6MT Master Swap Thread

Yep you can run it. I recently had a problem with my DCCD and it drove fine without it.

 

With no controller, it is unlocked. Honestly I like it better that way anyhow unless there's snow or ice on the road... I unhooked my controller while searching for electrical gremlins, and just never bothered to hook it back up.

 

Thanks!

you may as well have the spec b transmission

 

I thought that one had a VC on the center diff?

 

Fully open you can dump the clutch and do burnouts.

see here

http://i.imgur.com/VPQv8LR.jpg

and here

 

http://i.imgur.com/WiF7jg8.jpg

 

Custom mount done by shop.

 

Have a manual Rom on mine and all going well so far.

Just has an overrun when changing gears, not exactly sure why....

 

Oh well, knew some fine tuning would be needed.

Overrun? What do you mean by over run?

Seems throttle has a small delay to closing and reducing revs. have a suspicion that it could be mechanical, lubricated the spindle that the pedal sensor is on, see ow that goes.

 

Holy Cow, Cruise control works after my 6MT conversion.

That Manual Rom is doing the trick.

Thumbs up throttlehappy!!

The stock throttle mapping on MT cars has the plate 'hang' for a few milliseconds after you release the pedal. Sudden throttle closure and accompanying deep vacuum causes a spike in emissions so their strategy I think is to chop the injectors first and then allow the throttle to snap shut a few ms later. It's one of the most common complaints I get from owners about the stock mapping.

The stock throttle mapping on MT cars has the plate 'hang' for a few milliseconds after you release the pedal. Sudden throttle closure and accompanying deep vacuum causes a spike in emissions so their strategy I think is to chop the injectors first and then allow the throttle to snap shut a few ms later. It's one of the most common complaints I get from owners about the stock mapping.

 

That must be it!!! Thanks

The stock throttle mapping on MT cars has the plate 'hang' for a few milliseconds after you release the pedal. Sudden throttle closure and accompanying deep vacuum causes a spike in emissions so their strategy I think is to chop the injectors first and then allow the throttle to snap shut a few ms later. It's one of the most common complaints I get from owners about the stock mapping.

 

That's fairly standard on most MT cars. Even cars with a throttle cable will have a mechanism to 'hang' the throttle a little, my old 01 Maxima did this.

When I was working in Italy years ago, a buddy of mine had a rental Renault wagon with a really pronounced "hang." I always made fun of him for it, because the car made it sound like he had no idea how to drive a stick. Until one day when I drove his car, and I realized it was just the car.

 

My rental was a Peugot 206. What a blast that little thing was, for a teeny FWD.

Well I guess I have an excuse to hoard parts for a future 6mt swap on an LGT wagon I don't even own yet thanks to this thread.

That's fairly standard on most MT cars. Even cars with a throttle cable will have a mechanism to 'hang' the throttle a little, my old 01 Maxima did this.

 

 

They are called dashpots at least by Toyota

They are called dashpots at least by Toyota

 

Slightly different idea. A dashpot is designed to slow the throttle plate from snapping closed and causing a stumble as it comes back to idle.

Hey All,

My GT wagon is going into Cobb Surgeline in a few weeks for a 6 speed swap before track season starts in March. I'm bringing them a complete swap out of an '08 Spec B. I'm having them crack the tranny open to check for anything amiss and install an OEM front LSD while they have it open. The R180 will get opened up and checked for spec as well. No plans for DCCD on this car.

 

Other than the typical transmission centric upgrades, (shifter bushings, tranny mount etc.) does anyone have thoughts on anything else that should be checked and/or upgraded while I'm doing the swap? Wouldn't mind stiffening up the frame with some bits but I'm thinking more on items I'm already paying labor for during the swap and those parts of the car they won't be tearing into.

 

Clutch suggestions? - Cobb likes to use the Exedy Stage 1 (HD version) for road racing cars that put down 350 to the wheels or less. My end goals won't go over this number down the road.

 

Glad to finally get this done, my 3 to 4 shift has been balky for two seasons now and I've never been particularly enamored with Subaru's 5 speed.

 

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated

Edited January 17, 2017 by shralp

Hey All,

My GT wagon is going into Cobb Surgeline in a few weeks for a 6 speed swap before track season starts in March. I'm bringing them a complete swap out of an '08 Spec B. I'm having them crack the tranny open to check for anything amiss and install an OEM front LSD while they have it open. The R180 will get opened up and checked for spec as well. No plans for DCCD on this car.

 

Other than the typical transmission centric upgrades, (shifter bushings, tranny mount etc.) does anyone have thoughts on anything else that should be checked and/or upgraded while I'm doing the swap? Wouldn't mind stiffening up the frame with some bits but I'm thinking more on items I'm already paying labor for during the swap and those parts of the car they won't be tearing into.

 

Clutch suggestions? - Cobb likes to use the Exedy Stage 1 (HD version) for road racing cars that put down 350 to the wheels or less. My end goals won't go over this number down the road.

 

Glad to finally get this done, my 3 to 4 shift has been balky for two seasons now and I've never been particularly enamored with Subaru's 5 speed.

 

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated

 

I mean if you want to upgrade the shift forks it won't hurt as PPG and Rallispec has products that fit a track cars needs. That is the main failure point I have seen on track cars.

 

I don't think I would even worry about the clutch if you are staying at your current power levels , I went with a twin plate because I am expecting to go E85 on my track car this year.

Good stuff to consider BarManBean, I have tossed around the idea of cooling for the tranny. Costing it out will probably sway me in one direction or another. The car really never sees sessions longer than 30 min so not sure it its worth the expense but we'll see what costs come in at. Plans are to keep spec B gearing at this point as they will work with my goals. Glad to have them take some time to poke around to see if anything needs to be a la carte replaced. Assuming the R180 is to spec I'll keep the torsen style LSD for now, if merely because its relatively maintenance free. Will do bushing and mount upgrades for sure.

 

Yup Gigs, definitely not worrying much about putting anything on too aggressive clutch wise. The one that came with it is junk so I'll need to replace it with something anyway. I did ask Surgeline about a twin plate and while they are highly recommended, the expense was more than I wanted, (or needed to pay).

 

Thanks guys for this and any further recommendations!

Edited January 18, 2017 by shralp

Um, I think you mean "Torsen", not "torsion."

haha damn auto correct

Good stuff the consider BarManBean, I have tossed around the idea of cooling for the tranny. Costing it out will probably sway me in one direction or another. The car really never sees sessions longer than 30 min so not sure it its worth the expense but we'll see what costs come in at.

 

Not sure how you cool the 2008+ Spec B and STI trans as they no longer have the oil pump in them. See this post as well as this post if you haven't already.

Not sure how you cool the 2008+ Spec B and STI trans as they no longer have the oil pump in them. See this post as well as this post if you haven't already.

 

The same way you cool the diff, with an external oil pump, cooler, and AN lines. But for 30 min sessions it's not worth it.

Yup that's what I figured Gator. The wagon won't ever be raced competitively with a sanctioning body so I figured tranny cooling wasn't worth it ( As much as I'd love to). I'll buy a race ready car when the time is right.

I have an incredibly stupid question (probably), why do we have Recipe A and B, is it so that the Final Drive remains the same as the 5MT in the Legacy GTs?

 

If you don't care about keeping the final drive the same can you get 08 STI 6spd, 08 STI rear diff, Spec-B axles, Spec-b/4eat driveshaft, assorted small parts and go?

I have an incredibly stupid question (probably), why do we have Recipe A and B, is it so that the Final Drive remains the same as the 5MT in the Legacy GTs?

 

If you don't care about keeping the final drive the same can you get 08 STI 6spd, 08 STI rear diff, Spec-B axles, Spec-b/4eat driveshaft, assorted small parts and go?

 

Go back and look at it again. One is the earlier 6 speed which had a different gear ratio than the later ones. Your rear diff has to match the transmission.

 

Has nothing to do with the 5 speed.

 

Although I will say some Subaru's with a 5 speed had an R160 rear diff with the correct gear ratio.

 

Your second line is the way to go.........."get 08 STI 6spd, 08 STI rear diff, Spec-B axles, Spec-b/4eat driveshaft, assorted small parts and go"

 

You need the spec b 6 speed driveshaft or the driveshaft out of a 4eat legacy or outback....Dont think a spec b was ever an auto

Edited January 18, 2017 by Scooby2.5

Thanks, the for some reason the recipes were confusing me. I didn't see why STI 6spd with same year matching rear-end wasn't listed as an option.

Is something like this a good option?

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/09-Subaru-Impreza-WRX-GR8-STi-EJ257-COMPLETE-MANUAL-TRANSMISSION-SWAP-DIFF-6SP-/112082960730?hash=item1a18aa415a:g:7sIAAOSwARZXo9eq&vxp=mtr

 

All the small parts + a bunch of random junk. Just need driveshaft+ rear axles on top of this right?