Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

Koni's are they that good


BX77

Recommended Posts

Not to high jack the other threads, but I have reading and searching, I am about to Install some new WL bushings in my front end, and since I will have the car in the air. Should I get a set on Koni's.

 

Right now the car has 91K with new KYB's and Epic springs, with WL front and rear Sway bars and end links, and on smooth roads with small bumps the car rides great. but hit a NYC pot hole or expansion joint and it feels like the front struts will shoot through the hood. Bang, dash board rattles, it it sucks. I think I am hitting the bump stops.

 

So now my question, will the Koni's smooth out the ride and absorb these annoying jarring, bang ,and the sloppy all over the rode that I am feeling, Flame me if you have to.

 

I had the GT Worx spring and Bilstein setup in my WRX, it was a little stiff but the car was planted and you had a sense of confidence when driving. My LGT wagon is not my DD, and I do not Auto cross and will never see a track.

 

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 64
  • Created
  • Last Reply

konis, and bilsteins for that matter are sport oriented with stiffer dampening out of the box. some say they are stiffer, other find them comfortable. since you have aftermarket spring already, id say get the konis but i cant say that you will 100% love the ride or that it will absorb all the potholes in NYC. some people are just sensitive to every little thing. no shock is gonna stop NYC potholes from being too rough. the car just does not have the compression travel to absorb everything, especially since you are already lowered some from stock.

 

Konis and bils will both deal with bumps better in general and since your springs are designed for standard LGT shock bodys, id say go with the konis.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm also on KYB's/Epics, though I am on Hotchkiss (COBB) sways, and I can tell you that I plan on going to a set of Koni's (or Bilsteins if I can rationalize the cost). Current setup is lousy for anything but ribbon-smooth roads. And we definitely don't have those in Boston.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I drive the same roads/highways as you, and I can say if the car is lowered from the epics, then I would suggest the konis. I had eibach springs on kybs, and it was horrible, only good in a straight line. Went to konis and the whiteline(kca313) roll center and bumpsteer kit, I think this is a must for a lowered car. Much better, I have them on the stiffest settings and enjoy the ride. The adjustability alone was reason enough for me to buy them. At the beginning of every year there are usually awesome sales on sets from koni and all its distributors, I bought my set for 450 or 500 shipped. Plus lifetime warranty, you just bring it to a place or mail it and they give you new ones. Lots of reasons the konis are awesome, and they are easy on the wallet as well.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was already on the fence about the purchase for the last 3 weeks, So I ordered them after I made this thread, I have all the WH stuff ready to go, so this will be all in one shot can't wait
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Take your time when you install the cartridges in the front struts. There is a good write-up somewhere - on the install. Overall, I think you will like the upgrade + they are adjustable and it will give you something to mess with for several weeks after the install :lol:
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info, I should get them tomorrow, and do the install next week, my buddy has a lift in his garage and all the tools I would need. lets do it!!
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have read it a few times and drop some $$$ at Harbor Freight. I am added the same WL parts that you have , are you happy with them on theses crappy roads. I was upstate with my car and it fantastic. Then I went to Brooklyn and it felt like sh**
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good choice. We've installed a few hundred sets of konis here in NY/NJ area and most folks love them. The adjustability allows you to keep em soft in the city but if going upstate for a drive to tighten them up.

 

Lifetime warranty is great also.

 

Just don't cut the shock bodies too short or you'll need to buy new ones. We cut them as high as we can to the silver ring.

 

-Mike Paisan

 

AZP's First Private Track Event, June 19 at NJMP Thunderbolt $315 including Classroom and Mentor!

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg

11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts.

Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us.

Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber |AIM: AZP Installs

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators
Mike when you say as high to the silver ring at what measurement

Would be good?

 

As close as you can get with the brasscraft cutter from home depot.

 

EDIT: I'm going to be cutting a set shortly and I'm gonna make a video showing exactly what to do. People overcomplicate cutting the struts, not really all that hard!

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mike when you say as high to the silver ring at what measurement

Would be good?

 

We use a pipe cutter and get it as close to the silver ring as we can, ideally right where the ring meets the strut body, but in reality it comes down a few cm from there.

 

-Mike Paisan

 

AZP's First Private Track Event, June 19 at NJMP Thunderbolt $315 including Classroom and Mentor!

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/145749898/original.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/logos/perf1.jpg

11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts.

Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us.

Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber |AIM: AZP Installs

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have Konis and Epics and hey,look where I am! :) Some bumps are just rough. This is after tweaking the adjustment a bunch to say the least, from full soft to full hard and many points in between. It's the price of a sportier suspension with too little bump travel.

 

I drive into Brooklyn every single day, so I know what crap roads are like. I feel much more in control of the car now though. I also have everything up front completely WhiteLined. RCK, ALK (caster maxed out), outer LCA bushings, steering rack.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have Konis and Epics and hey,look where I am! :) Some bumps are just rough. This is after tweaking the adjustment a bunch to say the least, from full soft to full hard and many points in between. It's the price of a sportier suspension with too little bump travel.

 

What setting do leave yours on for Wife approval? can you adjust them easily.

 

or do you go under then car?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The adjustments are done from above the car. No tools necessary at all except the knob.

 

For front, pop off the dust cap (if you still want to keep them on... You have to poke a hole in it to make it fit. I lost one already) Stick the knob on, and turn. There are no clicks or indicators about where you are in the adjustment range, so you have to look at the knob and sort of figure how much you've turned relative to full soft/hard.

 

For the rear, it's under the trunk lining in the very inner most corners. It's a pain to do the rears because you have to pull the trunk lining back and you have to reach way, way in. I'm short so my entire upper half of my body goes in with my legs dangling. You can actually pull the lining back if you're careful without removing a single plastic rivet or clip or anything. Also, you have to take the spare tire cover floorboard out first. Then you remove the dust cap (again, optional if you kept them on) and stick the knob on. The knob does not fit well in the back because it hits the metal side of the car so turning it is difficult, but certainly doable.

 

Total turns from soft to hard is 2.25 full rotations. I think I have mine set to about 0.5 turns from full soft, all around. Wife doesn't complain but then again, she's not one to really notice those things I guess.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info, I should just drive my wife's car when we go out less headaches. I made the mistake of taken her for a ride in my Bosses S 550, she was I like the way this car rides your car should be like this. I have to admit it was nice!!.

 

With all the WL bushing that you have how bad is the NVH?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On smooth roads the ride is smooth and the car handles well. On certain sharp edged bumps though (potholes) the car is pretty harsh. Pavement/concrete slab seams on the highway are nothing though. Car goes right over them with a barely perceptible bump sound.

 

The bushings improved responsiveness of everything overall. The car goes where I tell it to go. It's a tradeoff for performance vs noise.

 

As Tehnation said, you're comparing to an S class. That's not fair at all. Closest thing you could probably get to that might be RCE coilovers, at least from what I've read. We simply don't have much suspension travel.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use