Clearing up all the oil info....

The reason for using a given oil filter on are subbie's is because of certain ones(low psi) causing the bango to clog and blow the turbo if my understanding is right?

So if there's a sell on a filter... I'm sure it wont hurt since it will only be on the car for 3k-4k miles?

But thats not something I would personally do just to save $2

Also I know it's covered in other threads. but en light of the recent link http://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

I'd like to hear from someone about why mobil 1 might not be recommended over say T6 or motul? And

Was it because of a blackstone test result? if so post a link to the result so we can compare the mileage on the tested oil and factor in psi rating from 540ratblog

I just bought a completely stock and factory serviced '05 OB XT 180k.

I need to change the oil so for now im going to be using Mobil 1 5w-30 w/mazda filter.

I see no reason from my research to use 40w except to cut down on engine noise...

Sidenote.... for the most part Any oil can be used in your car and APPEAR to be safe if your changing it every 3k, so why skimp on a few bucks or try something crazy like T6 :O some of you guys got balls

There have been blackstone labs shared in this thread, do the reading. Also understand that subaru does not recommend the use of synthetic oil in their engines until the 2012-2015 years. Some bad reviews of mobile one.

The weight of the oil has to do with thd climate you are in and the abuse you are putting your car through. Refer to your owners manual, thickest recommended is 20w50

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2

Oh and about Rotella, the labs are shared in this thread as well

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2

For once, Canadians get something that is not in the US yet: Rotella T6 in a 0W-40 with an API-SN rating. I saw it recently in a Canadian Tire store and it looks like I may be making the switch as soon as the cars (a 2001 Miata and a 2009 Legacy wagon) finish digesting the two fresh jugs of Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 in my garage.

I used to run Mobil 1 5W-30 in the Miata but it seemed to be a little too thin for its taste and Mobil 1 is near the low viscosity limit for the oil.

Ummm... M1 is not the bees knees to many here. Shell Rotella T6 is the most suggested 5-40 synthetic. Also the bypass valve pressue is high on the subaru filter and so should any replacment. There is a larger filter with 23psi bypass vlave from Mazda that fits as well. Wixs has one and I think Nappa gold (wix) aside from stock are what you should be using for filter.

I'm referring to the M1 oil filter, not the oil. Do filters list the pressure they can handle? The only info I found for the one I use when doing a search on Amazon was "Withstands nine times normal system operating pressure, for exceptional protection up to 615 pascals per square inch", whatever a pascal is...

There are a bunch of opinions, understandably, about which oil and filter is best and I'm guessing there's no single right answer. I just want to make sure to avoid a bad decision so that's why I was wondering if taking advantage of a sale and using a Bosch or K&N is fine. I'm guessing yes as I'd be very surprised if a new brand name filter (and oil) these days caused problems especially swapping out every 3,750 miles but that's what these forums are for - to share notes about potential problems and products that work especially well.

I'm going to ask what I'm sure is a dumb question, but better safe than sorry since I don't know beans about oil filter specs. Higher numbers for bypass valve pressure, burst pressure, and flow rate are better, yes? I've been using the Mobil M1 oil filter but after reading that a number of people prefer Wix filters, I went to O'Reilly's and got the specs. Not only is the Wix filter cheaper, but it rates higher for bypass valve pressure and flow rate (assuming that bigger numbers are indeed better).

And after reading this posted link, I'll be switching from Castrol Edge w/Syntec to Mobil 1 5W30:

http://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

When pressure increases you do not want it to be unfiltered. Cold starts and high rpms. Ect. So yes, higher bypass pressure.

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2

You can get a used oil analysis through a company like blackstone. They will help you determine whether your oil is working for your particular engine.

thanks for your prompt reply....unfortunately in my country(Kenya), we dont have such companies..

I took a look at the oil filter today and it seems very tiny for what it does. My understanding is that the 2009 can use the RX-8 filter and the same one is listed for the 5th generation Legacy under Mobil 1 filters. There is room for the filter to grow in length but not in diameter and this appears to be the difference between them. Am I right in saying that the 5th gen Legacy filter would be a better choice? It would be surrounded by the heat shield for the exhaust header but it would not touch. The M1 filter listed for the 4th gen is the M-108 and the fifth gen and RX-8 both use the M-110. I am (over)due for an oil change and intend to do it next week.

It seems to be the same as my Miata that benefits from using the Mazda Millenia filter.

I use the high mileage dino oil and change every 5k miles. I prefer the high mileage oil for the extra addatives for high mileage dirty engines.

Have 207,XXX miles on my 05 and still going strong.

that being said, if I had a forced induction engine I would use ONLY synthetic

Just one question and forgive me if I missed the answer. In a post above but I have herd people say to go with a oil weight like the recommended 5-30w or go with a 0-30/0-40 to make sure the oil flows good enough though the turbo oil lines and journal bearing in the housing on the turbo but there are also people that swear they run better on a thicker oil like 10-30w and some thicker

So what weights for a 2008 legacy GT lim 2.5 turbo should be ok and what weights should be avoided to make sure I have good enough oil flow for lubrication in the turbo and to all the bearings I live in Bellingham Washington it doesn't get to hot here and gets cold but not terribly cold

It depends on average temperature and driving style. The 5w40 for example is a thicker oil for people that are using a more severe driving style. 0w30 would be ideal in the dead of winter 0° or 20 below. But if your not sure then 5w30 winter and 10w30 summer. Read your owners manual for more specific oil viscosity guides. Most ej series motors could run straight 40 or 20w50 it just depends if you were in the desert or frozen tundra.

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2

Most folks here are running the 5w/40w due to the 30w dropping in viscosity in between change intervals down to a 20w ish.

It would have to be very cold all the time to justify using a 0w anything.

Most folks here are running the 5w/40w due to the 30w dropping in viscosity in between change intervals down to a 20w ish.

 

It would have to be very cold all the time to justify using a 0w anything.

:spin:

i think the oil heats up fast enough that the 0w in the warmer months won't be too thin, where it will help in the colder months.

i used to run M1 0w40 in the winter time and could tell a difference when firing up and during warmup. for any M1 hater, I had it tested twice (once on a 4k+ OCI) and it held up very well. I think the results are posted in this thread somewhere. never tried the 5w30 stuff though.

This is the standard viscosity chart:

http://image.kitcarmag.com/f/9442128+w750+st0/p78860_image_large.jpg

This shows that there is not much difference between the specs for 0W-XX and 5W-XX where the units are centipoise and centistoke. As you can see, the hot viscosity is far less than the cold viscosity so going to a 0W-XX from a 5W-XX grade helps the oil reach all parts of the engine quickly but never causes the oil to be too thin unless the oil degrades to the point where the hot viscosity declines as was indicated by kzr750r1. The only known issue with 0W-XX oils is there are sometimes "non-linear usage events" where an engine that has had little or no consumption of oil for several thousand miles will suddenly chug down a quart in 500 miles then go back to low consumption for several thousand more miles. It is suspected that this occurs when ring gaps (which are slowly rotating unless the rings are stuck) line up and oil goes through. Note that there are no minimum viscosities in the low temperature tests, but the requirements for 0W-XX are stringent enough that only synthetics meet them.

The only known issue with 0W-XX oils is there are sometimes "non-linear usage events" where an engine that has had little or no consumption of oil for several thousand miles will suddenly chug down a quart in 500 miles then go back to low consumption for several thousand more miles. It is suspected that this occurs when ring gaps (which are slowly rotating unless the rings are stuck) line up and oil goes through. Note that there are no minimum viscosities in the low temperature tests, but the requirements for 0W-XX are stringent enough that only synthetics meet them.

This is way you should check you oil at a min. once a week. When a car is "New to You" or the motor as been replaced or rebuilt. Check you oil level every time you fill the tank. Until you get to know your car.