Damage to front diff where axle goes in, leaks onto exhaust

http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/jras312/media/Busted%20Diff%201_zpsd6zfcubg.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

 

Not sure how this happened, but a few months ago I noticed a burning smell and after investigating I found fluid leaking onto the exhaust manifold. I did put a new axle in last fall, but I really don't remember anything like this so I have no idea how it could have happened.

 

Any ideas on a remedy? Am I looking at replacing the whole diff housing just to fix that?

That's just the bearing preload cap. Easy to remove and replace. Here is the part number: 38342AA030

That's just the bearing preload cap. Easy to remove and replace. Here is the part number: 38342AA030

 

Thank you! Didn't even notice the seem so I assumed it was part of the casing. I'm assuming I don't have to worry about re-adjusting bearing preload upon reinstallation since this is just a cap right? Any tips on removal/installation?

 

EDIT: You happen to know the part number for the axle seal that goes in there? Looking under rock auto would it be the seals under "output shaft seal" category?

 

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,2002,legacy,2.5l+h4,1378784,transmission-automatic,output+shaft+seal,8636

If you're going to replace that part, you're going to need the O-ring (P/N 806984040) and the oil seal for the axle to bearing mating surface (P/N 806730032 for the passenger side, 806730031 for the drivers side)

 

For reference, here is the listing of parts and diagram inside that differential case in case there is more carnage you can't see.

 

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_21/train/differential_transmission/

 

You're not going to find these parts on Rockauto, too specialty for them to carry. Funny because Rockauto's motto is "All the parts you'll ever need" but I can't find any of the parts I need for my SVX or even some parts for my Subarus that I find I need to replace, like front lower control arm bushings for a BH Outback.

 

On a side note, special care needs to be taken when replacing those caps, or adjusting the preload on the carrier bearing. What you need to do is take exact measurements of how many turns it takes to remove the retainer. Clearly mark your starting location, a reference mark on the retainer, and the ending location using the reference mark on the retainer. Make sure the threads of the new retainer are exactly matched. For example: look at where the threads start, put your old retainer on top of the old and transfer the reference mark onto the new retainer. Start installing the retainer with the reference mark at the marked ending location and turn it the exact number of turns you counted during uninstallation and tighten it until it hits the beginning reference mark.

 

Without taking the transmission out and adjusting it with a dial gauge, there is no other way to do this without messing it up. Follow my directions and you'll do just fine. Many have done it this way I explained and have had no issues.

Great explanation, thank you. You happen to have any experience rebuilding the power steering pump? A couple of smaller things like this and rebuilding the power steering pump need to be done but I'm really trying to keep her in the best of mechanical condition as possible. Coming from doing the head gaskets TWICE, having to resurface the block the second time.

 

Any experience rebuilding the PS pump on this model?

Ya it's the same pump as the 2nd gen besides the remote reservoir. I rebuilt mine, bought the kit from RockAuto. It was relatively simple and took about an hour to do. You'll need a puller for the pump pulley to remove it so you can replace the shaft seal.

Welp, things are not looking good. Was working on replacing the bearing cap last night and while removing the axle it appears that the c-clip has come off the axle on the end that goes into the diff housing. So I was able to remove the axle without taking out the retaining pin. I thought it would be okay to re-install the axle without the c-clip there, but I did notice the axle was a little loose where it went into the housing.

 

I made sure to mark the starting and ending point while taking note of how many turns it took to come out until it got past the threads. Now while driving there is a whining sound that is linear in volume with speed, must be the axle. So I jacked the car up a little bit ago and the sucker is leaking much worse now, and the damp cap has cracked again.

 

Could it be as simple as just getting the c-clip for the end of the axle? Or am I looking at rebuilding the front diff? My options (funds) are severley limited right now. I'm thinking either get a used tranny (swap to manual or get another auto-whichever is cheaper), or rebuild.

The axle c-clip is crucial to holding that whole assembly together. That is the joint that moves laterally with the axle, thus, driving over bumps will cause it to ram the axle housing into the side of the transmission. That C-clip holds it all together so it's very possible that the axle caused damage to the bearing cap. Did you also remember to order the oil seal and o-ring with the cap? Those are "need to replace" items when you take that cap off.

 

Another thing, it sounds like something is missing or out of spec if you're getting a whining sound. Again, was the oil seal replaced? Go over it again and make sure, triple check you have the cap tightened appropriately. You can also try to tighten the cap one tooth, reattach the lock, and test drive again until the sound quits.

Well it's gone from a whining to a grinding sound, louder on deceleration. Looks like I might be learning how to rebuild the diff if I can salvage it at all. Just sucks because it's my one and only car.

 

EDIT: Yes I did replace both the big o-ring and the axle seal.

When I pull the transmission, will it be easier to pull the engine and trans out together? Or should I pull the engine out first, and then the trans? I found a used transmission in Omaha for 280, so I'm trying to decide if it would be worth a shot at rebuilding the diff, or just get a different trans altogether.

I would not say that it is the easiest way to do it both at the same time, but it is possible even with just one person, always more dangerous with only one person too. but when you need to get stuff done you got to get it done. just be careful.

 

if you do it one by one its just preference and availability of tools, i can't store a engine lift so i have to rent one if i pull the engine, so its usually pull the tranny. the engine comes out cake after that. just strait out no maneuvering and what not. never pulled engine first so i can't say, i've only done all at once or tranny then engine only.

 

its easier with the ass of your car in the air... face down, ass up, this is how we like to... tie our shoes... my jack goes to 24in or so and i maxed it out, so around there is good. i dont prefer to jack from the rear diff so i usually jack and stand both sides then drop the front

 

since you will be getting new group n mounts too;) use this technique to pull your half shafts. and keep the struts attached to the hub/spindle.

The transmission is pretty easy to pull with the engine in the car, you just need to get the car as high, and as safe, as possible on jack stands. It's literally 6 bolts and 2 nuts to remove bellhousing bolts, remove the starter, 3 bolts for the transmission mount, 4 bolts on the crossmember, remove the exhaust manifold and cat section at the joint, unbolt the drive shaft, remove the two front axles, a couple of lines and the linkage and done.

 

The engine, well, there's quite a few more steps involved, but I've never done both as one assembly.

can confirm you can get the transmission in and out with the motor in if you pull the driveshaft and shifter, and loosen up the lower control arms to swing the axles out of the way.

 

i did it on a car lift and it was still a major pain in the ass and wouldn't attempt it again that way if i didnt have a lift.