Moderators BarManBean Posted May 9, 2014 Moderators Share Posted May 9, 2014 Did this back when I swapped out my clutch and the advice was very helpful. Looks like I'll have a chance to tackle my stage 3 upgrades starting next week so I figured I would get this up and running. List of parts to be installed: BNR 16G IP&T oil lines Invidia big-tube headers with integrated up pipe JDM TGV deletes Injector Dynamics 1000cc top feeds with conversion fuel rails, lines, and PnP adapters Cobb SF Intake with box Replacement intake manifold gaskets Grimmspeed 3mm Phenolic Spacers TurkeyLord metal "t" fiting GroupN motor mounts New STi oil pan Samco Inlet For now, I'm probably most uncomfortable with the fuel lines and removal of the intake manifold. Do I need any tools for the fuel lines? Anything to note for intake manifold removal? Most of the other things seem straight forward at the moment, although I'm sure I'll run into more questions down the road. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 stage 3... why such a small turbo ? fuel lines, just remove them from the shock tower. lift the intake by removing the 8 long bolts that hold the TGV's to the heads. I think you know the rest...tighten the gas line clamps, clean the ground wires...etc. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nrw Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 The header, if you can get a second set of hands to help you. Do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 9, 2014 Author Moderators Share Posted May 9, 2014 stage 3... why such a small turbo ? fuel lines, just remove them from the shock tower. lift the intake by removing the 8 long bolts that hold the TGV's to the heads. I think you know the rest...tighten the gas line clamps, clean the ground wires...etc. Roger. Small turbo because the price was right and it shouldn't stress the block really. I think I'll get a lot out of it anyway. If I want more power in the future it will only require a simple turbo swap. Nothing else will really need to change. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 9, 2014 Author Moderators Share Posted May 9, 2014 The header, if you can get a second set of hands to help you. Do it. Yeah, I should hopefully some help spread across the work days. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nrw Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 It's doable without help, just a PITA to line all 11 holes up at once by yourself. I learned this from experience Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ragman Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 already got a bigger fuel pump? going e-85 too? EBCS? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 9, 2014 Author Moderators Share Posted May 9, 2014 Yeah, didn't include all other supporting mods but maybe I should have. Suffice it to say that I'm pretty sure they're all going to be there after this next install. Fuel pump and ebcs already installed. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cryo Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 A second set of hands will go along way like NRW mentioned earlier when it comes to the header and lining up the turbo inlet. - Prop the turbo inlet up at an angle with a chain of zipties and have someone hold it while dropping the turbo into place. This allows the turbo to slip into the inlet as it goes onto the studs and oil return line. - Ziptie every vac line you can while you have the manifold off. - With all the wrenching your used to doing its pretty strait forward and I think the manifold will be easier than you think given your experience. Dave [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Providing unmatched customer service and a Premium level of Dyno/E-tuning to the Community cryotuneperformance@yahoo.com facebook.com/cryotuneperformance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 Bolt the turbo on. It's much easier. http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4783.jpg' alt='DSCN4783.jpg'> 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markbo Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 Well heck man, everything is easier with the engine out of the car! What is your anticipated PSI & HP/Torque Barman? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saltysubie Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 You don't really need these, but they're cheap and you can disconnect fuel lines really easy. IIRC, it's the 5/16" size for our fuel lines. http://www.amazon.com/Fuel-Oil-Line-Disconnect-CP5102/dp/B00158UAE2/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1GW6JBNQ94W86F1983H7 I did the intake manifold the hard way the first time by trying to remove everything on it first. After I got it apart, it was apparent that the intake manifold (and most everything attached to it) were meant to come off as one unit. The second time, I just disconnected the fuel lines, disconnected all of the wiring that tied the manifold assembly to wiring harnesses attached to the car, disconnected a few vacuum/boost control lines, disconnected the turbo inlet from the turbo and intake box, PCV hoses, and then took out the bolts holding the TGV's to the heads. It lifted off so much easier. I think I read a write up somewhere on it here. My parts list is very similar and went with the 18G for similar reasons. Now, just waiting on that Grimmspeed TMIC... sigh Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 14, 2014 Author Moderators Share Posted May 14, 2014 Thanks for the info, all. Started disassembling things tonight and it looks like my stock turbo is actually on it's way out--lucky time to tackle an upgrade I guess. With that being the case, time to press on with everything else no matter what. Will continue to post up questions here as needed "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 14, 2014 Author Moderators Share Posted May 14, 2014 Bolt the turbo on. It's much easier. Could be wrong, but I really don't think that bolting it on works unless the whole engine is out of the car. You need to have studs on the up pipe or else there's no room to hold both a bolt/nut in place for all 5 connections with the engine installed "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 15, 2014 Author Moderators Share Posted May 15, 2014 Things are moving along. TGVs back on and fuel stuff is installed aside from lines. The clearance for everything is still really tight, even with removing all of the stock fuel lines. Turbo is out, oil pan is back on. Getting close to being ready to start putting the intake manifold back on. Any tips for that? So many damned connections to link back up "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 15, 2014 Author Moderators Share Posted May 15, 2014 How tight do AN fittings need to be for fuel lines? "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markbo Posted May 16, 2014 Share Posted May 16, 2014 Not too... they are aluminum after all. Not sure what you have done to your car previously but when I replaced my blown turbo all of the rubber hoses were hard and brittle. Dealer had a kit to replace all of the upper hoses. I am sure it saved me headaches from chasing issues later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 16, 2014 Share Posted May 16, 2014 Are your AN fittings, AN on both ends or NPT on one end ? The answer to both types is snug. NPT should have a few wraps of teflon pipe tape on them. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 16, 2014 Author Moderators Share Posted May 16, 2014 Must be AN on both ends, specifically says do not use teflon tape. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 16, 2014 Share Posted May 16, 2014 Could be wrong, but I really don't think that bolting it on works unless the whole engine is out of the car. You need to have studs on the up pipe or else there's no room to hold both a bolt/nut in place for all 5 connections with the engine installed No, the bolt thread into the threads the studs came out of. No nuts. I thought the turbo sits on the up pipe with 3 studs. the DP is held on with 5. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 16, 2014 Share Posted May 16, 2014 Must be AN on both ends, specifically says do not use teflon tape. If its AN on both ends, just most look a like, both ends have a 37* angle. Oh. what shape is your oil return line in ? dry or flexible ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 16, 2014 Author Moderators Share Posted May 16, 2014 Yeah, the male fitting has an angle on it. I'm replacing the oil return line with a fresh one, going to pick it up from the dealer today along with a turbo coolant line as well. I also have a whole bunch of vacuum line and will likely replace a bunch of stuff with that, just wasn't sure that I would use all of the silicone bits. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 16, 2014 Share Posted May 16, 2014 Things are moving along. TGVs back on and fuel stuff is installed aside from lines. The clearance for everything is still really tight, even with removing all of the stock fuel lines. Turbo is out, oil pan is back on. Getting close to being ready to start putting the intake manifold back on. Any tips for that? So many damned connections to link back up I seem to recall all the connections are different so you can't put the wrong one on the worng sensor. Go slow and make sure you plug them all back in, its easy to miss one. Did you clean the grounds by the brake booster ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 16, 2014 Author Moderators Share Posted May 16, 2014 I seem to recall all the connections are different so you can't put the wrong one on the worng sensor. Go slow and make sure you plug them all back in, its easy to miss one. Did you clean the grounds by the brake booster ? Grounds by the brake booster? You mean the ones that go to the little bracket that attaches to the TGV? If so, those are clean as a whistle. Either way, I can honestly say that I don't think any of my grounds need cleaning. Car is rust free and never saw salt until this winter, and what it saw this winter seems to have had no real effect. I know you're jealous "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 16, 2014 Share Posted May 16, 2014 LOL yes, jealous, except for the fact that I had a great winter skiing. Last day was Friday, April 18th. I'm just trying to go down the list of things we all should do from time to time to keep these cars running well. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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