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Just bought a 2008 Suby Legacy GT- Some beginner ideas to sup it up


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Just bought a 2008 Subaru Legacy GT with 36k miles for $20,500. Good deal or no? but more importantly what are some cheap additons I can do for my car. I got about $400 right now to spend to sup it up a lil bit. I'm already thinking about painting my stock rims with duplicolor wheel paint. Any ideas guys?
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I say sway bars or a possible cat back exhaust if you can spend a few more $. If $400 is your limit do NOT dupicolor paint your wheels they will start chipping in a few months. If you want to keep the wheels for a while look into getting them powder coated.
I was 0.

 

 

 

And I'm still a zero.

 

:lol:

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LED lights: ($40) http://yourledshop.com/shop/article_26.001/2000%2B-Subaru-Legacy_-Outback-(All-Models).html?shop_param=cid%3D2%26aid%3D26.001%26

 

Don't put any of those LED lights outside the car, or they will burn out.

 

Subaru Momo Shifter: (70-80$) http://www.google.com/products?q=Subaru+Legacy+Momo+Shifter&aq=f

 

Momo shifter is great for automatic, since you don't have to deal with it much in cold or hot weather.

 

If you have a nav system: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Kenwood-KNA-VC300-Microphone-Talk-Switch-/360246626879?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Car_Audio_Video&hash=item53e05f4a3f#ht_738wt_908

 

Pretty worth it for the price.

 

You can also install a stock subwoofer, specifically designed for our cars, goes under the seat.

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Just bought a 2008 Subaru Legacy GT with 36k miles for $20,500. Good deal or no? but more importantly what are some cheap additons I can do for my car. I got about $400 right now to spend to sup it up a lil bit. I'm already thinking about painting my stock rims with duplicolor wheel paint. Any ideas guys?

 

Welcome to the world of banjo bolt filter and soap on intercooler!!

 

Oh, did I mention soap on intercooler :D

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Welcome to the world of banjo bolt filter and soap on intercooler!!

 

Oh, did I mention soap on intercooler :D

 

:lol: I think it's also important to point out how fast Subaru's go through blinker fluid. Make sure to buy plenty. ;)

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:lol: I think it's also important to point out how fast Subaru's go through blinker fluid. Make sure to buy plenty. ;)

 

Turbo spins backward, garage rubber front lip, black out head light, DRL disable... all kind of crazy stuff and yes, I did mention NO SOAP ON INTERCOOLER :eek::eek::eek::eek:

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oem sub, makes a big improvement to the sound system... if your are an audiophile it won't be enough, but I thought it added just enough oomph and leveled out the speakers on the lows.
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Sup it up? Haha ok then.

 

A lot of different routes you can go

Sway bars and a stage 1 tune

Downpipe and a stage 2 tune

 

The list go's on. You need to ask your self do you want more power, better handling, or do you want to upgrade exterior/interior parts to look good?

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Once your cars handles well, go for brakes.

 

Once your car stops well, then go for power.

 

Always make sure your car out-handles and out-brakes the current power your car has before you do anything to "sup" it up.

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we dont have the best breaks in the world but any basic stage 1 or stage 2 tune+supporting mods wont make nearly enough power to need a break upgrade.

 

To be honest I rarely use my brakes, if you know how to drive a MT right most of your "slowing down" should be done by downshifting at the right times/RPM. i was always taught this to preserve my brakes

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^preserve your brakes at the cost of clutch and transmission repair?

 

On top of that you get people who don't realize that the person in front of them is slowing down without seeing the brake lights. I won't go into detail but humans are terrible at judging changes in speed from behind.

 

But that isn't the OPs original question. Go ahead and search and you'll find what you need to know.

It's cool; I'm with the band
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^no sir if you know how to drive a manual car that will never happen...Ive had 4 manual cars driven to usually 70-100k on the stock clutch which none of them ever needed a clutch or transmission replacement.. like i said if you know what speed/rpm to downshift at you will do no harm to your trans and or clutch

 

 

my lgt on the other hand I bought with 78k and the previous owner wore out the clutch pretty bad, but since the day I got it I have done my usual downshifting to slow down, and it hasn't slipped on me once. still holds stage 2 power like a champ.

 

also if the person behind me hits me because they couldn't tell I was slowing down, they should have their license revoked anyways because they were probably ******* texting and driving like 95% of the ppl I see on my commute. All in all if i get hit, thats what I pay my insurance company for right?

 

I do agree though brakes are something that need to be in good working order obviously, but if they are not worn out or if you dont track/autox dont bother upgrading until you need them.

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I have Hawk HPS pads in stock calipers on new OEM rotors. My car brakes well enough at stage 2.

 

tjbev is absolutely correct. Downshifting to reduce speed will not cause premature transmission/clutch failure if you know how to drive a MT (rev-matching, clutch modulation, etc). Brakes on a manual car should always last at least 1/3 longer than on a car with an automatic transmission. Compression braking has been around since the dawn of the automobile!!!

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Any DP with a stock exhaust will pretty much be the same sound you have now. The DP add very little noise. Actually even a mid and y won't add much drone/noise/rumble until you change cans. I ran a Perrin HF catted dp with a perrin mid & y for a while and you couldn't really notice the difference in terms of noise. Performance, that's another story.
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Any DP with a stock exhaust will pretty much be the same sound you have now. The DP add very little noise. Actually even a mid and y won't add much drone/noise/rumble until you change cans. I ran a Perrin HF catted dp with a perrin mid & y for a while and you couldn't really notice the difference in terms of noise. Performance, that's another story.

 

 

Thanks. Thats exactly what I wanted to hear!

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I used to think engine braking was a good idea until I "learnt" better. Brake pads are cheap relative to the cost of engine/transmission repair. You don't get any points at the end of the car's life for squeaking out 100K miles on OEM pads. But you do get points for not having beat the snot out of the car's drivetrain. Yeah, engine braking isn't all bad, and it depends somewhat on where you have to drive. Downtown/stop and go traffic... brakes are useful.

 

I had some lessons this past weekend, though, and one of our drills as to drive around the track without using your brakes at all. In an appropriate environment (e.g. controlled track setting), it was a great exercise.

 

I think the best advice I received was, "shift like the parts are made of glass, nice and smooth, and your drivetrain will love you back (or was it in the back, IDK))." Failure to properly modulate can be an expensive proposition.

 

To the OP, you can help reduce the noise through some added sound proofing and wrapping the DP if you go with one. I've got the Megan CBE with a Cobb catted downpipe. There is no mistaking the car isn't stock. It is louder than stock by a bunch, but the sound is fantastic. But, sometimes I think it's too loud... like when the mother in-law is in the back seat and I'm driving in a confined city street where the exhaust echoes off the buildings.

 

Many folks have stuck with the stock cans and swapped other parts around and seem to be happy with that setup. It'll come with a compromise, of course, but that's the nature of custom tuning.

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