Wagons beware - tailgate electricals

I decided to just replace the entire harness.

 

I chose to go with a new harness, but I think if you choose to fix all the wires in the loom it may be less time consuming. I just didn't trust the fix long term. I hope this harness is good for at least another 10 years!

 

I did that my first time round, but the same crappy wires were used. Bought me another 3 years, but in the end, had to re-do it again. Soldered them the second time. Hoping (fingers crossed) it will last me at least another 3-4 years .

I did that my first time round, but the same crappy wires were used. Bought me another 3 years, but in the end, had to re-do it again. Soldered them the second time. Hoping (fingers crossed) it will last me at least another 3-4 years .

 

How long is the harness? Could you make your own using better wire?

^ just cut and splice in new wires where its goes through the accordion .

So, now I suspect that the drivers side has a busted wire. I fixed the lights for the licence plate when I got the car. But now The hatch no longer locks and it's caught me off guard a couple times as I used the remote to unlock the tailgate and had the alarm trigger. Too stinking cold right now to go digging and fix. I'm pretty sure the drivers side has the locking mech wires. Anybody know for sure?

So, now I suspect that the drivers side has a busted wire. I fixed the lights for the licence plate when I got the car. But now The hatch no longer locks and it's caught me off guard a couple times as I used the remote to unlock the tailgate and had the alarm trigger. Too stinking cold right now to go digging and fix. I'm pretty sure the drivers side has the locking mech wires. Anybody know for sure?

 

 

all wiring goes through the harness on the passenger side including two connections on the hatch locking mechanism. I believe the drivers side is reserved for the radio & the washer fluid tube.

 

~Mark

How long is the harness? Could you make your own using better wire?

 

Maybe I should have clarified;

I replaced my first harness with a SUBARU factory harness. On the second harness they used the same crap wires that were in my original harness. Hence my original factory harness, and my second SUBARU factory harness both crapped out.

 

I then simply replaced all the wires that pass through the accordian with ones I soldered myself i.e. no more crap Subaru wiring

 

Sorry, I wasn't trying to confuse.

How long is the harness? Could you make your own using better wire?

 

yes, I think you could definitely create a better harness, by cutting and splicing in better wiring where the accordion boot is, as long as the connections for the new wire don't bend with the hatch, it would be far superior to what Subaru has engineered for this application.

Useful advice. Thanks LGT_King. I have had similar rear gate problems on my 2005 wagon. Rear gate always locks but unlocking is unpredictable and, curiously, works intermittently with the actuator lever up or down (it doesn't open, we flip the lever, then it works for a while before stopping, we flip it again....). I'll check the wiring, but obviously nothing is completely severed (yet). I'm just about to spend $100 (for new actuator + shipping to Canada) if the wiring looks OK.

2007 Legacy 2.5i wagon here. My trunk hadn't been locking for a year now but I was still able to arm the car, I then noticed that the sensor for when the trunk was closed was wonky. Found this thread, pulled the accordion elbow, opened up the tape and was able to find the 2 green wires had severed.

 

Added new wiring by soldering, everything works again.

 

Let's hope this all holds !

Another victim... rear wiper stopped working out of nowhere. Pulled the boot and found the light green wire completely broken and two others with cracked insulation.

 

Incidentally, this isn't my first rodeo on this type of failure, but NOT on my LGT Wagon. This exact issue occurred on my 1987 CRX Si I owned many years ago so to see it on another car wasn't a shocker.

 

I also submitted a complaint to NHTSA as suggested and just ordered a new wire harness from Chaplin Subaru in Washington. Incidentally, this is the exact dealership we purchased our 2011 Forester 5MT Premium from 4 years ago. Flew up there from LA and drove it back. Had an excellent experience with them so was happy to buy parts from them instead of my full price Subaru dealer a mile from my house.

I've never found Chaplin's parts prices to be anywhere close to competitive. Glad your experience is different...I guess...

I've never found Chaplin's parts prices to be anywhere close to competitive. Glad your experience is different...I guess...

 

I had a horrible experience purchasing a used car there a couple years back.

 

As for the buyer's inspection on the wagon, it was a great experience. Came in under what they quoted by over $100, I was to say the least.

I've bought 4 cars from there, no problems ever, it's just that their parts prices are at MSRP or above if they think that they can get away with it.

I popped out the accordions last week, took a quick peek, and looked at the wires under the insulation. All mine seemed fine. 2005.5 (i.e. late 2005) 5EAT model.

 

Of course, my antenna wire's got a break somewhere, but I don't have the time or the desire to replace that cable..

 

Update: today, rear wiper stopped working. Going by memory (doh!), I fixed the two newly-broken wires on the driver's side first, with no luck. Then, figuring maybe I had a brain cramp, went to the passenger's side, and fixed the one broken wire, which I think was the rear wiper power line. All I had time for before work. Rear wiper working again!! But 3-4 other wires now cracked, breaking soon.

 

Is 81812AG03B the only part we need? It's hard to tell from the various diagrams what 81812AG03A is...

 

Thanks to everyone - saved a lot of headaches..

Is 81812AG03B the only part we need? It's hard to tell from the various diagrams what 81812AG03A is...

 

Thanks to everyone - saved a lot of headaches..

 

I don't think it really matters. I personally wouldn't recommend replacing with a factory harness (Subaru has not improved the wires within it). I personally recommend re-soldering some better wires through the accordion section. Much better (and less expensive) alternative.

I don't think it really matters. I personally wouldn't recommend replacing with a factory harness (Subaru has not improved the wires within it). I personally recommend re-soldering some better wires through the accordion section. Much better (and less expensive) alternative.

 

I'm going to have to take apart a good chunk of the trim anyway, because a lot of the wires are cracked near the hole, so it's hard to get a hold of them just to strip off insulation and/or solder them. And I'm guessing that I need to fix them all, or one by one they'll wear out and need to be fixed. And I'd rather not be without rear wiper, reverse lights, etc until I get a chance to fix it.

 

 

I ordered the part for around $80 shipped from Fred Beans. I may end up fixing the old one eventually, but I'm worried that wire pieces other than the place where it actually broke have already suffered from fatigue and would break soon. Rather than disassemble the whole thing, solder up 8-10 wires, try to somehow fit that many larger wires through the accordion, etc... I think it'll be simpler just to replace with a factory harness. It's not like it wore out after 3 yr/20k miles. After 10 yr/110k miles, I'm ok with replacing a few parts - I expect it to now last as long as we keep the car.. (3-4 more years, 40-50k more miles).

 

Not saying that's the right thing for you, though..

Good point. My wires are still good after 10 years, but I don't lift the tailgate all that much. If you replace the harness, would you consider doing a walkthrough so the rest of us can benefit from your experience? $80 isn't too bad. Can you also get us the part number?

Good point. My wires are still good after 10 years, but I don't lift the tailgate all that much. If you replace the harness, would you consider doing a walkthrough so the rest of us can benefit from your experience? $80 isn't too bad. Can you also get us the part number?

 

I think the part number has already been mentioned in this thread: 81812AG03B. At least, that's what I ordered - will see if it's the right part

 

Part should arrive this week, and I'll tackle it next weekend. I'll try to remember to take lots of pictures.

Good luck and thank you. I hope the weather holds out for a comfortable job.

Pulled up the boots in my wagon today just to inspect everything, and the wires look good on mine.

 

Oddly, pushing unlock twice on my key fob doesn't unlock the hatch, but the hatch button itself works fine, and the door locks as it should.

Good luck and thank you. I hope the weather holds out for a comfortable job.

 

Thanks. Ideally, I'd be happy to be forced to postpone this for 8-10 weeks due to heavy rain, but.. weatherman says 75 next Saturday for NorCal..

I had a brainwave today, and I thought I should share!

 

Check out the properties of this stuff: http://sugru.com/about

 

After reading this, I immediately thought that this would be the PERFECT stuff to wrap each wire in the gate boot in!!! I have heard really great things about this stuff, so I am going to try it!

 

I will let you know how it goes, and if anyone else tries it, let us know as well!

 

Cheers,

Elf

I'm surprised this isn't advertised on TV.

Elf is still selling Shark Tank on the idea to get the funding. But he did get the website up and is spreading the word across the forums!

I had a brainwave today, and I thought I should share! Check out the properties of this stuff: http://sugru.com/about

 

After reading this, I immediately thought that this would be the PERFECT stuff to wrap each wire in the gate boot in!!! I have heard really great things about this stuff, so I am going to try it!

 

I will let you know how it goes, and if anyone else tries it, let us know as well!

 

Cheers,

Elf

 

I've also heard about sugru, and it seems pretty cool. However, as far as I can tell, the problem isn't so much the insulation in the gate, it's the copper wires themselves wearing out and snapping. In some cases, the insulation is still intact, and the wire inside is broken. Of course, once the wire goes, the insulation soon follows. This would just be "better insulation on your failed wires". YMMV, though..