DIY Clutch Replacement Video

you need to be careful replacing the torx bolts with the hex head bolts.

 

The hex head bolts DO NOT work with the Spec LWFW, at least on the 05 models. There was not enough room to get a socket on the bolt. I don't have thin walled sockets, but there was hardly any room and I don't think they would fit either.

I got quoted 350 in labor to have a mechanic do mine. After 5 days working by myself, $100 in stall fees, and 3 stripped flywheel bolts I decided it was time to let someone else finish the job.

 

This is not for the faint of heart or anyone short on time.

I've changed the flywheel on a couple of Subies and if you don't have the bit straight you will strip the bolt. Good luck

The shop that replaced my stock clutch didn't have the Torx Plus (and I asked twice to make sure that they had the "Plus and was told they did) and stripped every one of the bolts off and had to drill them out. I went with the 06+WRX SMFW so I just got the hex bolts from FB at the same time that I got the rest of the ACT Street HD clutch parts from them.

Anyone know what flywheel works with the ClutchMaster 300 setup?

I have the stock '06+ wrx flywheel on mine.

Just got it done for $840 from a local tranny shop including the clutch kit/parts etc. 5 houras labor...which is approx 25% less time that'd take ye olde DRum :)also needed a new half shaft (borked cv boot) and two new half shaft seals since they're prone to leakage. Parts on the shaft and seals was $150 and they didn't charge me anything to put them in since everything was off anyways.

 

Not a bad deal, and the shop was real good to work with. I'd like to attempt this someday with air tools and a tranny jack...on a car I don't need to drive to work tomorrow .

 

DRum

So they had the Subaru adapters to pull off the differential end covers and replace the internal axle seals? Without it, the diff can get completely out of alignment.

OK, I've read all this thread, watched the video, & now have the trans seperated and the clutch out of the car. Thanks to all for this great info.

 

I'm replacing the FW & complete clutch assy. TorxPlus T50 arrives today; how do you hold the flywheel from turning w/out the Subaru tool?

 

As to trans/turbo clearance; has anyone judiciously filed away a small porting of the trans where it interferes, or maybe filed away enough to make a heavy chamfer to ease installation? The case seems plenty strong enough....

 

One of my CV axle seal springs came out; any tips on getting it back in correctly w/out pulling (likely damaging) the seal?

 

Thanks.

Edited October 17, 2011 by SkiDaddy
typo

Buy a new seal, pry the old one out with a screwdriver. Use a flat peiece of 2x4 to seat the new one.

You can keep the FW stationary using a flathead screwdriver.

 

I had a piece of metal wire sitting around and made a band which I looped around the pegs on the fw and the engine block.

 

I would not file down the turbo. It'll require some patience, but the trans will come out. A second set of eyes is a great asset.

I ended up using a breaker bar & socket on the crank pulley. I was worried some of the flywheel bolts were REALLY tight & might break the crank bolt loose, but it worked out OK. Some of them were tighter than 70 foot-pounds! The access holes for the flywheel bolts didn't line up, had to use a hammer & drift to shift the alignment slightly.

 

I wasn't going to grind the turbo, but the transmission bellhousing....

Great set of videos scruit; I have watched them many times. I am actually changing from a DMFW to a SMFW and it looks like the SMFW is shallower than the DMFW. Does anybody have any guidance as to what adjustments need to be made in the clutch travel after I install the clutch?

 

Also, I am a little worried about stripping out a FW bolt or breaking one off. I do have the Torx+50 bit, but is there anything that I can do to minimize the propensity for snapping off a bolt head or stripping one out?

 

One final question: in the shop manual that I have, it tells me that I need to find the "0" mark on the FW and the "0" mark on the PP and ensure that they are at least 120deg out of alignment. My PP doesn't seem to have one of these marks. How bad is it if these "0" marks are not lined up exactly?

 

I am new to the forum and would appreciate any information that anyone can provide on these questions. Hopefully, I'll be able to help others out on here in the future.

 

Thanks

-No adjustment is necessary.

 

-Have extra flywheel bolts. Be very careful taking them off. They are dry so they shouldn't seize, but they will be very tight. Even if you get them off you DO NOT want to put mangled T+50 bolts back on, because they will _never_ come off with that much torque. I almost messed one of them up, but luckily it came off. I could only get 4 WRX (4, WTF?) from one of the 5-6 local dealers in the area, so I picked the 4 best T+50 and mixed them with 4 new hex bolts. Good enough.

 

-The 0 marks are only for balance past the precision of the balancer. By not aligning them you can cancel out (vs adding) the partial imbalance of the parts. It is not a big deal if you can't find them, they are probably not there.

 

-flare wrench works great for stopping the flywheel, almost the same thing as the subaru ST.

As to trans/turbo clearance; has anyone judiciously filed away a small porting of the trans where it interferes, or maybe filed away enough to make a heavy chamfer to ease installation? The case seems plenty strong enough....

It's tight but I didn't see a problem. And I have/had a larger turbo in there. As long as you go straight in and out it should be fine. Worst case loosen the turbo mounts, no big deal.

 

 

One of my CV axle seal springs came out; any tips on getting it back in correctly w/out pulling (likely damaging) the seal?

 

Thanks.

Replace it. Do not **** with it. It's a $6 part.

I can understand your pain with the interference between the bellhousing and the turbo. IMO that's the worst part of the whole job. I wouldn't shy from putting a little radius on the bellhousing with a die grinder if it looks like that'll make it easier

Thanks for the answers, Deer Killer. I actually bought a new set of hex-head flywheel bolts. I've worked with the XZN/Ribe/Torx/Torx+ bolts before and and am not a fan. I think they're probably great for the assembly line in the factory, but not so great for R&R in an application.

 

By a quick of fate, I actually bought the crank-stop tool on ebay for 4.50.

torques on the pressure plate? tranny to engine? i cannot find them anyyyywhere! some help

Great Videos!

I just swapped out the FW, Clutch, and Pressure plate on my LGT two weeks ago.

 

Flywheel to crank = 52.8 ft-lbs

Pressure plate to flywheel torque = 11.8 ft-lbs.

Tranny to engine = 37 ft-lbs.

Thanks, I just had a light bulb the day I did mine and went and looked at the vacation pics

 

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Here are some pictures from my recent change out for reference. Thought it might help somebody down the line.....

Finally change mine out today. Excellent video reference. We didn't have to drop the exhaust though. It was actually a spare hand lol. The hardest part was splitting the motor and tranny( 1hr ) and lining it back together. Release bearing seems to be almost seized up with hardly any movement. All else is good. About 7 hrs in the driveway with a buddy. Never again. Well hopefully.

Did mine, worked at a snails pace. 16 hrs later it's done. Great video!

You have a wonderful voice. You should do radio...or books on tape. Awesome walk through.

 

I can't believe you replaced the clutch in 12 minutes!

 

he kind of reminds me of that wicked nice guy on tv in the 80's who was a painter and had a soothing voice and used to bang out paintings of mountains and stuff like it was nothing. he made it look so easy and fun! the guy who did this clutch video has probably educated milllions of lgt owners lol

"Im gonna put a happy little bush right over here...."