While it's out

2006 Wagon 5EAT (stock, no mods)

 

I have a leaking Head Gasket issue and a leaking Oil Cooler issue.

 

I am going to pull the engine to do the work of changing the Head Gaskets, Oil Cooler Gasket and whatever else I can do while the engine is out of the car. Since the engine will be out of the car, what else would be recommended to do? I will be on vacation so I will have about a week to do everything I can.

 

The engine will be on a stand and I have plenty of tools.

 

The purpose of this post is to compile a list of viable options so I can gather parts before I jump in, and to order any little last minute things I might need.

 

I've looked over countless other posts and have some ideas but would like a little more input. Keeping in mind time involved and costs (cheap & easy = better).... any thoughts?

 

Timing Belt, Pulleys & Water Pump were done 40k miles ago.

Of course ... everything needs to be cleaned!

Thinking about changing Transmission Fluid since it's overdue.

Replace PCV? EGR? Throttle Position Sensor?

 

NEW Items I have ready and waiting:

Complete Subaru Engine Gasket set (including the Half Moons)

Cylinder Head Bolts

Subaru Coolant

Spark Plugs

AC & Alt belts

How many miles do you have on the clock now? You may just wanna consider a new shortblock . .

 

Have you read the list of what needs to be done to the heads when they're off? You can't just replace the gasket and slap 'em back on. See page 9 of my rebuild thread.

 

Biggest favor you can do yourself in this situation is to install the ARP head studs. (ARP 260-4701, $180-isoverseash from Amazon)

 

PCV is always a good idea, don't worry about the TPS, and trust me, you won't wanna buy one anyway.

 

How stock are you? You at least have a catless UP, right? If not, that needs to be done. Not an option. Get a used OEM STi UP, or an aftermarket one, either is fine, as long as it's catless. No, it won't hurt your ability to pass emissions. It WILL hurt your turbo and potentially cost you thousands of dollars, so, spend the money.

 

I know it's only been 40k, but when you take the timing gear off, you replace it with new. Buy the Gates kit, TCK328. Get an OEM water pump, not the one from the kit. Get OEM thermostat while you're there, too.

 

When you said "cheap", did you honestly think there was something you could hit with a wrench and suddenly it'd be magically bright, shiny and new?

 

Don't waste your money on the Subaru brand coolant-- go down to Napa and get their regular old 50/50 premix. It's like $10/gal, compared to nearly $30 that Subaru wants for theirs.

 

What have you got for gaskets? You'll need all new exhaust gaskets, including donut and turbo gaskets. Speaking of, read up on how to check your turbo for shaft play. Now's a better time to replace your turbo while you've got everything out. If it hasn't been rebuilt or replaced in the last 40k, it's due.

 

See my Shopping List for ideas-

I see you've been running mobile1-- if you still are, stop. Use conventional if price is a concern, but, m1 doesn't contain enough zinc to adequately lubricate the journal bearings in the turbo, which can cause (sometimes) premature failure of the turbo, which is the number one cause of engine failure in these cars. Well, that, and, the catted UP. And the stock tune.

 

Are you doing the teardown yourself, too? Because you don't have the tools to take the cam gear bolts off. Unless you've already ordered them from Company23?

 

See here: http://www.company23.com/subaru/subarutools

 

You need the first two. Order them soon, otherwise it'll cost you an extra $67 to have them overnighted to you. Ask Boxkita about that. Auto zone doesn't rent these out, BTW.

 

I'll stop here and let you ask some questions. .

Thanks MrTris for your input.

 

First, my current engine is at 165k. I'd totally love a new shortblock, but unless I get financial donations to cover most of the price, it won't happen anytime soon.

 

Second, I have a very well-stocked garage and have all the tools I need...including the cam sprocket tools. And YES, I DO know what is involved in the rebuild process. This isn't my first time around the block

 

I was mainly asking about the little things that are often overlooked ... you know? Like, "if you have the engine out for (whatever reason), do this and that before the engine is reinstalled because it's easier and more feasible to do while it's out."

 

Oh and thanks MrTris for reminding me to check Turbo Shaft play!

What oil do you recommend Mr Tris?

What oil do you recommend Mr Tris?

 

probably Rotella t6, like every other forum recommends for our subies.

 

for the OP, i assume you have done the banjo bolt filters, if not, make sure you do those

probably Rotella t6, like every other forum recommends for our subies.

 

for the OP, i assume you have done the banjo bolt filters, if not, make sure you do those

 

Also yes.

Do an oil pickup and also do the front oil pump seal and rear main seal while you have it out. Look at the IDEA sticky up above for a couple of ideas for the oil pickup. I was at the Moroso booth at the PRI show on Thursday and they have a new, stronger pickup that fits the stock Subaru EJ25 pan and they're about half the cost of a Killer B.

Thanks, everyone, for the reminders!

 

Banjo bolts ... check

Rotella T6 ... check

 

I'm also going to drain and replace as much transmission fluid that I can since it's waaay overdue for that.

Replace the heater hoses and turbo oil return hose.

 

Read my click here link for ideas.

Replace the heater hoses and turbo oil return hose.

 

Read my click here link for ideas.

 

Heater hoses, really? Haven't heard of that one yet.. Why?

yeah...my heater hoses are a little squishy.

 

The thing is....I can't get the engine separated from the transmission! Even had a friend help today and the engine is still in. What am I missing...?

yeah...my heater hoses are a little squishy.

 

The thing is....I can't get the engine separated from the transmission! Even had a friend help today and the engine is still in. What am I missing...?

 

It takes ALOT of rocking, cursing, and prying to get it loose. What you're probably hung up on is the engine studs at the bottom. Over time, they can get kinda crusty and hold the two together. (That's not a bad thing, really!) Hit it with some PB Blaster, Brakekleen, spit some bacon grease on it. . Whatever you have handy.

 

Work the gaps as much as you can, top and bottom. If you've got hella gap on top, lower the trans and move the crane chains to the front of the engine and lift from there, so that it creates more gap on the bottom. Once you have some there, go back to jacking the trans again. Move the chains back to their original position and lift at it again.

 

It may take quite a few up-down-up-down and pulling it get it free. It's probably the hardest part of the whole job, other than putting it back in again.

 

You've undone the motor mounts, and the grounds on each side, too, right?

Have to ask, did you disconnect the flexplate from the torque converter?

 

If yes, you'll need to wedge a small pry bar inbetween the housing and work your way all around

Yes, I unbolted the mounts, grounds and every other bolt or nut I could find.

 

And Yes, I disconnected the flexplate from the torque converter.

 

It has to be stuck together. I had the engine raised enough for the studs to clear the mounts. Jack stand under the trans for support. I did spray some PB Blaster around the seam last night.

 

I've never had this much of a struggle to get an engine out of any vehicle. Oh well, no biggie. Guess I'll get some bacon grease and a pry bar and get to work! lol

 

Thanks you guys!

Heater hoses, really? Haven't heard of that one yet.. Why?

 

 

Cheap insurance, and they seem like a PITA to get when one goes and its 20F outside.

 

Remember mine is my DD going to VT most winter weekends to ski. The last thing I want is a problem this time of year.

Make sure to fab a bracket to hold the torque converter in place while separating...

There is a picture of one in the FSM. Would have saved F1 and I a few min back in August pulling my motor out.

Make sure to fab a bracket to hold the torque converter in place while separating...

There is a picture of one in the FSM. Would have saved F1 and I a few min back in August pulling my motor out.

 

 

 

^^^^ THIS. Mine partially came out during separation. Depending on # of miles you may want to pull torque converter and drain it while engine is out, as well as drain trans/pull pan and clean it.

I had already planned on draining the torque converter and trans. I also have a new trans fluid filter to install.

 

Good info though.

 

Thanks!!!

Update:

 

So many simple things holding up the rebuild process ..... waiting and waiting for parts ... orders received with missing items then waiting for them to show up ... frozen bolts ... cleaning things ... crazy long hours at my day job ... and of course Mr. Murphy, made a simple job into a major job!

 

The more the engine was disassembled, the more things I found that were in need of replacement. Cracked hoses, rusty water pipes and things are minor ... imagine my surprise when I removed the turbo and noticed that it was blown! Yep. Shaft play wasn't bad on it, but the inlet side turbine was destroyed! I don't have a clue what would chew up the inlet side of a turbo since the air filter should catch anything before it goes to the turbo, and I never had the intake hose off.

 

Now, imagine my surprise when I disassembled the entire engine to find no damage to anything. When I saw the turbo I thought "the engine is toast." But ... seriously, no damage to anything internal!

 

So...I ordered a new turbo and a bunch of other stuff that was questionable. The new water pump, new timing belt and tensioners, oil pump, invidia catless UP are on their way.

 

That's all for now.

I've heard that it's a bad idea to change trans fluid on a high mileage auto. That the clutch particles in fluid actually help the worn clutches grab.

Add oil cooler to the list, and who are you sending your turbo off to?

 

Find any pieces of the turbo in the inter cooler?

Have to ask, did you disconnect the flexplate from the torque converter?

 

If yes, you'll need to wedge a small pry bar inbetween the housing and work your way all around

 

The second time I had my engine out I noticed that there is actually a recessed area on the driver's side/top of either the trans bell housing or the engine block that I assume was put there to allow a flat-head in to pry the two apart. That's how I initially got mine apart.

Update:

 

So many simple things holding up the rebuild process ..... waiting and waiting for parts ... orders received with missing items then waiting for them to show up ... frozen bolts ... cleaning things ... crazy long hours at my day job ... and of course Mr. Murphy, made a simple job into a major job!

 

The more the engine was disassembled, the more things I found that were in need of replacement. Cracked hoses, rusty water pipes and things are minor ... imagine my surprise when I removed the turbo and noticed that it was blown! Yep. Shaft play wasn't bad on it, but the inlet side turbine was destroyed! I don't have a clue what would chew up the inlet side of a turbo since the air filter should catch anything before it goes to the turbo, and I never had the intake hose off.

 

Now, imagine my surprise when I disassembled the entire engine to find no damage to anything. When I saw the turbo I thought "the engine is toast." But ... seriously, no damage to anything internal!

 

So...I ordered a new turbo and a bunch of other stuff that was questionable. The new water pump, new timing belt and tensioners, oil pump, invidia catless UP are on their way.

 

That's all for now.

 

If your UP PIPE still had a cat-converter, then it's a good possibility it sucked some of that in. They are known to come apart after time.

 

Where'd you get your new turbo? I would seriously consider getting a custom build from John Peirce, especially if you ordered a new OEM. John takes an OEM carkas and makes a complete custom bolt on that blows the OEM away. Not only more performance, but more bullet-proof with billet wheel and lots of other goodies that will make you much happier. Hit him up.

 

You can see the details of the one he built for me as well as his contact info in my thread here:

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2005-outback-xt-rebuild-chronicles-233261p6.html?highlight=chronicles

BTW if your impeller suffered a lot of damage, be sure to check your oil for debris. If it is significant, you'll want to replace certain parts like the oil cooler.