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Need help on the tranaxle oil seals.....


subysouth

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I have done quite a bit of reading here and on NASIOC and I still am having some reservations which will make sense in a sec.

 

Background - I recently received my new to me 07 OBXT with a 5spd manual. The right front cv axle was beyond gone on arrival. I knew I was going to need to do some work so no biggie on swapping the axle, but in doing so I did realize I needed to change the axle seal too(my previous experience had been with the studded transaxles so usually the seal was not necessary unless leaking.) So I started reading here and NASIOC on the PN to use and there is a lot of, if not conflicting, confusing info. So I figured leave it to the local Subaru parts guy and I ordered both the left and right axle seals and I received as follows:

 

Marked as LH by the parts guys PN 806735290 in a sealed package and here are the pics:

 

 

http://imageshack.us/a/img203/9842/img01941.jpg

 

http://imageshack.us/a/img14/5845/img01931j.jpg

 

I hope its showing up in the pic through the bag but the inside surface of the seal is smooth.

 

 

 

Marked as RH by the parts guy PN 806735300 in an opened and resealed package which I fricking hate and here is a photo:

 

http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/1512/img01891e.jpg

 

The inside surface of the seal is directionally grooved.

 

I called 1stSubaru where I order my larger less time sensitive parts orders and they verified PNs and sides are correct but I am not comforted by the opened package for starters and more so the significant difference in the physical appearance of the seals themselves. Any guidance here would be greatly appreciated especially some assurance I have the correct RH seal for starters because my car is literally apart in my garage as we speak.

 

Thanks in advance

ss

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My fault - didn't like the fact that the seals were shot form different sides so I flipped the LH seal inside the bag and took a pic from that side and here's that pic:

 

http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/3460/img01951.jpg

 

The LH seal is also grooved. I was looking at a different inside surface that was smooth, this one is also directionally grooved and in the opposite direction. I'll leave it up in case someone else needs to look at a pic.

 

ss

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I believe the seals are different size's.

 

I can't view the pictures here at work.

 

Just pry the old ones out and use a big socket to seat/install the new seals. Just put in flush to a bit below the case, don't sink them all the way in.

 

Oh the top of the very first forum has a link to "opposed forces" the parts manual.

 

Here just in case.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/subaru-oem-parts-catalog-online-exploded-views-opposed-forces-130411.html

 

PM'ed you some great Vacation Pic's you might enjoy.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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Under no circumstances should you remove the cap that houses those seals.
[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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Added the direct links for the first two pics if someone else can use them. The seal is in and seems not be leaking - I sunk the main body of the seal flush with the chase surface. I almost got it fully in by hand, only had to tap it about the last 1/8" with a socket.

 

I'm gonna add a couple other bits of experience to the larger axle swap thread.

 

Yea BAC I am not messing with the diff indexing ring unless I absolutely have to.

 

ss

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Is impossible to replace a shaft without having the old seal leak on you? The last time I did the drivers side shaft the inner spring on the seal shelled out. This time on the pass shaft everything was great and I checked the seal visually and even ran my finger all the way around the inside, everything felt perfect but I definitely smelled gear oil when the wife got home last night and it left a fresh drip (no more than that) in the driveway... but there appears to be fresh leakage on the undercarriage.

 

I remember the drivers side really being a PITA just because it was hard to get to when you're flatbackin' it in the driveway. The passenger side "seemed" worse when I pulled the shaft out last Sunday. Is there any trick on the passenger side, or is it same same? Just shoehorn yourself underneath the car, ease it out with a big arse screwdriver (taking care not to scrape the housing etc.) then mash the replacement in by hand to start it and finish it up with a socket and or flat block of wood?

 

Sound about right?

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It is probably not impossible but considering the amount of work it takes to replace it and the expected lifespan of the cv axle, I think its generally a good idea to pop for the $7 seal each and every time you swap an axle. You might get lucky and get 2 lifespans out of the seal but considering the cost vs the labor required I'm buying new seals.

 

No trick I saw but I did run into that stuck then sheered circlip so that was a PITA. I started the axle coming out with a flat bar and slid out about 2" then caught - I mean really caught. On putting the axle back in I used the knuckle for leverage to seat the new axle ciclip into the transaxle.

 

I posted over on the boot replacement thread about my experiences in detail. You should really read that whole thread, its filled with great info on doing an axle swap even if you aren't doing a boot replacement.

 

ss

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Assuming it's not left over from the work, you need the axle seal for that side. I can't find them anywhere around here except the dealer. :(

 

Yea there is a MOOG gasket alluding to working on the XTs but its more expensive($12) than the OEM dealer option so going OEM here is really gonna be the best way without a doubt.

 

ss

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So which OEM part number did you use on the front right shaft?

 

Anyone know if these are the correct Rock Auto parts?

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1430733,parttype,10066

 

I can't say but I am glad you posted that, I didn't realize Rock Auto had the seals. Id sure take a close look at them before using them tho. If they look the same they'd prolly be good.

 

ss

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It is probably not impossible but considering the amount of work it takes to replace it and the expected lifespan of the cv axle, I think its generally a good idea to pop for the $7 seal each and every time you swap an axle. You might get lucky and get 2 lifespans out of the seal but considering the cost vs the labor required I'm buying new seals.

 

No trick I saw but I did run into that stuck then sheered circlip so that was a PITA. I started the axle coming out with a flat bar and slid out about 2" then caught - I mean really caught. On putting the axle back in I used the knuckle for leverage to seat the new axle ciclip into the transaxle.

 

I posted over on the boot replacement thread about my experiences in detail. You should really read that whole thread, its filled with great info on doing an axle swap even if you aren't doing a boot replacement.

 

ss

 

Been there, read that (I'm subscribed). I was in a funk and didn't want to screw with the freakin' seal on a Sunday afternoon, plus the MOOG part from Carquest was wrong. Too small and it just wasn't right. The factory one has the big flared lip on it. the MOOG from Carquest didn't, plus, it was the wrong diameter. Guess I'll pull it all back apart and do it over again this weekend. The boot on the ball joint was pretty screwed too so I'll tackle that while I have it apart I suppose. Yippee.

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I know I'm pretty good, ;) but I did not replace the drivers axle seal when I replaced the axle in 2010. It never leaked.

 

I know I have also done my share of axle replacements on Hondas and have not had a problem.

 

You just need to make sure your careful.

 

I seem to recall replceing one of the ball joint boots at one time too. I think my right one is held on with lock wire.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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Been there, read that (I'm subscribed). I was in a funk and didn't want to screw with the freakin' seal on a Sunday afternoon, plus the MOOG part from Carquest was wrong. Too small and it just wasn't right. The factory one has the big flared lip on it. the MOOG from Carquest didn't, plus, it was the wrong diameter. Guess I'll pull it all back apart and do it over again this weekend. The boot on the ball joint was pretty screwed too so I'll tackle that while I have it apart I suppose. Yippee.

 

King if you already have it back together and its not leaking I would not sweat it a bit. Only time I would replace the seal is if I am already in there or its leaking. If you're done just let it ride unless there is a leak.

 

ss

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Well that's just it, it MIGHT be leaking. The wifes car was a little smelly when she brought it home last night and I had her move it out of the way and there was a fresh drip on the driveway... one drop, that was it, so I'm not sure if it's just residual or what. I need jack it up and look it over real good, that and pressure wash the undercarriage.
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Well that's just it, it MIGHT be leaking. The wifes car was a little smelly when she brought it home last night and I had her move it out of the way and there was a fresh drip on the driveway... one drop, that was it, so I'm not sure if it's just residual or what. I need jack it up and look it over real good, that and pressure wash the undercarriage.

 

Damn that sounds like the typical leak you would see based on my reading. If the axle is correctly seated and the seal is bad it will weep. If the axle is not seated correctly it will leak pretty badly apparently.

 

Also I should have said, good info on the MOOG seal not being correct. Without the flange on the seal, it sounds like that seal is for the stubbed transaxles(that take the female cv axles.) BoozeRS05 if get the Rock Auto seals please post up and let us know if they are right.

 

ss

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lol, I know... tell me about it. It's definitely seated properly. Because I had to go through this exercise last time I was super careful when I installed the shaft this go around. We were doing the V's day thing yesterday so I'll have to check it tonight and see how much fun I'm going to be having this weekend.
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Well I'm not going to mess with the Rock Auto seal, and I'm just grabbing an OEM. Not worth the trouble.

 

In fact, I read through the axle replacement thread pretty well, but I wish someone would have mentioned early in the thread about replacing these seals if you're in there. Would be saving myself another $100 for my shop going back in to replace this damn seal :mad:

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Well I'm not going to mess with the Rock Auto seal, and I'm just grabbing an OEM. Not worth the trouble.

 

In fact, I read through the axle replacement thread pretty well, but I wish someone would have mentioned early in the thread about replacing these seals if you're in there. Would be saving myself another $100 for my shop going back in to replace this damn seal :mad:

 

Booze not exactly in the same boat but I kinda leaped then looked myself. I had the car apart before I came here and read up. In my case my car just sat in the garage for several days until the seal arrived in the mail. My nearest Subaru dealer is in Alabama.

 

Its great to be back in a Subaru tho, there is no brand community in my experience better than Subaru owners. I'll know to look first next time.

 

ss

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Sorry to hear about that guys. As luck would have it, I appear to be in the clear. I think everything that is burning off etc. under the car is residual from when the dealer did the other seal a few weeks ago (they jacked it when replacing the clutch) then I had the boot on the pass. side shell out. I haven't had any new drips in the driveway, and both sides of the gearbox are clean. Even took it to the car wash yesterday and pressure washed the under side so that I could get everything nice and clean under there and spot anything new. So far, nothing. Now if I could just figure out that rattle in the trunk lol...
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Luck was on my side today. I went to the dealership yesterday and grabbed both fr&fl seals just to be sure I had the right part number.

 

Just left the shop and I didn't notice it before, but both seals were leaking. My shop only charged me for one. Thanks for the thread :)

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  • 7 months later...

I just did my left side CV joint last night and found a small puddle of tranny fluid under the car this morning, so I'm going to have to redo everything. :(

 

What's the correct orientation on the oil seal? Flat side out, or flat side in?

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