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Day 1 of Clutch Replacement


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Well this is the first time I've ever tried to replace a clutch on my own. I got pretty far. The trans is still attached with trans mount and pitch stop still in place.

 

Most of the removal went pretty well other than the DP. Bottom bolt was a PITA.

 

I have a question about the bracket that is mounted to the engine beneath the tmic. Is it nessecary because all I can see is that it keeps that one connector in place. The bolt that sticks up put a huge dent in my perrin tmic.

 

I'm sort of stuck removing the front axles from the trans. Is it correct to unbolt the front sway bar and ball joints? I read that it will let the front wheels swing out so you can pull the axles out but I don't see how.

 

I'm sure I'll have more questions the further I get.

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You shouldn't need to unbolt the sway to get the hubs out. Just pop out the BJ with a prybar and loosen the axle nuts. Shit should pop out just fine.

 

You'll need some kind of punch, though, to get the "divot" out of the hub in order to not only loosen the axle nut, but to also put it back.

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That stud on that bracket is not needed.

 

Remove the cotter pin from the ball joint, loosen the nut until about 4 threads are holding it on the ball joint stud. Hit the :CA by the ball joint with a 5lb hammer, after a few hits the ball joint will be free, use a pry bar to check it.

 

Remove the bolt from the sway bar end link, that will give you some room to lower the LCA.

 

I found it easy to turn the steering wheel to the right to put the left ball joint back in, remember that hint for later. Turn the wheel to the left to put the right ball joint in.

 

Break the axle nut loose before you jack the car up. If it's not to late.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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The only thing I care to add is listen to max if you're thinking about touching the ball joint. Remove the cotter pin and castle nut from the bottom of the ball joint, I wouldn't touch the pinch bolt that holds the top of the ball joint. I recently went through this (messing with the ball joints to replace my axles, not a clutch job) on both sides of my car, and lets just say I have 2 new knuckles now because of the stupid pinch bolt snapping. When removing the axle nuts, I just took them right off with a breaker bar and didn't mess with unstaking the nut (I also replaced both axles, but I've heard of others doing this even when they don't replace the axles). To stake the nut, I don't know if this is correct, but I just used a nail setter which seemed to do the trick just fine.

 

*The more I think of it, do you really need to loosen the axle nuts to do this? I can't think of why you would, but I've never done a clutch and I had never replaced an axle until recently.

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Seriously--no need to pull axles and pull the whole transmission, especially when you are just on jack stands...

 

This. If you really wanna pull something out, I'd pull the engine before I'd pull the trans. Trying to lift that out and lift it back in is tougher from that angle, than just lifting the motor out of the way from the top -

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The only thing I care to add is listen to max if you're thinking about touching the ball joint. Remove the cotter pin and castle nut from the bottom of the ball joint, I wouldn't touch the pinch bolt that holds the top of the ball joint. I recently went through this (messing with the ball joints to replace my axles, not a clutch job) on both sides of my car, and lets just say I have 2 new knuckles now because of the stupid pinch bolt snapping. When removing the axle nuts, I just took them right off with a breaker bar and didn't mess with unstaking the nut (I also replaced both axles, but I've heard of others doing this even when they don't replace the axles). To stake the nut, I don't know if this is correct, but I just used a nail setter which seemed to do the trick just fine.

 

*The more I think of it, do you really need to loosen the axle nuts to do this? I can't think of why you would, but I've never done a clutch and I had never replaced an axle until recently.

Sooner or later ball joint replacement is inevitable. I suggest hitting the pinch bolt with PB Blaster a few times to loosen things up. I've done this over the past year while rotating tires and checking brake linings.

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I'll throw in my two cents since I just did a clutch. If you haven't already drain the trans fluid. I forgot to do this and lost half of the fluid out of the side and back of the trans. Good opportunity to do a drain and fill.

 

 

I thought that was part of the job, one of the first steps...I guess you missed that memo. :)

 

I'll bet that made a nice mess to work in...

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I actually found having the trans out made it easier to deal with the clutch. I'm a small guy, but I was able to sit Indian style in the bell housing. It made removing the clutch and flywheel much easier. I was also replacing an axle, so I was half way there.

 

To people suggesting leave it in - How far can you pull it back? Just a few inches or close to a foot? I used an electric impact gun to remove the flywheel bolts. I don't think that would have worked with the transmission still in the vehicle.

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I actually found having the trans out made it easier to deal with the clutch. I'm a small guy, but I was able to sit Indian style in the bell housing. It made removing the clutch and flywheel much easier. I was also replacing an axle, so I was half way there.

 

To people suggesting leave it in - How far can you pull it back? Just a few inches or close to a foot? I used an electric impact gun to remove the flywheel bolts. I don't think that would have worked with the transmission still in the vehicle.

 

 

The impact gun/tool is why I think it's needed to drop the tranny. When I had the engine out of the car, the impact gun worked great on those pesky FW bolts.

 

If you have a lift and help, you can still leave the axles in the tranny, they will come out as you lower and slide it back, much the same as the rear axles do when you drop the diff down and forward.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Just an updated. Trans was pulled, dowel pins suck. Clutch disk was down to rivets on one side.

 

I didn't brace the engine, i was thinking the extra movement would help me get it off. Pretty sure I was wrong. I think keeping the engine braced would of made it easier to pull the trans.

 

I don't know if it matters but I over torqued the pressure plate on accident and I put red lock tight on it. Probably will never come off.

 

As I was replacing the throw out bearing I noticed who ever replaced the clutch before had already done the tsk. Good thing I bought it or I wouldn't have had a throw out bearing.

 

So now I have an extra regular bearing and a trans sleeve.

 

Planning on trying to get the trans back on this morning. How clean does the mating surface between the trans and engine have to be?

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Damnit, forgot anti seize. I actually wanted to do that.

 

Trans is back on, was actually easier than pulling it got the axles back in fine. I couldn't use the codder pins back in on one of the crown nuts. Didn't have room and didn't want to loosen it. Don't know how good of an idea that was.

 

Got the drive shaft and trans mount back on. Going to do the rest during the week.

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