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Last oil/filter change was 189k+. It's now at 195,3. 6,000 miles. My GF thinks this thing is like one of her old vintage Buicks (55 Special and 57 Roadmaster) The LGT is back from the body shop $3600. looks like new. I backed into it with my F-250. She told me the check engine and cruise lights have been going on and off for a month or two. I was just going through the Previous Owner's maintenance receipts. Weird stuff like diff fluids and manifold gask at 27k some oil changes at 3k others at 5k. Dealership coolant flush at 50k. Dealer Turbo at 103k ($1914.) Intake Gaskets again at 168k. ($450) I did another turbo at 189k. Radiator 191k The PO didn't leave the receipts for the Timing Belt.

Test drive; 3 miles up the road there is a decent grade. At 45 MPH the 5EAT downshifts and Turbo kicks in. I hear a high pitched SCREETCH. Turned around came home. Pulled the codes and cleared them. Pulled the turbo, both sides are solid. The CLOSEST BANJO BOLT to the turbo had a screen in it, but I couldn't tell if it was clogged. Double checked the other Banjo Bolts, and it looks like front Driver's side may be in the original state (due to location). I pulled out both OCVs and visually inspected, they looked OK and they both ohm'd at 7.3 I didn't run 12v through them. There is a tear on the SOFT RUBBER INBOX TUBE. I put it back together, let it warm up for a while, and revved it to 3500-4000 several times in Neutral and in gear up on the jacks. When decelerating quickly down to idle, I notice just a little roughness before the idle setting kicked in. OR should I take it on the road and run it to see what happens. I'm thinking a timing belt is in my future?

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305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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Mr. Capacity, thanks. I pulled the turbo out, and both sides had no play in any direction, BASED on THAT, My thoughts are that the turbo is still in spec. However, I am going to pull it again tonight just to put a heavier clamp on that lower pain in the butt hose.

 

I forgot to say, the old oil was lower than the safe zone on the stick.

 

I am more worried about the codes saying the timing was too advanced.

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You have cleaned the OCV, so the next step would be pull the front banjo filter and then flush to oil system. Or flush it first then pull the filter.

 

Something is keep oil from getting to the OCV's.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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You grind or cut off the raised part of the bolt even cutting into the hex. Use a 17mm ratcheting box wrench to back out the bolt.

 

HAMMERDOWN did a how to a while back. I think covertrussian has pictures in his thread too.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Too low oil level will cause those codes. From experience. Like someone else says: check your oil often, these cars use it.

 

Oh, like in my sig.

 

One other tip, is to make sure the batter terminals are clean, tight and I put grease around them to keep out moisture.

 

Here I did some looking,

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/remove-all-banjo-filters-222758.html

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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So how do you BACKOUT THE FRONT DRIVERS SIDE banjo bolt?

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/album.php?albumid=2011&pictureid=9733

 

The short answer is, when you do a timing belt job. Otherwise, you'll need to undo the timing, remove that side's cam gears (need the special tool) and then remove the rear timing cover to gain access to that bolt. I've found that ratcheting wrenches don't do a whole lot of good, unfortunately. Another one of those "easier said than done" things, like using a timing belt to hold the cam gears in place. It just doesn't pan out in the real world.

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yeah. well somehow a re inspection of the turbo has minor radial play and very little front and back play. Seemed solid before. Actually, before the wheel spun slowly, like a new bearing. Second time around, it spins freely. I'm hoping the oil pressure adds enough to keep it going until the timing belt change. I put it back together with a stronger clamp on the bottom hose, (Pain PAIN PAINNN!!!) New clamps, new nuts and new bolts, since I wore the old ones out. It's back together, I bet with better oil flow, since the oil is now FULL. I did attend to the turbo side banjo bolt, which did have a screen. I'll be collecting parts.. at 200k, I imagine there isn't anything that couldn't use a service or fluid change.
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That turbo on the 2006 LGT Limited Legacy sure is a pain. I drove it 100 miles today without the slightest noise, oil leak, smoke, steam, hesitation. The Turbo kicked in nicely, but I wasn't flooring it. I had at least a half dozen start cycles and no codes. The lower rubber hose on the underside of the turbo is the worst. when I took possession of the car, it was leaking oil from that hose, because the hose was split. I fixed that immediately. it was still leaking oil, and I traced it to the passenger side valve cover seals. That was a PAIN, AND IT's no wonder the PO dumped it. The TMIC was never put on correctly, because there was a permanent wrinkle in the rubber inlet. The same with the turbo inlet, it had a tear and a wrinkle. I was able to use a wider heavier duty clamp to make it air tight. like I said earlier, I replaced the gaskets in the down pipe as well as all new shiny nuts and bolts. I could not find the heat rated ones. In any event the LGT is her DD and she has a Miata for nice weather. in 11 years, oil, battery and tires on the Summer Miata. Someday I'll stick an LS1 in that Miata as a surprise.
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You get the correct nuts and bolts from the dealer parts counter guy's.

 

I'll bet the turbo inlet was torn when the turbo was reinstalled after it was removed to replace the return hose. That's why I bolt the turbo to the up pipe. You use the same bolts that hold the up pipe support bracket to the block, get those from the dealer.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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the turbo inlet was torn before the first time I took it apart.. But bolting the turbo to the up pipe? Isn't that the way it is? Unless you're saying to disconnect the up pipe and take the whole thing out. I'm thinking if I do this again, I want to pull the composite intake to get at the pipe and buy a new boot. (yeah I bet they sell that separately LOL)

 

After some additional reading I discovered the VF40 is not rebuildable unless the rebuilder has a harmonic balancer. So, if you're thinking about rebuilding your old turbo, Fuggetaboutit.

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