Throttle body 4th gen-stalling

06 lgt mt-stage 2-145k on the odometer, had since new-Intermittent stalling when coming to a stop. Replaced tgv gaskets and all intake manifold gaskets & injector o rings. My mechanic is guessing that the electric motor in the throttle body is sticking and not moving fast enough to stop the stalling. He is suggesting a new throttle body. Will any throttle body, generation 4, be ok? Or does it have to be an 06 model year? He does not think there is any way to "free up the electric motor". Is it advisable to buy a used throttle body? thanks gary

Any 05-07 should work. I had same problem with mine.

I'm having trouble with my car it stalled once, but when I braek the engine shakes and the RPMs drop below the lowest mark on the tach. Any ideas? I took one of the wires off of the battery to clean off the corrosion. Ithink I may need to reset the computer possibily... please help

Are either of you using a full atmospheric bov? When I got my car, I removed my bypass tube(and plugged it of course) to vent to atmosphere on my stock valve. It got put back on as soon as I got home. It stalled occasionally when stopping, usually after reaching higher rpms. Easy driving thru town (2000-2300 rpm shifts) did not really have problems.

No full atmospheric bov

I got some carb/ intake cleaner sprayed it down and cleaned the throttle circle thing (sorry, I'm not very techincally inclined when it comes to the proper terminology) it was pretty dirty thick black stuff. Started it back up...... Check engine light came on, BUT the car runs fine now. RPM on the tach seems normal after braking. No shaking or rumblng. I think the check engine light might just be from the valoline throttle cleaner down the intake on accident. In my informal diagnosis: I think the throttle circle thing wasn't closing all the way because it was gummed up screwing up the air to fuel combo; which did not effect the car while driving, but causing it to sputter at stop lights and stop signs.

I've been told that cleaning the throttle body and plate should be standard maintenance along with cleaning the MAF on these cars. My local tuner recommends doing it every oil change.

Injector o rings replaced-one was gouged. Throttle body removed and cleaned. It has only been 2 days but no more stalling. The tach also now settles down asap upon the throttle closing. It used to bounce a bit. I think the problem has been solved.

 

thanks for all of the helpful advice.

reviving this old thread. I think I am having the same problem. OP, is your car still doing OK since you've removed and cleaned the throttle body?

did ok all winter.

 

Gone down the tubes with the arrival of spring and warm temperature.

care to elaborate?

As the weather warmed stalling restarted.

interesting. Did you ever check/change your pcv valve? It may have been bad and made your throttle body dirty again

sure it's not this? :

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/p2138-throttle-pedal-position-sensor-switch-150344.html

will try

 

thanks

try an idle relearn ..

 

disconnect battery

 

reconenct

 

let idle in drive ( if auto ) N if mt with everything on

 

let it idel untill the engine reaches temperature..

 

this is common problem

Can this also be done with a Learning View reset?

 

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thanks

Can this also be done with a Learning View reset?

 

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i would think but don't know for sure..

 

if you are able to tune your car you can raise the initial throttle position in the drive by wire tables. by a tiny bit.

 

keep in mind that every car is slightly different. and the difference i nthe throttle body initial angle in combination with other things some cars will do this worse than others. its why the learning is important.

 

as it warms up the first time after a rest it memorized the throttle position at each given temperature and will use that when you drive your car instead of the predetermined values.