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what do you think about this sound system?


ivonr

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2 jl 12 inch 300 watt rms subs and an alpine 500 watt amplifier. In a non ported box. Also getting the trunk to rear deck bass port. This is for my 2008 legacy 2.5 I. The shop that is doing all the work is charging me a total of 825 dollars after tax. Do you think I should also get door speakers and a head unit? Or can I go without it? Am I being overcharged? I know I should probably do this myself but I do not have the tools or the time.
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these cars have shitty acoustics and it is very tough to make them sound any good at all. I spent a lot of time and money trying to make mine sound good and didn't really get anywhere.

 

my guess is that you are young and not very mechanically inclined. if you want to throw your money away at trunk bumpers then go right ahead, but I wouldnt.

"Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left."
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Assuming they are doing all the work, custom box and wiring, the price isn't bad. If you have manual climate controls, get a new HU.. otherwise you're sol. Definitely replace the door speakers.. they suck.

 

Agreed the acoustics aren't great.. and if you're running 2 12"s, I'd invest in some dyna-mat :)

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You can swap in a new head unit easliy in a 2.5i. Do that. Run the new door speakers (which you should get) off the head unit amp if you want to save a little money. It won't sound as good as a dedicated 2nd amp for the door speakers but hey, whatever is in your budget is yours to decide.

 

I think two 12's is overkill in today's stereo world, I'd go a single powerful 12 in a sealed box and save some trunk space.

 

Or get one sub and a 4 channel amp and run the whole system off that amp including the new door speakers.

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My only problem with new door speakers is that it would render the stock tweeters useless. Are the stock door speakers and tweeters really that bad? Including door speakers in the install would bring the price over 1000 dollars
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Small price to pay....

 

Get some good separates, and put the new tweeter in the OEM tweeter location. Problem solved. Don't cheap out and buy some cheap coax speakers and bring the soundstage completely down to your ankles.

 

Good separates can be had for, what, 200 bucks down in the States?

 

But to answer your question, no the stock speakers and tweeters aren't terrible... they are great sounding to some, and awful to others.

 

Do what you think is best for you and your budget.

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Get some good separates, and put the new tweeter in the OEM tweeter location. Problem solved.

 

:nono:

 

If you are using amplified component speakers, or separates, don't put then in the stock location. I have made this mistake and regret it. I recommend putting them closer towards the bottom of the door near the woofer, or just getting coaxial speakers.

 

The high frequency sound in my car, even when adjusted, is simply too much when playing music loud. The stock location is too close to the level of your head. Mounting them lower will take that away.

 

Just get coaxials if you must upgrade your door speakers.

"Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left."
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I also recommend getting 2 15" speakers with a 2000 watt amp to enjoy some of dat deep southern bass!

 

GL with your stereo build. PM me if you want more advice.

"Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left."
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I also recommend getting 2 15" speakers with a 2000 watt amp to enjoy some of dat deep southern bass!

 

GL with your stereo build. PM me if you want more advice.

 

Haha I wish I could I love some old school lil john through some 15's

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Haha I wish I could I love some old school lil john through some 15's
There's music from Lil John they refer to as "Old School" now :confused: I'm getting old!

 

I agree with Paintpollz - you do not want to use the factory tweeter location for separates if possible. I've had a bridge built before to locate a separate tweeter as a coax - with how close that location behind the mirror is you will be overpowered by the highs. Due to distance the Left will be much more prominent than the right side for the driver and vice versa for the passenger. It's truly a horrible placement for tweeters.

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It was so much simpler in my old car. I had an acura legend coupe with 2 12's, a 700w amp and 6x9's. Even with all the work done and a head unit it only cost $1000...and it got loud!
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Assuming they are doing all the work, custom box and wiring, the price isn't bad. If you have manual climate controls, get a new HU.. otherwise you're sol. Definitely replace the door speakers.. they suck.

 

Agreed the acoustics aren't great.. and if you're running 2 12"s, I'd invest in some dyna-mat :)

 

 

how much does dyna-mat run for an '08 2.5i?

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If you just want bass, go on craigslist and find someone's old sub and amp. I run a little 200 watt amp into a 10 inch alpine type-s. It was $50 used. Install it yourself, don't waste money on a 'pro' install (when they're probably just kids with a wage). Then go to home depot, get some quick roof, tape a picture of chip foose on the package and install some dyna mat.
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It was so much simpler in my old car. I had an acura legend coupe with 2 12's, a 700w amp and 6x9's. Even with all the work done and a head unit it only cost $1000...and it got loud!

 

you're tellin me!

 

The best sound system I ever heard consisted of 2 amplified 6x9 elemental designs with a 12" w3 in the back. AND the car was a saturn.

"Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left."
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Not to thread-jack, but I have a spare jl audio 12 in a box with a 250 watt alpine amp. What's the cheapest, fastest way to integrate it into my 2008 2.5 limited? I was thinking tying into the rear door speakers.

 

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

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While I personally don't think there is anything hugely wrong with a great pair of coaxs in the doors (point-sourcing, etc.), I agree 100% about a single 12, in an appropriate enclosure for the application, fed 300 - 500W being more than enough. IMO and IME any more than that is for everyone outside the car :)
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well guys and gals, the system turned out pretty good. two things i agree with now are that the car has bad acoustics and two 12's are overkill. just a bit of overkill. despite that, i am happy with the work and will keep the stock door speakers until i blow them or get dissatisfied with them.

 

oh and the trunk-to-rear-deck bass port pushes the air around inside the car and really adds to the bass experience :)

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You should provide some pics.

 

As for the OEM door speakers, I throw at each one of them about 75W RMS and two years later, they still work perfect (300W RMS amp for mids/high). Note that I have a high pass filter on them. The 15 takes care of the bass :lol:.

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well guys and gals, the system turned out pretty good. two things i agree with now are that the car has bad acoustics and two 12's are overkill. just a bit of overkill. despite that, i am happy with the work and will keep the stock door speakers until i blow them or get dissatisfied with them.

 

oh and the trunk-to-rear-deck bass port pushes the air around inside the car and really adds to the bass experience :)

 

good to hear. the sound deadoning that I used made the acoustics only marginally better. Good to hear you didnt spend as much time and money as I did.

"Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left."
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everyone says to change the HU but I wouldnt. If you are going to put in new door speakers, put in an interior amp. Run a LOC to the 4 channel amp and use the output to go to your sub amp. I would take out the baffle plate in the rear deck lid and put in some kind of speaker grill so you get the sound from the trunk in the cabin so you dont have to open the ski door or fold down the seats. I would go with a component set in the front and I also put one in the rear of mine. I think the acoustics sound pretty good. Dynamat comes by the sheet and gets very expensive. A trunk kit is prob $199 and up.
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