Coolant Change

I've been looking around for a coolant change guide/walkthrough or anything that would help but there's isn't much here that actually does.

 

So here's what I did today ('05 LGT):

 

To remove to engine undercover (you need a 12mm socket and a flat-head screwdriver).

There are 3 bolts and 4 pop-it's you have to remove.

Two pop-its are in the front wheelwells (one on each side). You can reach these when you're under the car looking upwards (watch out for dirt/sand and other crap falling). There are two more at the front of the car connecting the undercover to the bumper (pretty easy to see).

 

Once you have those removed, you have 3 bolts left. One is towards the end of the cover, right in the middle of the car. The other two are at the front by the bumper, slightly set inwards in two small wells. They're all pretty easy to find.

 

Now that all the clips and bolts are out, you can take the cover off. At the back of the cover, by the 3rd bolt, the cover has two small flap/rail things which "snap" onto/around some slots. They're pretty easy to bend outwards (just one side is needed then you can slide the other side out). Then just slide it backwards (out of the two bumper tabs) and it'll fall out.

 

To drain the radiator, there's a phillips-head drain plug by the passenger-side that you need to take out. It was pretty easy in mine, not much effort needed. The coolant came out sloooowly in a small drippy stream so there's no HUGE hurry to get it out of the way (as opposed to an oil change when the oil gushes out of the drain plug).

 

I took the radiator and filler tank caps off (they're two-stage caps so you turn it loose, then when it stops turning, push it down and continue and it'll pop off) and the coolant drained slightly faster.

 

Go get a drink, wash your hands, read a paper, it took a while for all the coolant to drain out.

 

Go back under the car, put the drain plug back in. Grab a funnel and start pouring in new coolant. I started from the location of the radiator cap and topped it off (You'll be easily able to pour in 1-1.25 gallons of new coolant before you want to slow down and watch it to make sure it doesn't overflow and spill out.) Put the radiator cap back on. Then I went to the radiator filler tank and topped that off as well.

 

After that's all done, you want to "burp" the radiator. I followed the instructions in the modified "11. Engine Coolant Replacement" manual page where it says:

 

11) Close the radiator cap (or the coolant filler tank cap on turbo models), and start the engine. Race 5 to 6 times at 3,000 rpm or less, then stop the engine. (Complete this operation within 40 seconds.)

12) Wait for one minute after the engine stops, then open the radiator cap (or the coolant filler tank cap on turbo models). If the engine coolant level drops, add engine coolant into the radiator (or the coolant

filler tank on turbo models) up to the filler neck position.

13) Perform the procedures 11) and 12) again.

14) Install the radiator cap (or the coolant filler tank cap on turbo models) and reservoir tank cap properly.

15) Start the engine and operate the heater at maximum hot position and the blower speed setting to “LO”.

16) Run the engine at 2,000 rpm or less until radiator fan starts and stops.

NOTE:

• Be careful with the engine coolant temperature gauge to prevent overheating.

• If the radiator hose becomes harden with the pressure of engine coolant, air bleeding operation seems to be almost completed.

17) Stop the engine and wait until the engine coolant temperature lowers to 30°C (86°F) or less.

18) Open the radiator cap (or the coolant filler tank cap on turbo models). If the engine coolant level drops, add engine coolant into the coolant filler tank up to the filler neck position and the reservoir tank to “FULL” level.

19) Install the radiator cap (or the coolant filler tank cap on turbo models) and reservoir tank cap properly.

20) Set the heater setting to maximum hot position and the blower speed setting to “LO” and start the engine. Perform racing at 3,000 rpm or less. If the flowing sound is heard from heater core, repeat the procedures from step 16).

 

If someone else has done this and something I've done here is wrong. Let me know so I can panic and figure out how to fix it before my car blows up.

 

I would put pictures... but I forgot to take them but I'll do it next I change it again.

An issue about the coolant conditioner and diluting the mix was brought up to me. Yes, you're supposed to add in the OEM Subaru Coolant Conditioner but there has been a small discussion/debate on if it's needed. To follow the direction totally, you may want to add it to stay within the normal OEM parameters.

 

I also believe that the normal OEM Subaru Coolant comes in a concentrated bottle. So you'll want to dilute it down before you add it in (or add it in and dilute it, whatever floats your boat).

Very nice walkthrough.

 

I think the main thing is to make sure you use Subaru OEM coolant to keep your aluminum engine from reacting to other coolant's chemical mixture(s). The coolant conditioner is designed to keep your headgaskets working correctly, so that's a good thing. Here's what Subaru published on the issue:

SBT

Coolant Cautions - All Subaru Models May05.pdf

Coolant Bleed Procedures Fall05.pdf

no draining from the block? I thought I read that there are two other places to drain coolant from the block. yes?

You'll never be able to drain every last drop out, some will always remain.

 

If if the Subaru coolant conditioner is "snake oil" it's best to put some in there and keep all receipts and document your work.

 

Subaru have extended the head gasket warranty on the 00 to 04 cars if you have record of using the right coolant.

Subaru have extended the head gasket warranty on the 00 to 04 cars if you have record of using the right coolant.

 

True. They replaced the HGs on my 01 Forester, beyond the PT warranty for that reason. That's another reason that I have the Subaru tech do the 30K fluid changes. It's documented and he uses only the Subaru coolants/additives.

SBT

This is a timely post. I just swapped coolant and used Prestone. Since I've got to swap one of the coolant hoses on the turbo another drain & fill will be required. Should a guy just go buy Subaru branded coolant?

^ I would. And do a flush while you're at it. How many miles are you at right now and have you changed out the coolant before?

SBT

44k miles, and it was changed out before I bought the car at 19k miles.

I will say that I had all the coolant out of the radiator and hoses, and then I opened the block to put in the block heater...

 

I would guess at least a half gallon to gallon more came out VERY quickly, most of it into my face

 

So, the radiator plug drains a lot, the block plug drains more...

A few comments/ questions :

A) If this coolant is made secifically for Subarus ,why do we have to add the Conditioner ? Just put the "special sauce" in it! I went and bought the antifreeze today at the dealer but the additive was back ordered 2 months. At $21 a gallon I should not have to add anything.

B) The wont honor the warrenty if anything else is used ? Im told that by federal law if maker says you can only use there product then they must supply the product free. ( Moss/ Furgurson ???)

Is this another thing " that makes a Subaru a Subaru"

Per the link above, you have to use OEM Subaru coolant OR a phosphate formula (non-amine) so it won't start eating at the aluminium parts ...

I'm due for a flush and also debating adding the additive. I'm being charged just little over a buck for a bottle, what can it hurt, right?

 

I have a Subaru standard-size thingie of coolant, is it a gallon? It's at home so I can't tell. Should I be dilluting it? What ratio?

$21 per gallon - shit that's outrageous! And is the Subaru branded coolant pre-mixed with the secret sauce?

It is the Magnuson Moss Warranty Act (what you are specifically talking about is 15 USC 2302©) and you do not have to use the magical Subaru coolant but you do have to use one that meets the specifications, which is just about any plain old green coolant.

Quoting Subaru on this one so you can get the right AF if you can't get the Subaru variety:

 

"Always use Genuine Subaru Long Life Anti-Freeze Coolant, which is readily available at all Subaru dealership parts departments. Its formula incorporates phosphate (non-amine) to insure adequate anti-corrosion protection of the aluminum alloys in boxer engines. If a substitute anti-freeze must be used in an emergency, be certain not to substitute the long-life OAT type found in certain domestic cars. Use only a phosphate (non-amine) formula. Read the label carefully to be sure."

 

But they also direct (notice the "must") the use of their cooling conditioner so, technically, according to the MMWA, they should be providing this.

 

"Whenever the coolant is changed for any reason whatsoever, you must add Genuine Subaru Cooling System Conditioner... This is the only additive that has been approved by SOA."

SBT

I read that for the warranty to be honored Subaru coolant ( not just the additive) MUST be in the system.

Sounds like if an other brand is in the system- no coverage. Then Subaru should supply the antifreeze as no other substitute is OK.

I think the additive is used to stop leaks. I found the attached recall letter from SOA that discusses leaky heads. It sounds like the cars, out-of-the-box do not have the additive and is installed if there are leaks. I assume that the offer to install by the recall means that it didn't have the additive. Anyone else have thoughts on this?

owners-letter.pdf

It is the Magnuson Moss Warranty Act (what you are specifically talking about is 15 USC 2302©) and you do not have to use the magical Subaru coolant but you do have to use one that meets the specifications, which is just about any plain old green coolant.

Check the 2nd bullet in Subietonic's attachment " Coolant Cautions"

This is where I see Magnauson / Moss apply. .... Must....use Subaru coolant...or ...must be in the system ...otherwise the claim will be denied.

Any lawyer types see this the way I do?

So am I understanding it right that we are supposed to do a drain vs a flush?

If we do a drain, are there then two drain points to get the fluid out?

Did my change today. No issues. My special Holts additive seemed to have a lot of solids in it. Clods of brown crap. Is this normal ? I did not shake it first, as advised.

Any one else find this in their additive?

Any one else find this in their additive?

 

What does this stuff do? Hopefully not anything to do with the cooling system?

SBT

Made to seal head gasket leaks , from the sounds of it. The stuff is red and had a large amount of solid brown stuff in it. What I would like to know is this normal, or was my stuff defective?

Made to seal head gasket leaks , from the sounds of it. The stuff is red and had a large amount of solid brown stuff in it. What I would like to know is this normal, or was my stuff defective?

 

Have never heard of this product. Trying to understand whethere you did or didn't put it in your Sube? I'm hoping the answer is no...

SBT

^^^ its the MUST use Subaru special coolant conditioner. Comes in a 4 oz. bottle at Subaru parts dealers. Fail to use it and no warrenty coverage for coolant related failures.

You add it into your cooling system when you do a coolant change.

Made in England by Holts.

It's the modern day equivalent of throwing a couple of egg whites into your radiator to stop leaks.

 

Yes that works also, but I doubt if Subaru would approve