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2008 legacy gt brake upgrade question


Jimmy78

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I'm very sure the WRX had smaller rotors, and non-vented in the rear, so it probably won't work. (That's me trying to remember off the top of my head.) Wander over to NASIOC and look at 12-14 WRX rotor dimensions, then compare them to LGT rotor dimensions to get an idea for fitment. Then look up mounting details to make sure the calipers will bolt up properly.

 

Edit: A quick google search reveals all that you need to know.... http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1265631

 

Stock LGT front rotor size: 316x30mm

Stock WRX front rotor size: 295.25.5mm

 

Stock LGT rear rotor size: 290x18mm

Stock WRX rear rotor size: 286x10mm

 

The brakes on your Spec.B are quite different. Switching to the WRX system (basically the same as an N/A legacy, Outback, FXT, OBXT.) will net you: less braking surface area, smaller diameter rotors, and way less fade resistance on account of non-vented rear rotors. These calipers are very easily rebuildable, with kits selling on amazon for about $8/caliper. If you're having issues, rebuild them and replace any corroded pistons and hardware, followed with a bleed using good (re: ATE TYP200) synthetic fluid. If it has over 150,000 miles, replace the brake lines as well, they get tired and expand easily causing squishy pedal feelings. Don't blow a ton of money on rotors either, centric blanks work fine, all the goodness is in the pads. Get a good performance pad (Stoptech street performance), and it'll make all the difference in the world.

MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance

 

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Yes, all turbo 4th gen Legacy's have the same rotors. Rotors may be a little rusty, but I bet they're still fine. My rotors rust if I let it sit in the rain overnight. It comes off right away. Calipers... I would rebuild them and flush the fluid at least. Maybe take a wire brush to the rust.

 

 

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MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance

 

Everyone knows what I taste like.
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Rebuilding is easy. But be careful with the little seals, they can be easy to nick. Caliper rebuild kits can be had almost anywhere. I usually do rockauto or amazon. Another option is to just buy new calipers and turn in the cores, but I would only do this if the calipers are seized, pistons totally corroded, and not worth saving.

 

 

It's also nice to have a bleed kit to help you bleed the lines.

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I bought rebuild kits off of Amazon because I needed them ASAP, cost me about $30 total. It took all of an hour to rebuild the calipers, super easy. Two things to have handy are a compressor(makes it easier to get the pistons out), and some rubbing alcohol in a spray bottle to clean the fluid out. Also, buy a tube of disc brake grease(the kind that's soluble and safe for seals), you'll need that too. Can be had on Amazon for $5. A bleed kit is nice too, but not necessary.... I just use a section of 1/8" clear vinyl tubing and have someone pump the pedal while I crack the bleeder.

 

Now is a good time for new pads and rotors too! :)

 

As far as sources, I say support the LGT community! Contact Rick (Underdog), Mike (m_sprank), or Ken (kns brakes). I believe they all carry Centric parts, which would be your best bet for rebuild kits. (I'm an avid voice in supporting LGT, my whole engine R&R was sourced from vendors on here)

 

 

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MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance

 

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