2.5GT Turbo Oil Supply Banjo Bolt Filter Removal

I finally took this thing out. Almost nothing on it but that is due to my bypass filter. 60k miles on the car.

For the record, I inspected my filter at about 50K miles and found absolutely nothing in it.

 

I've always run AMSOIL synthetic 5W-30, changed every 5-6K miles.

 

Also for the record, this was a huge pain in the ass. I had to use a 4-foot breaker bar to get the bracket bolts off. Also dropped the copper washer that goes between the feed line and the block -- had to drop the plastic undertray to get it.

Yes, breaker bar and PB Blast needed for THAT bolt. Shop hint: use a loop of dental floss or thread through the copper washer to keep it from falling down into the depths. Tie the other end of the loop to your gloved finger on your right hand. Suspend the copper washer into the cavity, and then start the banjo bolt through with your left hand. When the banjo bolt is past the copper washer and the threads have started to take, break the loop and pull the thread or floss through. Saves much aggravation and #%&&!@. Somewhere on here there is an excellent pictorial of "how to do". Saved me lots of time and frustration.

Ok wow...I've read this whole thread... Incredible data... Good work for those that contributed pics and experience.

 

Anyway, I'll be doing this with my up-pipe install, but has anyone tried to do this while UNDER the car? Is it any easier?

With the up pipe out a blind gorilla (with swollen thumbs even) should be able to do this in about 2 minutes...lol

Just removed mine. What a friggin pain.

Shop hint: use a loop of dental floss or thread through the copper washer to keep it from falling down into the depths.

 

Indeed, I did use this method for reinstalling the washer, and it worked well.

 

I actually dropped the washer (between the fitting and the block) when I removed the banjo bolt. Anybody got any suggestions on how to keep it from falling out when you remove the bolt? I wasn't able to get my hand in there to catch it.

why would you worry about the old washers dropping to the ground? they should be replaced with new ones when the bolt is put in. the copper washers are designed to crush while sealing. they are not the same when old unless you go through the trouble of anealing them. even then, why risk a leak over $0.50 after going through the trouble of swapping out the bolt.

why would you worry about the old washers dropping to the ground? they should be replaced with new ones when the bolt is put in.

 

True, but if they are in good condition (i.e. still have a smooth, flat surface) then they can be re-used. I spent a few years designing and troubleshooting hydraulic systems, so I know what to look for.

 

In any case, even if I didn't reuse the washer, I don't like the idea of loose parts in unknown locations in my engine compartment. I would be worried about it finding its way somewhere it can cause trouble, and the only way to be sure of that is to get the part out of there.

Ok....I understand your question now! I used blue paper shop towels stuffed down under the banjo bolt area to fill any cavity small parts might fall into....and to keep the large amount of PB Blast I used on the bracket bolt from dripping down onto headers or other parts that would heat up and cause smoking....etc. When I removed the bracket I left the shop towels packed into that cavity. When I extracted the banjo bolt I simply let the washer drop down onto the paper shop towels and it was easy to get it out from there....best regards....

Can anyone confirm if the Turbocharger oil feed banjo bolt has the infamous screen in it on an 07 LGT? I dont want to tear it apart for no reason . Thank you in advance!

 

Brandon

The '07 does.

if your dealership staff can't figure out what the part # is, i don't recommend ordering anything from there.

especially since it took me all of 5 seconds to find it here.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=842649&postcount=2

You should not need to replace the banjo bolt. Only the crush washers if needed. You can buy crush washers at any auto parts store. They are commonly used on brake calipers. I have a small jar full of different sizes in my tool box.

 

 

Don't make this more dificult then it is.

 

Hey at 131,000 miles mine have never been removed.

especially since it took me all of 5 seconds to find it here.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=842649&postcount=2

Banjo Bolt (Called a union screw by SOA): 15194AA110

Washer (Called a gasket by SOA): 803910050

 

Is it a different bolt & washer depending on year? I bought the parts but haven't been able to carve out the time to do the change so am looking at the package as I type. The Union Screw with filter is 14445AA090. The washer came without a package but the part number I used is 803912040. I got mine from a dealer but as I recall I asked by part number rather than asking for a union screw for an '05 OBXT.

I just bought an 2005 GT yesterday. Now I'm paranoid so I'll prob be doing this check on the banjo bolt pretty soon. I have 79k miles on it.

I just bought an 2005 GT yesterday. Now I'm paranoid so I'll prob be doing this check on the banjo bolt pretty soon. I have 79k miles on it.

Did you get a Carfax report and if so how complete was it? Mine was extensive for the first 64,000 miles and then with the second owner almost nothing. This gives me 30,000 miles of unknown maintenance, which is what concerns me. Unfortunately my bolt and washer is still sitting in my tool box waiting for me to carve out the time between dealing with housing and job issues. I've got about 1500 miles left on my aftermarket warranty and my third oil change due soon . You should be OK as long as the previous owner(s) were good with 3-4k oil change intervals (OCI). Still no reason not to be safe and pull the bolt to at least check the filter.

Did you get a Carfax report and if so how complete was it? Mine was extensive for the first 64,000 miles and then with the second owner almost nothing. This gives me 30,000 miles of unknown maintenance, which is what concerns me. Unfortunately my bolt and washer is still sitting in my tool box waiting for me to carve out the time between dealing with housing and job issues. I've got about 1500 miles left on my aftermarket warranty and my third oil change due soon . You should be OK as long as the previous owner(s) were good with 3-4k oil change intervals (OCI). Still no reason not to be safe and pull the bolt to at least check the filter.

 

The car had 2 owners. The 1st owner was lease and had service performed at the dealers which showed up on the carfax. The 2nd owner who I bought it off did the maintenence at his father's shop so it wasn't recorded. He told me he did oil change every 3000 miles with Mobil 1. Last service interval was at 50k so I will be doing the tranny and diff fluids.

 

Now for questions on the bolt. I've read through the thread so I know where to look but do I have to check both bolts driver and passenger side? Do people just remove it entirely or replace it with a new one? If I find the screen to be dirty or clogged does that mean my turbo is going to go bad? In that case I would check for shaft play.

CB-M3: I will give you a brief case history. I purchased an 06 Legacy GT LTD (148k miles) in Florida. Verified its service history with Jacksonville Subaru. Original VF40 turbo. Turbo side banjo bolt/filter never inspected. One owner. Professional. Interstate commuter. 140k miles per day. Changed his oil religiously with Mobil 1 5W/30. Followed all of Subaru's turbo recommendations (warmup, warmdown, oil change every 3750 miles, Subaru filter). When I got back to Maine I pulled the original banjo bolt that feeds the turbo/passenger side AVCS. Filter in the banjo bolt looked good . No sludge. A few observable metal particles trapped on the feed side of the filter screen. Therefore I did not pull the driver's side banjo bolt (behind the timing cover) that feeds the driver side AVCS. The moral of this story is that if the vehicle has had oil changes every 3750 miles with good synthetic oil and filter, its banjo bolt is likely to be clean (and the turbo still healthy). However, just one long OCI due to ignorance or forgetfulness....and goodbye turbo. I strongly recommend retaining the original design banjo bolt/filter screen due to the observable metal particles I saw trapped inside the filter screen. I would not have wanted those particles to have flowed into the VF40 journal bearing area. I replaced the orignal banjo bolt/screen with a new part. I strongly recommend to anyone purchasing a Subaru with a turbo that they insist on a verifiable complete service history (specifically OCI's, oil and filter quality). Then immediately pull the banjo bolt/filter for inspection. Replace the bolt/filter with an original part. Yes, I have read all the posts about pulling the filter screens. Don't do it. Following Subaru's turbo recommendations to the letter will not prevent small metal particles from flowing through the VF40 turbo if the filter screen is absent from the banjo bolt. The flaky VF40 needs baby oil. But as you can see from this real world account, if it receives baby oil it can have a long service life....And if you live in a cooler climate definitely go to 0W/30 synthetic, or preferably the 0W/40 synthetic recently come to market. Don't forget to upgrade the oil pickup if the vehicle has over 30k miles...Best regards from Maine.

Do people just remove it entirely or replace it with a new one?

I've read so much about this in a number of threads, and it was a while ago so don't recall specific references, but as with many things there seems to be 2 schools of thought on this. I'm with jackfortune on this one. Many people who have examined the filter screen have mentioned 'a few metal particles.' Given this and that the critical element seems to be the OCI, added to the fact that Subaru engineers had a reason for the filter, I will retain it. I bought a new one just to be sure I had a replacement because when I get the thing all apart I have no way to run for parts.

So I tried to do this and it was epic fail. Broke a bolt for the heat shield bracket and bent some lines. I did get the banjo bolt out and there was nothing on the screen at 88k miles. Do you guys know where to find a stock wastegate actuator for a 05?

So I tried to do this and it was epic fail. Broke a bolt for the heat shield bracket and bent some lines. I did get the banjo bolt out and there was nothing on the screen at 88k miles. Do you guys know where to find a stock wastegate actuator for a 05?

 

are you leaving the banjo bolt out or keeping it in? I've read through this thread and half the people say keep it in and others say remove it. Will removing it cause any debris or metal to get into the turbo?