RooTBeeR Posted September 18, 2015 Share Posted September 18, 2015 I installed this on my 2005 Legacy GT. I decided to grab a DeatschWerks DW300C fuel pump with the install kit since i'll be running E85. Didnt see a write up on it yet, figured I'd do one. SOOOO many pictures. First, go to your favorite parts dealer. I've been nothing but happy with IP&T(and parts show up fast because they're local)...shameless plug http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/17/e56271cbff05315a2e13f5eeead02d2d.jpg Then open the box after it gets delivered. Should look like this. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/17/1c1681df463b4a537e652a73fa49b2f4.jpg Next, make sure your tank is just about as low as possible for little to no mess. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/17/10b7407831b4658030d8e8a8566e8c8d.jpg Pull out the fuel pump fuse, run the car out of gas to relieve the pressure from the lines. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/17/567eb61a17eb0e82723e31d862eb927c.jpg Remove the rear seat. On the passenger side, move the insulation out of the way. Remove the 4 Phillips head screws from the black access panel. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/17/e23af035a52930c8a18c350b26f2208f.jpg Remove the access panel. If you have driven through the desert like me, it'll look like this. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/17/d62ecf6b98efca12f862f944975b6134.jpg If you*have*driven through the desert, you have a bit more time and effort involved. Clean off the fuel pump canister as best you can before going any further. Unplug the wire harness. Pull off the 3 hoses. Next, remove the 8mm nuts(8 of them) holding the canister/pump in the tank. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/17/76f25f872695323b3b10a444bc72f7a4.jpg Pull out the metal retaining ring. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/17/aa774516f24ab6e71eecb24e8cf60e3b.jpg Pull the whole canister out of the tank. I actually managed to keep all of the gas in the tank and the pump housing. Held it over the tank for a minute, then took it out of the car when it stopped dripping. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/17/6ec3638fd3bb840d2b9c8f2771db49f2.jpg I covered the tank so no debris wouldn't fall in while swapping the pumps. Then, you set your fuel pump canister on your "bench"(a truck tailgate in my case". I used cardboard to help soak up left over gas. Next, knock it over so that the majority of gas sitting in it goes everywhere. Finish dumping out the rest in a bucket. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/17/91251c02b1814174e1279be9707f3a8c.jpg After all of that mess is over, Remove these two wire plugs. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/17/bdb8a4dd784d843eeec4901ab7325e86.jpg Next, pop off these 4 clips that hold the cup to the bottom of the pump assembly, and slide it off. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/17/6d2bd6b25f44b3f4ba585346340ffdc6.jpg Look at all the crap sitting in the bottom. and how much is stuck to the sock. Clean it out. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/17/3c1ebb77471247ba26298feef65f3309.jpg http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/17/9df1c4e8665ca806b95bda9242df5871.jpg Pull the hoses off the bottom near the sock filter. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/17/0aa8de71569d7612ec21ecd3fafd6785.jpg http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/17/a1ad508b9644132451b0b97eaa980ff4.jpg Now, compress the springs and remove the C-clip. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/17/3974f6b8103126fb21ed62b6e72d6010.jpg http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/17/ae200474a18a2e57b72602f13e44a450.jpg Separate the top and bottom. Unplug the wire harness from the fuel pump. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/17/f96d121bd52c4f8ab485a3d18d331740.jpg Be patient and get crafty with two flat head screwdrivers to free the pump from the housings angry clutches...unclip one side, and then the other. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/17/3cf68cd823adf0ca566fb1f08509f47d.jpg "Build" Thread <--Link (OLD) '05 EJ255 now a '13 EJ257 Bottom End w/D25 heads (NEW) Forever Slow [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTBeeR Posted September 18, 2015 Author Share Posted September 18, 2015 Slide the pump out. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/17/47b05124d4cc9a865cecf35a612d48f7.jpg Put pumps next to each other to see how similar they are for no real reason. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/17/039086a6776562432a6f4294afbf5855.jpg Move the o-ring "pusher" from the old pump to the new pump, lube and install the new o-rings on the pump outlet. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/17/d5d90ca4fbef99acb0a34cdc6469fde3.jpg Slide the pump back into its plastic coffin home, make sure both clips lock. Install the filter sock, lock it in place with the supplied lock washer. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/17/09b4f881cec90bba7b131e2416c6918b.jpg Plug in the wires to the pump. Put the top and bottom housing back together, and reinstall the C-clip to keep it together. Plug the hoses back into the bottom of the canister.(I lubed all the o-rings, green one stayed in the housing, so i pulled that out first) Plug the pump wires back into the top of the housing. Slide the bottom cup back on the assembly, making sure all 4 clips lock it in place. Plug in the fuel level wires. Slide the assembly into the gasket on the tank. Take your finished assembly and put it back into the tank. Put the black retaining ring on the assembly and make sure the gasket, pump canister, and retaining ring are in the correct orientation. Put the 8mm(8 of them) nuts back on compressing the springs on the assembly. Snug them down goodentight. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/17/df3c03e881b7bf2c27d71faaee1e4126.jpg Reconnect the fuel lines and wiring harness. Put the Fuel pump fuse back in. Cycle the key a few times, make sure the pump fills the canister up(I was able to hear it), and pressure back in the lines. Checking for potential leaks as pressure builds. Start the engine to make sure all is well. After being satisfied with the lack of leaks, and adequate fuel delivery, reinstall the black access cover and 4 phillips head screws that keep it in place. Replace the insulation, and the seat bottom and go make the boosts! I had like 70 pics, but edited it down to 25, and it still needs two posts...just being through. "Build" Thread <--Link (OLD) '05 EJ255 now a '13 EJ257 Bottom End w/D25 heads (NEW) Forever Slow [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterJMC Posted September 18, 2015 Share Posted September 18, 2015 Nice work! Is there a reason why you doubled up the o-ring and used the old one? Is that part of the instructions or was the DW o-ring not snug enough? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTBeeR Posted September 18, 2015 Author Share Posted September 18, 2015 The DW alone let the pump slide up and down a bit more than I'd like. Stock pump didn't move at all. I saw people were doubling the o-rings on the walbro pumps, so I figure I'd git it a go. I can always get the bigger light and seal and swap it in later. As long as you have all the tools with you on everything, you could probably do this in like a half hour "Build" Thread <--Link (OLD) '05 EJ255 now a '13 EJ257 Bottom End w/D25 heads (NEW) Forever Slow [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterJMC Posted September 18, 2015 Share Posted September 18, 2015 Just did some research and it looks like DW does recommend using both o-rings on the pump install. Install Instructions http://www.deatschwerks.com/images/stories/products/fuelpump/08%20Subaru%20DW65c%20Fuel%20Pump%20Installation%20Guide.pdf Post on NASIOC http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2592904 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTBeeR Posted September 18, 2015 Author Share Posted September 18, 2015 Woo hoo! I did something right haha...half right. I reused one stock o-ring on the pump. The DW o-rings are a bit smaller O.D. I swear, I did sort of skim the directions, but missed that part. Thanks for that link, its got all the info there! Like I said, it's pretty straightforward, it's just one step before the other. But that still would have been nice to have. There really aren't any directions that come with it. "Build" Thread <--Link (OLD) '05 EJ255 now a '13 EJ257 Bottom End w/D25 heads (NEW) Forever Slow [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P-UNIT Posted September 24, 2015 Share Posted September 24, 2015 Really nice write-up. I'll be using this when I change my pump! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTBeeR Posted September 24, 2015 Author Share Posted September 24, 2015 Thanks. During my install I did some dumb waste time wrong things, butni left most of that out Haha. "Build" Thread <--Link (OLD) '05 EJ255 now a '13 EJ257 Bottom End w/D25 heads (NEW) Forever Slow [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted October 1, 2015 Share Posted October 1, 2015 I highly highly recommend hard wiring this pump. It draws a lot of current and the factory wiring drops a few volts. Also, the pump does not like running below 6V, so you should adjust your minimum fuel pump duty cycle to at least 50% -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanyb505 Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 Bump for anyone looking for a good write up. I used it to install a DW65c. Actually, I used it to remove the stock pump, and haven't installed anything yet. Enjoying a nice beer break. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted May 7, 2016 Share Posted May 7, 2016 This guide worked great for installing a DW65c. Better than DeatschWerks' own pdf. I also replaced the fuel filter. It's that entire assembly in white: The only reason to remove the OEM fuel pump, if you are replacing the filter, is to harvest the o-ring spacer. (will update if I can find it's part number, as it would save some time and frustration popping out the pump) pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LatentWagen Posted May 7, 2016 Share Posted May 7, 2016 Nice work! Subbed for future reference... LW's spec. B / YT / IG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTBeeR Posted May 8, 2016 Author Share Posted May 8, 2016 This guide worked great for installing a DW65c. Better than DeatschWerks' own pdf. I also replaced the fuel filter. It's that entire assembly in white: The only reason to remove the OEM fuel pump, if you are replacing the filter, is to harvest the o-ring spacer. (will update if I can find it's part number, as it would save some time and frustration popping out the pump) Thank you! Glad it worked for you. "Build" Thread <--Link (OLD) '05 EJ255 now a '13 EJ257 Bottom End w/D25 heads (NEW) Forever Slow [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utc_pyro Posted May 21, 2016 Share Posted May 21, 2016 Just used this to install a DW65c as well per RooTBeeR's guide. So much clearer than the DW one! A tip is any of you guys run into pinched orings like I did and the dealer is closed: You CAN revive them with just a cup of water and a microwave. Put oring in cup, place in microwave, heat on high for ~4 minutes. Pull it out and it'll be back to the original shape. The green one for that black plug with no opening go into the filter was pinched pretty bad. Just put everything back together and it seems to work. Car isn't completely drivable so I can tell if thing are 100% sealed yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Living Legacy Posted June 2, 2016 Share Posted June 2, 2016 Thanks for this write up! At the risk of sounding like an idiot... Is there a need to re-tune, change fuel pressure, or make any other changes after the install on an otherwise stock LGT? I will be re-tuning once I install some other mods, but was hoping to install the fuel pump on my own first. I may replace the fuel pressure regulator as well (when I install the fuel pump or I may have the shop who tunes do it)... any idea how this would impact fuel delivery? Am I going to need to install a fuel pressure gauge to adjust the FPR to match stock pressure after the fuel pump and / or FPR? Thanks for the help guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanyb505 Posted June 2, 2016 Share Posted June 2, 2016 I drove for a week or so without a tune after installing a dw65. I didn't notice any poor performance. Not sure about fpr. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted July 9, 2016 Share Posted July 9, 2016 Pulled mine with 7+ gallons on board. Fuel was really close to the top... Reiterate do this on an empty tank if you can. Thanks for the write up Rootbeer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DadSled Posted April 20, 2017 Share Posted April 20, 2017 After replacing my ancient fuel pump today with deatschwerks 300, my tuner indeed brought out the laptop and made some changes to the tune. It solved like eighteen different issues in fell swoop (ok, only four maybe). Very happy!!! Recurring misfire 0304 was only due to last cylinder being starved for fuel. New pump = engine running smooth as can be More torque Stabilized idle Burning less oil / engine throwing off way less heat Even the AC seems to work a little better!!! Thanks for this write up! At the risk of sounding like an idiot... Is there a need to re-tune, change fuel pressure, or make any other changes after the install on an otherwise stock LGT? I will be re-tuning once I install some other mods, but was hoping to install the fuel pump on my own first. I may replace the fuel pressure regulator as well (when I install the fuel pump or I may have the shop who tunes do it)... any idea how this would impact fuel delivery? Am I going to need to install a fuel pressure gauge to adjust the FPR to match stock pressure after the fuel pump and / or FPR? Thanks for the help guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DadSled Posted April 21, 2017 Share Posted April 21, 2017 Pretty sure it's a dw300c Sorry if I wasn't clear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 glad I found this I have a DW65c I will be installing at a later date. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted November 14, 2018 Share Posted November 14, 2018 Thank you for putting this tegether. Particularly helpful for those us planning to run E85. I took the liberty of converting this to a PDF. I like to keep these in my How-to binder for easy/quick reference. Please advise if I've missed anything.Rootbeer’s DeatschWerks DW300C Fuel Pump Install Walk-through.pdf - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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