Megan Racing Up-Pipe problem

Howdy All,

 

I'm having a problem with my Megan Racing up pipe installation and was wondering if anyone else had the same issue.

 

The MR up pipe comes with new studs for the up pipe. My problem is the 2 studs that are closest together (the ones that go toward the firewall and the DP has to go OVER to connect the DP) are too long. The MR studs are threaded on both ends with a solid "block" near the bottom. If i thread the studs in from one direction they are too long, if I thread them in from the bottom they are too short. Of course the MR up doesn't come with any instructions or helpful hints (but you do get some nifty stickers) so I was wondering if anyone has successfully installed this particular UP and what they did with those 2 studs (i'm trying to avoid cutitng them down cause hardened steel is a bitch to cut).

 

I compared them to the oem studs on the OEM up and they are a full 1/4 inch or more longer. I can't even get the gasket for the DP on the bolts with the up pipe installed. (getting real good at taking off the manifold and removing the up pipe now though).

 

Worst case i could go by some shorter studs but i'm just wondering if i'm missing something obvious since you'd think MR would have test fit this up pipe to an actual vehicle before they packaged it up for retail.

Replied to your PM. The studs have always been to long to fit under most DP. Just lop .5"-.75" off of those two and you are good to go. Takes me under 1 minute to do.

We just cut mine when we put it in. Hope you have an easier time getting it to work than I did.

Thread the nut onto the stud and have at it with a die grinder.

Thanks for the replies all, glad i have a dremel. By the way BoxerGT2.5, I love your avatar, are those skittles or m&m's

Same thing happened on an STI uppipe/X02 DP. Ended up nothcing the DP flange (less than 1/4 inch) since the UP was already completely installed.

Thanks for the replies all, glad i have a dremel. By the way BoxerGT2.5, I love your avatar, are those skittles or m&m's

 

 

Skittles.....taste the rainbow.

Well, after many banged knuckles cursing and swearing i got my up pipe, turbo back and F/R sways all installed. I'll never do another turbo back with jack stands again, what a pita.

hoping to have an easier experience on mine. wish you took pics so i could pre cut them before i try the install.

once i cut them it was much easier. I cut about at about the 4th thread down from the top. There's a little jobby doo on the top of the stud that you use to screw the stud into the up pipe just count about 4 threads down from where the thread starts and cut away. Everything was beautiful after that.

now the ones your talking about are the two bolts that come for the bottom part right?

Here is a picture to illustrate the location for the 2 cut studs:

 

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y207/Pisadong/installsequence.jpg

 

You'll want to trim about .5"-.75" from the studs that go in locations 1 & 3.

For the two studs that were too long, I used the old oem studs. No leaks here. Just don't use the MR uppipe gasket, mine deprecated within two weeks.

+1. Use the gaskets supplied with the uppipe at your own peril. They will work, but do not last. I ALWAYS recommend using new OEM gaskets.

Not as if those MR parts are cheap... but why can't they include a better gasket with the kit? I can't believe that saving a buck or 2 would make that large of a difference that would prohibit a better gasket from being included... Where is QC gone to these days?!?:confused:

AFAIK, other aftermarket uppipes either do not include any kind of gasket or supply a similar gasket to that included by MR, so to call out MR for not giving us an OEM quality gasket is more than a bit unfair.

+1 boost junkie is quite right on that one, i have bought several exhaust pipes already and seen other members exhaust pipe packages and all come with the same perforated flimsy gaskets. Just do what i did and buy the set from KOP and you don't have to worry about it. Hell i have even seen complaints about the remflex and copper ones so OEM it is.

 

Boostjunkie sorry for the bother but should I grind them from the bottom where you twist it in or the top where there is no thread. I am just trying to get this sorted before i do my install so i don't have to run out in the middle of the install and get it grinded or cut.

 

If anything gianspi mentioned using the oem studs, is this a gamble or a viable option.

Boostjunkie sorry for the bother but should I grind them from the bottom where you twist it in or the top where there is no thread. I am just trying to get this sorted before i do my install so i don't have to run out in the middle of the install and get it grinded or cut.

 

If anything gianspi mentioned using the oem studs, is this a gamble or a viable option.

 

No worries. Cut the stud down from the top. Lop a bit more than .5" from them and you'll be all set. If you want to be really sure, just measure how much the stock stud protrude from the flange and cut the MR studs to match. I would not recommend trying to remove the studs from the OEM uppipe. I can pretty much guarantee you that they won't come out cleanly. At best 2 out of the 5 will come out in usable condition at which point you'll have spent more time than cutting the new MR studs and have an OEM uppipe which will need new studs to be usable. Long story short, don't bother.

AFAIK, other aftermarket uppipes either do not include any kind of gasket or supply a similar gasket to that included by MR, so to call out MR for not giving us an OEM quality gasket is more than a bit unfair.

 

OK, sorry Boostjunkie. I was not putting down MR, I like their gear from what I have researched, but I have yet to install a DP, so to any other manufacturer that does not include or includes a cheap gasket, that just sux IMHO. Now if MR would build/sell a divorced and catted DP, I would be ALL OVER IT!!