given so i just used conventional tools which worked fine. Probly ganna put the Dp on this weekend and I feel pretty well prepared. As for the HKS silent power exaust I couldnt be happier. Sounds Great, Looks great. I really wasnt even expecting noticible power increases even with the Dp on but with just the Cat back it is a very noticible difference. It feels like a brand new car. The noise level was excactley what I was looking for. Has a great low rumble, and is not anoyying by any means.

You have any problems with fitment between the DP and the exhaust? I have an Invidia DP and am shopping around for CBEs, if the HKS works well they might have another sucker in me.

does anyone know where this writeup is for the install I am gonna try to search for it

The DP is a whopping 7 nuts to remove, it's not that complicated.

The DP is a whopping 7 nuts to remove, it's not that complicated.

17 young one...10 for the heat shield

I beleive the tq specs for the up and DP are 26 ft lbs. I am 95% sure. Can anyone confirm this?

Just got the Downpipe on yesterday, the fitment with the my cat back was perfect, the hks midpipe accomadates the stock donut style fitment, and the Invidias gasket fitment, the downpipe was easy to get on aside from a few stuborn and hard to reach bolts except I cant get the heat shield back on, is there a heat shield I can purchase to accomadate it, or should i just cut the one i have. Is it crucial to have the heatshield on or does it hurt it in any other way than intercooler heat soak?

17 young one...10 for the heat shield

 

 

I don't have a heat shield.

down pipe make a big difference?? i wonder how the cobb mates with the hks cb