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Lowering and Suspension Refresh OBXT


easton

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My beloved '07 OBXT 5MT now has about 85k on the clock. I drive pretty hard, so that car is starting to be pretty unpleasant to drive. There are all sorts of clunks, squeaks, and shimmies that I want to address. I can't seem to find a thread that addresses maintaining the entire suspension, so here's my attempt.

 

The objective of my project is to lower the car a reasonable amount to improve handling, while avoiding drivability issues. I also want to eliminate all of the unwanted clunks etc. My car is a daily driver, and gets driven in snow regularly. Winter tires are Blizzak WS70 on stock rims, summer wheels/tires are 245/45-18 Eagle F1 on SSR GT2 with 48mm offset.

 

My current suspension is mostly stock. I have only replaced the LCA bushings with AVO offset bushings, and have also added Rallitek F/R swaybars and AVO reinforcing brackets.

 

Here are the parts I have collected so for for this project:

 

Legacy GT Wagon Springs

Bilstein Spec B Shocks/Struts - Used approx 40k

Spec B Tophats

Legacy GT Rear Bump Stops

1/2" Saggy Butt Spacers

STI Transmission Mount

 

I still need to figure out what endlinks I am going to use. I am leaning toward Kartboy, but am not sure what lengths to order.

 

What other bushings or soft parts should I be replacing while I am tearing all of this apart? Should I be changing out motor mounts and pitch-stop as well?

 

Should I also plan on replacing ball-joints and tie-rod ends?

 

The summer setup rubs when turning the wheel to the extreme ends, but that is all. I'm wondering how that will change when the car gets dropped down?

 

Thanks for your help!

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Use Bilstein HD's, not the OEM Spec-B stuff. Use stock Spec-B springs too.

 

Even with the 1/2" saggy spacers, you'll be riding practically on the bumpstops which makes the ride a little aggressive in the rear. You'll need something larger than 1/2".

 

You will need Whiteline's KCA399 to fix camber in the rear, and even then, you might find the rear rubs.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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Thanks.

 

To clarify, the struts/shocks are JDM wagon spec B takeoffs.

 

How much more than 1/2" do I need for the spacers?

 

I've seen the whiteline KCA399 recommended, will order.

 

What about steering rack bushings, worth it?

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I'm going to do the rack bushings when I do my 60k. I think they'll be worth it. I'm also doing both LCA bushings and the Whiteline RCK.

 

I'm making 1.375" rear spacers, and 1" front spacers to put things back in order. That should be sufficient.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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Both. Im not set on the spacer thickness yet, but I will be soon.

 

I'm running KB endlinks.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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Standard length Legacy endlinks.
[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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As everyone has said the steering rack bushings, LCAs (both front and inner), RCK are all good ways to get back some new car feel. I would also do things like Group N motor mounts, trans mount, trans cross member mounts, and shifter bushings. They will not only make the car feel new again, but get rid of the stock drive train slop. The rear end of the car is more difficult as those arms are a PIA to get off but the bushings are well worth it.

 

-Jake

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://upload.pbase.com/image/137566671.jpg Call directly for your best Whiteline Price! | We also carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us.

AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: paisan@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

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If you've got clunks the ball joints in the LCA's & the tie-rods are usual suspects. Replace all 4 for around $100 in parts.

 

For endlinks I've had good luck with the Rallitek's - http://www.rallitek.com/RalliTEK-HD-Front-Endlinks/p-4269

 

Not sure the Whiteline camber bushings actually change anything, I've heard mixed stuff. Still, when I had LGT suspension the camber was acceptable (even preferable) and there was no tire rub.

 

I've got some homemade 1" HDPE spacers for front & rear if anyone wants to buy them...

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The slop is how jiggly the transmission and entire drivetrain are form the factory. in the quest to reduce NVH, they have installed a bunch of soft parts that are quiet but provide a distinctly disconnected driving experience. I'm looking to tighten all that up more like a European car.

 

Thanks for the Rallitek recommendation. They are here in Portland, so I actually went there to buy my Rallitek F/R swaybar setup. They told me that only their front Endlinks will work, and that there was a design flaw with the rears. They mentioned (tongue in cheek) that they have a few thousand pairs they consider worthless.

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Shift knob, clutch, brake pedal, butt, back, you name it. The problem becomes much more apparent once you go above stock power levels. The problem gets compounded over time as the various bushings tear or lose their elasticity. Polyurethane parts are so popular in the aftermarket because they get rid of much of the slop and tend to last longer than stock rubber bits. Downside is that NVH from tires/suspension/driveline are increased.

 

I'm going to order as many Group N parts as possibe for my car because factory go-fast bits tend to be very well engineered and fit perfectly.

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Shift knob, clutch, brake pedal, butt, back, you name it. The problem becomes much more apparent once you go above stock power levels. The problem gets compounded over time as the various bushings tear or lose their elasticity. Polyurethane parts are so popular in the aftermarket because they get rid of much of the slop and tend to last longer than stock rubber bits. Downside is that NVH from tires/suspension/driveline are increased.

 

I'm going to order as many Group N parts as possibe for my car because factory go-fast bits tend to be very well engineered and fit perfectly.

Huh, OK. I'm at stage zero so I guess it isn't apparent :) Suspension slop however, that's another thing.

 

The spacers are a game of trial & error and depend on a mess of factors like US vs JDM tophats, etc. Also a certain size spacer in the rear yields higher lift than in the front due to the lever effect.

 

So to answer your question, a 1" spacer in back mated well with a .7" spacer up front & JDM tophats using USDM springs. It sat well below stock OBXT and maybe a bit below a stock LGT.

 

I ordered several sheets of HDPE of different thicknesses & cut a bunch of spacers, then did a lot of experimenting using LGT shocks & springs.

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The best way to describe the difference in drivetrain slop is this: When you put the pedal down the car responds within a second of the change you just applied. However if you now upgraded bushings, mounts etc that time gets reduced. Also the car will feel like it might have gained power. It didn't. You are taking applying the power more effectively and possibly loosing less through drivetrain.

 

That being said, stick with Group N/STi parts when doing things like motor mounts or trans mounts. They normally dont add to much NVH, fit perfect. Perfect compromise.

 

-Jake

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://upload.pbase.com/image/137566671.jpg Call directly for your best Whiteline Price! | We also carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us.

AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: paisan@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

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AZP, what Group N parts are available? I've got the trans mount already. Planning on a set of motor mounts as well. Do they make parts for the rest of the suspension?

 

STi/Group N has motor, trans mounts, shifter bushings, pitch stop, as well as some suspension bushings. If you are looking for more feed back but less harshness then I would go with the Group N suspension bushings, but if you want the little extra performance then go with Whiteline with the suspension bushings.

 

Basically STi/Group N have most of the drivetrain bushings but when it comes to suspension only a few things.

 

-Jake

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://upload.pbase.com/image/137566671.jpg Call directly for your best Whiteline Price! | We also carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us.

AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: paisan@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

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We are! Both the Grp N and Whiteline products.

 

-Jake

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://upload.pbase.com/image/137566671.jpg Call directly for your best Whiteline Price! | We also carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us.

AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: paisan@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

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