Help

so i just purchased a 92 legacy L for $100 and it won't start, cranks good, has good compression, and good spark, no sucktion at the throttle body so all i can think is somehow or another the timing is 180' off causing it to fire at the wrong time so on and so on, this is my first time dealing with a subie so i am in the dark. i am thinking i am going to tear the front of the motor off and see if the timing is off, any help or suggestions would help tremendously thanks in advance for the help ill get some pics up later of it if you really want to see it lol.

Well, you are headed in the right direction.

First thing to check will be the timing belt. Not an issue if it has snapped, it does no harm to this engine.

belt has not snapped and timing marks all line up, any clues for a next step all help or ideas welcome, thanks

Congrats on the 100$ car! That is awesome! SOMEone here will have answers for you!

thanks i really hope so

check ur fuel filter and fuel pump.

I would make sure fuel is getting to the throttle body first before tearing off the front. After that then I would go into the front and check out the timing belt.

getting fuel just fine, timing on crank is off by one tooth, going to pull off and reset timing and see what happens

That's a nice find for $100.

 

By the way, the fuel doesn't travel to the throttle body. That's only in TBI injected motors like the ones from early 90's GM and Ford. Fuel on the Subie comes from twin fuel rails mounted in the intake manifold near the ports of the cylinder heads (Hence Multi Port Fuel Injection).

 

Anyway, check for vacuum leaks. If there is no vacuum at the throttle body there might be one somewhere. It would have to be a giant one to prevent any suction at the throttle body though... We're talking a massive gaping hole. Even with a vacuum leak the engine should still pop, sputter, and fire a little bit.

 

Any videos?

ha ha i got it!!! it broke the key that holds the crank gear in place and the cam pully, it broke the end of the cam too. so what did i do you ask?? i welded the crank gear straight to the end of the crank and put a new timing belt on then tacked the crank pully into place just so it wont spin freely from the crank. on a car without so many miles i wouldn't have done this, it will work until the motor shitts out and then i will just buy a turbo motor and manuel trans and put them in instead lol total cost of car..... $140 because of new timing belt

i havent drove it yet it pissed all of its trans fluid out when the radiator was out so i have to refil that, this is a dumb question but how do you fill the trans on this car?

Right down the transmission dipstick. Just make sure you don't fill the front diff by accident. Did that once when I did a transmission flush. I felt like a complete moron after too.....

drove it finally went and found some snow crusted with ice that was like a foot deep this is my first all wheel drive car so i played in that for a bit it was fun even with bald tires a bad cv joint and a bent rim. anyway am i correct in assuming that when you replace the tires you have to replace all four at the same time and they have to be the same brand and everything? thanks to all i am learning something new everyday about this car on this website you guys rock!!!

Depends on your financial status. If the tires are bald replace them all. If only the fronts are bald then only buy 2. If you don't want to spend the money to get new tires and pay to have them mounted find a good looking set of 2 or 4 tires from a junkyard. It is best to get matching brands, but if you can't find matching brands at the very least you must get matching sizes. The size will be visible on the side of the tire. Get them with rims if you can, otherwise you still have to pay to get the mounted (Unless you're magical and can pull either a set of tire spoons or a mounting machine out of your butt). You can mix and match tires, just make sure they are all the same size and none of them have any cracks (AKA Dryrot) in between the treads or on the sidewalls. Tires showing signs of dryrot have an increased tendency to blow out on you.

 

If you have the money, you're best bet is always going with a matching set of 4 brand new tires, most places include free balancing or a free 4 wheel alignment. If you're going to go that route, pick up another rim from a junkyard to replace the bent one on the car and give it to the place you buy your tires from. Tell them to replace the wheel with the bent one then give you the old one back so you can toss it in a McDonalds dumpster at 3:00 AM. If you get the free 4 wheel alignment with your complete tire purchase, don't hold out much hope that they'll be able to get it spot on, since the bolts tend to seize up on these cars after a while. They came close with mine but they couldn't align the rear because the bolts were seized and they wouldn't touch them after that. One more tip, replace the CV shaft before you take the car in for an alignment. The upper bolt that holds the knuckle to the strut is eccentric, meaning it is used to set camber for the wheel. If you get an alignment then replace the CV shaft and don't put this bolt back exactly where they had it you're going to be off on your camber settings and you'll notice you'll burn through your new tire on that side faster than all the others.

"then give you the old one back so you can toss it in a McDonalds dumpster at 3:00 AM"

 

That'll show 'em for creating the "McDouble"...jerks!

i can get tires from work mount and balance them for freei work at a toyota dealer so i will just steal some from the used tire pile out back lol i just needed to know if everything had to be exactly the same or not. thanks

yes.

ah got some new tires that are all the same size and good tread left and a new cv joint so the car is solid and good to go ralley in now!!! lol its so fun in a snowy muddy field

Very nice! Pics?

^+1.

Lets see this $100 deal of the year haha