Replacing a Clutch Slave Cylinder

Okay, I am posting this in response to this thread: http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=113174 because the problem described is exactly what I had, and this is how I fixed it.

 

So, let's get down to business. To replace the clutch slave cylinder you will need some dot 3 brake fluid (not a whole lot), a 14mm wrench or socket, and a 8mm wrench, preferably of the 6-sided variety to avoid stripping the bleeder. Oh, and also the new slave cylinder . You will also need an assistant. Just someone who can follow instructions and push the clutch pedal.

 

Be careful when you work with brake fluid, it can be bad to paint so don't let any of it get on a surface that you'd like to stay good-looking, or don't touch said surfaces when it's all over your hands.

 

 

 

1. The clutch slave cylinder is located right on top of the transmission. I've attached a picture of it. First, remove the line from the master cylinder, labeled as bolt (1). This will be a 14mm. Keep any crush washers, I think there were two on mine, note how they came off and make sure they go back on the same way in step four.

 

A bit of fluid will come out so keep a bucket or rag ready. It shouldn't be a lot. At this point avoid having anyone touch the clutch pedal or it will make a mess and waste fluid.

 

2. Next, remove the slave cylinder. There are two 14mm bolts labeled as bolts (2) in the picture.

 

3. Get the new one and stick it in. Shouldn't be too complicated, just put it in the same orientation the old one came out making sure the pin is in the groove on the fork properly. Tighten the 14mm bolts up snugly.

 

4. Put the line back in the way it came out, it should go like this: mounting surface, crush washer, banjo fitting, crush washer, bolt. Sorry I don't have a picture but this should be easy as long as you remember how the old one came off. Most manuals will say to use new washers but I didn't and have had 0 leakage... I guess if when it's all done you can't pin down a clutch fluid leak you can put new ones on.

 

5. Okay, time to bleed it. There's a few different ways that people bleed lines so I'll just tell you how I do it. First, get an assistant in the car and get a 8mm wrench on the bleeder valve, labeled (3) in the picture.

 

6. Have the assistant pump the pedal and hold it down. Use good verbal communication, yell "go" or something and that will be their cue to pump a few times then hold down, and then they will yell "down" when it's held down.

 

7. With the pedal in the "down" position, loosen the bleeder valve. (Loosening it opens the valve, tightening it closes the valve. Be careful not to over-torque this because it can damage the threads and cause leakage.) After a second or so, close the valve while there is still fluid and/or bubbles coming out. Obviously, some fluid will come out so have a rag or bucket ready.

 

8. Top off the clutch fluid reservoir with your brake fluid as needed. Make sure it never gets empty or else you have to do the bleeding all over again.

 

9. Repeat steps 7 and 8 until you no longer see bubbles coming out of the valve. Close up the valve and check all your fittings for leaks one last time, and you're done!

 

 

If the pedal feels spongy after this and is still not working properly, don't panic. Go ahead and bleed it again before you go replacing more parts like the master cylinder.

Excellent write up. Easy to follow. Thanks!

I'm lookin for anyone to take pix of therre engine. I want to figure out wha tis missin in therre. thanks

What area do you think things are missing from?

I'm not sure. Thats the problem. I bought this car from a dude that don;t know anythin about it. And I've been fixin it herre and therre. Subaru this year is hard to finfd parts for. Right now it putterin. So I'm lookin to see if there is a vacuum hose missing or sumthin that is makin it do that. I hav to change out the slave cylinder. I was wonderin if rebuildin it is a good thing to do.

If you're really strapped for cash you can rebuild it, but new ones are pretty damn cheap. And there's plenty of places to find parts for these cars, just gotta know where to look... Anything you need in particular?

 

Hold on just a minute I will upload some pics I took earlier today for you, dunno if they will be much help though cause I have a lot of non-stock things.

Here they are, don't mind my crappy wiring job....

 

If you need any help with anything else though go ahead and make a new thread, I can take some better pictures of vaccum line routing if you need them.

I can also upload images. However, like Knifey, my engine bay is not very stock. But, vacuum lines and such should be pretty much the same besides the "extra" attachments going to the turbo intake, BOV, etc...

Okay, I am posting this in response to this thread: http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=113174 because the problem described is exactly what I had, and this is how I fixed it.

 

So, let's get down to business. To replace the clutch slave cylinder you will need some dot 3 brake fluid (not a whole lot), a 14mm wrench or socket, and a 8mm wrench, preferably of the 6-sided variety to avoid stripping the bleeder. Oh, and also the new slave cylinder . You will also need an assistant. Just someone who can follow instructions and push the clutch pedal.

 

Be careful when you work with brake fluid, it can be bad to paint so don't let any of it get on a surface that you'd like to stay good-looking, or don't touch said surfaces when it's all over your hands.

 

 

 

1. The clutch slave cylinder is located right on top of the transmission. I've attached a picture of it. First, remove the line from the master cylinder, labeled as bolt (1). This will be a 14mm. Keep any crush washers, I think there were two on mine, note how they came off and make sure they go back on the same way in step four.

 

A bit of fluid will come out so keep a bucket or rag ready. It shouldn't be a lot. At this point avoid having anyone touch the clutch pedal or it will make a mess and waste fluid.

 

2. Next, remove the slave cylinder. There are two 14mm bolts labeled as bolts (2) in the picture.

 

3. Get the new one and stick it in. Shouldn't be too complicated, just put it in the same orientation the old one came out making sure the pin is in the groove on the fork properly. Tighten the 14mm bolts up snugly.

 

4. Put the line back in the way it came out, it should go like this: mounting surface, crush washer, banjo fitting, crush washer, bolt. Sorry I don't have a picture but this should be easy as long as you remember how the old one came off. Most manuals will say to use new washers but I didn't and have had 0 leakage... I guess if when it's all done you can't pin down a clutch fluid leak you can put new ones on.

 

5. Okay, time to bleed it. There's a few different ways that people bleed lines so I'll just tell you how I do it. First, get an assistant in the car and get a 8mm wrench on the bleeder valve, labeled (3) in the picture.

 

6. Have the assistant pump the pedal and hold it down. Use good verbal communication, yell "go" or something and that will be their cue to pump a few times then hold down, and then they will yell "down" when it's held down.

 

7. With the pedal in the "down" position, loosen the bleeder valve. (Loosening it opens the valve, tightening it closes the valve. Be careful not to over-torque this because it can damage the threads and cause leakage.) After a second or so, close the valve while there is still fluid and/or bubbles coming out. Obviously, some fluid will come out so have a rag or bucket ready.

 

8. Top off the clutch fluid reservoir with your brake fluid as needed. Make sure it never gets empty or else you have to do the bleeding all over again.

 

9. Repeat steps 7 and 8 until you no longer see bubbles coming out of the valve. Close up the valve and check all your fittings for leaks one last time, and you're done!

 

 

If the pedal feels spongy after this and is still not working properly, don't panic. Go ahead and bleed it again before you go replacing more parts like the master cylinder.

 

 

OH this is gold because I need to do mine when I get home next week, or at least when I take one of my vacations. Thank you 5 STARS and then some!

I had to register with this forum just so I could say thank you. This was a great post. I got the slave cylinder for my wife's 1997 Subaru Outback and was done with the job in less than 30 minutes thanks to your great directions. I'll stick around this forum since I have a 1997 Outback, a 2002 Forester, a code reader, and a disdain for paying mechanics.

Had to bump this to say thanks, KnifeyMcShanker! I am replacing the slave on my '99 Outback and this write up is sure to make life a lot easier.

Bumping to also say thanks, KnifeyMcShanker. I picked up an 05 Legacy GT limited about 3 weeks ago. Of course the CEL came on when I got it home. (Misfire in cylinder 3, changed spark plugs, CEL came back, took it to the dealer I bought it from, he did the coil pack, checked compression and everything checked out. It seemed to be the coil pack or so I thought...) Been driving great for 2 weeks and of course the CEL came on right after getting the car through DEQ... (Feels like a misfire again)

 

Anyway, sorry about the rant. Was going to take it in and the clutch pedal started sticking and I couldn't get the thing into gear. Doing the slave cylinder after work today.

 

Also curious on if I should do the master while I'm at it? I've heard a new slave could cause the master to go out?

 

Also my 1st post here on the forums. Been browsing here for over 2 months reading up and getting all educated.

on my 97' OBW (Not on my 99' OBW) there seems to be another Hydraulic Module between the Clutch Master Cylinder & Slave. Is It this some sort of check valve (It has it's own Bleeder screw) It on the Drivers side of the Bell Housing ?

 

Does anyone know what it's function is ?

 

Do I need to also bleed this as well, when replacing the Clutch Slave Cylinder ?

on my 97' OBW (Not on my 99' OBW) there seems to be another Hydraulic Module between the Clutch Master Cylinder & Slave. Is It this some sort of check valve (It has it's own Bleeder screw) It on the Drivers side of the Bell Housing ?

 

Does anyone know what it's function is ?

 

Do I need to also bleed this as well, when replacing the Clutch Slave Cylinder ?