How to: Injector install / Replacement (With Pics!)

Is it bad if I cant run the engine to relive the pressure? I started ripping stuff apart to swap the turbo already so I cant pull the fuse and run the gas out.

Gas may spit out at you if you open up the fuel system, but if the engine is cold, you'll be fine. Just dry up any spills.

Much thanks for the tutorial bro, just pulled my injectors to send 'em to witch hunter performance for a cleaning and flow test.

Thanks for the tutorial. I have an 07 that I need to change #1 injector. How different will my experience be vs this (2005/2006)? I tried searching for another thread on it but couldn't find it so sorry if I missed it.

Thx

If yours is topfeed, I believe lifting the manifold may be required , but the idea is the same.

You have the "bracket of death" to deal with on the top feed injectors.

 

This might help: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2363216&postcount=9

 

While this is a 2011 WRX, there's very little if any difference, and this is about as thorough as you can get: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2308068

Bracket of death? Effin awesome....

 

Thanks for the threads though!

We did an injector swap on Mr. Hicksta's 08 LGT last Summer and we got it done. It's the least user accessible part I can recall on a Subaru, but Overland4's how-to that I linked you to above, walks you through it all.

 

And "bracket of death" isn't my term... it's a the term of affection so many have come to use when describing it... YMMV.

Well I'll post up when I'm done how it went.

 

I havent done much work on this car but #4 spark plug is terrible. This is gonna be fun! O.o

Undo the motor mounts, undo the pitchstopper, lift the engine (2x6 under oil pan on top of a jack works well), put the nuts back on the motor mount studs, set the motor on top of the cross-chassis mount. Do your spark plugs, Reverse your motor mount process.

Injector replaced. Idles much smoother. Ran great. Threw the same code 10 minutes later gently strolling on a flat road doing about 50.

 

Gahhdamn this car sometimes!

 

Anyone have any ideas? Valve issues?

 

I also Seafoamed the crankcase and it's running as smooth as it's ever run. Cleared the code. Came back. Grrr

Injector replaced. Idles much smoother. Ran great. Threw the same code 10 minutes later gently strolling on a flat road doing about 50.

 

Gahhdamn this car sometimes!

 

Anyone have any ideas? Valve issues?

 

I also Seafoamed the crankcase and it's running as smooth as it's ever run. Cleared the code. Came back. Grrr

 

I am assuming CEL is for cylinder #1 (or #4?). Assuming it is for #1 and since you have brand new injector in there, next step is to swap coils between #1 and #3. See if misfire follows. If not, same job with spark plugs or put brand new spark plugs all around. See what happens. If it stays in #1, well then compression and leak down tests.

In my case, I did all this troubleshooting and my misfire remained in the same cylinder (#4). Ended up being bad valve clearance.

Thanks. I swapped coil packs and it didnt follow. Issue is in #1.

 

Stealership guy said sometimes the timing belt gets loose and messes up the timing. (It's original belt at 95k miles)

 

I'm thinking valve adjustment.

Are spark plugs new?

 

IMHO, if timing was messed up, it would affect the whole bank and not just one cylinder. Technically, it is possible to check valve clearance with the engine in.

 

It may be time for a compression/ leak down tests. You can also let the car idle, open the oil cap and see if smoke comes out pulsing, then ringland issue .

Edited September 27, 2013 by xt2005bonbon

Oh, I also did the plugs 1st. Then coil swap and then injector. Trying to go from easiest to shittiest.

Last summer I kept getting cylinder 2 misfire on my code reader, replaced a ton of things like: Spark plugs, coil pack on #2, pulled injectors and sent them to witch hunter performance in WA to have them cleaned and flow tested. Only to find out while putting it back together that I had an exhaust hose leak. Funny how the little things'll getcha'.

Dammit I cracked a cap. Is this necessary or can it run without it?

The gray cap. Nah your fine.

Great write up!

How on earth do you guys push these (sidefed) in without damaging the injectors? I was hoping the FSM would say something about it, nothing, was hoping for even a special tool, nothing. If you try to use the bracket to push them in the bracket bends.

I just swapped an injector two weeks ago. I just lubed a bit the orings on the injector. I then put the injector in place, and used the end of a mallet (handle side) to push the injector in. I put quite some pressure to it, but it eventually went in.

Question what if the replacement injector does not have the gray cap? Do I swap it over?

Yup

Thanks

Out of curiosity what does that Grey cap do? Hypothetically if I just broke mine trying to push the injector back in, will it work without ?