fx4me Posted October 19, 2010 Share Posted October 19, 2010 No install walk-through or picture I could find said anything about the crossmember stoppers that are on my car. I could not find a picture of, or any info about, installing a sway bay reinforcement bracket on a car that uses the crossmember stopper rather than the sub-support frame. The only way I was able to get the bracket to line up properly was to install it without the stoppers. Is this the correct way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tito_b0y Posted October 19, 2010 Share Posted October 19, 2010 That's weird. Judging from the first pic, I think that stopper is installed upside down. 2006 SWP 3.0R 5EAT VDC BBQ 2008 OBP 2.5i 4EAT BBQ [RIP] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fx4me Posted October 19, 2010 Author Share Posted October 19, 2010 I think you might be right, I've probably been trying to put them in backwards this whole time... Because that "first" picture was after I had put it back together after being frustrated by the mounts not lining up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gmachine Posted October 19, 2010 Share Posted October 19, 2010 http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z87/HDCHUNG2/IMG_1967.jpg Left over parts is bad immkayyy. Flip the plate over and reinstall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fx4me Posted October 19, 2010 Author Share Posted October 19, 2010 Just did. Only took 2 mins. I knew it didn't seem right so i haven't driven since the install this afternoon. Thanks for your guys' help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teK-- Posted November 6, 2010 Share Posted November 6, 2010 That last pic looks correct (the earlier one definitely looked upside down). I have the bracket installed as well and I should say that I don't think the fit is that good. I.e. to get it on we had to install the swaybar bracket bolts throgh the bracket, get them mostly finger tight, then tighten the crossmember bolt which then pulled the whole thing slightly forwards, before finally tightening the swaybar bolts. I.e. If either the crossmember or swaybar bolts were done up fully tight first, the holes wouldn't line up. What this meant for me, is when I went to undo the swaybar mount bolts one day to lube the bushes, the bolts and weldnuts got crossthreaded to hell on the way out and the bolts were BENT. Ended up having to remove the crossmember bolts, punch out the stuffed weldnuts on my stock mounts, and use new bolts and Nyloc nuts for the swaybar mounts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fx4me Posted November 6, 2010 Author Share Posted November 6, 2010 My weldnuts got corssthreaded, even when I tightened the bracket bolts and the subframe bolts incrementally. What I ended up doing is buying longer screws for the bracket, then putting them in with an additional nut on the other side of the weldnut to be sure they wouldn't back out like some stories I have read. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teK-- Posted November 7, 2010 Share Posted November 7, 2010 Yeah I was pretty angry considering that it was Sunday evening when this happened, and my rear suspension was in bits in the driveway. I couldn't even get the crossmember bolt off at home it was so tight; had to limp my car to my mate's workshop the next weekend to get it undone with an airgun. Luckily gf was overseas at the time and I had her car as a loaner for the week Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heferly Posted November 8, 2010 Share Posted November 8, 2010 yep, to the op, that piece is upside down i also had the problem with the bracket holes not lining up on one side...did the same thing as tek--, and everything pulled up ok i'll keep the cross-threading in mind, though, for when i have to service sometimes you eat the bar, and sometimes...well, he eats you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teK-- Posted November 10, 2010 Share Posted November 10, 2010 They are an M8 threaded bolt from memory, and a minimum 8.0 tensile rating. I'd go for 30mm long that allows you to use a washer inbetween the bolt head and also the Nyloc nut with lots of length to spare. Buy a few of these for in case you have to undo your swaybar bolts as it is almost certain they will crossthread on the way out. The weldnuts come off easily with a good whack of the hammer with a chisel, screwdriver, or if you are lucky and have an air chisel use that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fx4me Posted November 10, 2010 Author Share Posted November 10, 2010 They are M8x1.25 if you want to continue using the weldnut. I lubed mine extra good so I hope I wont have to mess with it until I decide to upgrade to a stiffer bar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted November 10, 2010 Share Posted November 10, 2010 Specific AVO install guide here - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustangendsley Posted November 10, 2010 Share Posted November 10, 2010 There is only 1 way this goes on. it should only take 5 min per side to do this job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Verwilderd Posted November 15, 2010 Share Posted November 15, 2010 http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z87/HDCHUNG2/IMG_1967.jpg Left over parts is bad immkayyy. Flip the plate over and reinstall. I litte OT and I apologize, but I noticed you have rear chassis braces....how you do like them? You notice much with them? I have a front and noticed quite a bit. I have been debating forever on getting rears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berkshire40 Posted November 15, 2010 Share Posted November 15, 2010 nevermind. lol Mod list & photos _ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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