Steering squirrely at 50 mph and above

I have a 2016 Legacy 2.5i Limited with 1500 miles. As recommended, my tires are inflated to 33F, 32R. When on the highway, the steering becomes squirrely at 50 mph and above, requiring constant corrections. It'll drive straight for up to 5 seconds or so, then decides to drift. It drifts both ways. Even on newly-paved highways. This is particularly unnerving when driving thru construction zones where barriers are set up right next to the lane; I need to be on high alert to ensure the car stays in its lane. I took it to the dealer, who checked the alignment (F and R). He made a comment that maybe what I'm experiencing is due to the electronic steering. I can't believe that a new Legacy won't drive straight down a highway. My wife and I were planning on a number of road trips in this vehicle, but now, I would prefer her old clunker. The car handles just fine below 50. Has anyone else experienced this? Or have any thoughts or recommendations?

Not with this car but a previous, a balance of the tires fixed it. Maybe uneven tire wear also

Not with this car but a previous, a balance of the tires fixed it. Maybe uneven tire wear also

 

Good idea about checking the tire balance. I'll get them checked. I only have 1500 miles, so uneven tread wear is likely not an issue. Thx. for response.

Could this be related to the steering column recall?

Could this be related to the steering column recall?

The dealer would likely have checked that since he took it in for a steering complaint.

Has the car done this from day one or has it just started occurring?

 

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I went thru the recommended engine break-in protocols, so it was only recently that I have been taking the car out on the highway. It has acted in this manner since I have been driving it at speed (i.e., over the last couple weeks).

I went thru the recommended engine break-in protocols, so it was only recently that I have been taking the car out on the highway..

 

I was under the impression the engine break-in included varied driving which would include highway driving from mile 1 - 1000. Are you saying you have been avoiding driving faster than 50 for the last 1500mi?!

Yes tire pressure, also balance, alignment, tires or wheels out of round, damaged belts are just a few things to have checked.

..........OR.......... Operator error. Over correction is a good possibility since electronic steering might be a new to you and you are not use to the point and shoot. In that case you will become familiar to the tracking in time just a little learning curve.

I was under the impression the engine break-in included varied driving which would include highway driving from mile 1 - 1000. Are you saying you have been avoiding driving faster than 50 for the last 1500mi?!

Essentially, Yes, but when I did make brief jaunts on local highways, I never kept the speed at a steady 60/65/70. I would vary the speed, and thus never had a chance to just sit back and aim.

Yes tire pressure, also balance, alignment, tires or wheels out of round, damaged belts are just a few things to have checked.

..........OR.......... Operator error. Over correction since electronic steering might be a new to you and you are not use to the point and shoot. In that case you will become familiar to the tracking in time just a little learning curve.

I thank you for the ideas, but I'm not buying the learning curve idea. Yesterday I'm driving on the PA Turnpike in a construction zone, with the lanes being defined by concrete barriers. I'm trying to stay in my lane, with semis passing me on the left, when all of a sudden the car lurches toward the barriers. I did nothing to cause that change in course. I've been driving for 46 years; I've never had a problem keeping my car in its lane. There's something wrong. But again, I do thank you for your suggestions.

Could this be related to the steering column recall?

I'll ask the Service Dept. Thx.

New tires, deep tread depth, and tread pattern are the culprit in my opinion. It will get better with time. In your shoes I might try bumping the tire pressure up to 35-36psi, that's what I typically run anyways. Not saying it will help, but it could.

[quote=Rowlette;5422737

..........OR.......... Operator error. Over correction since electronic steering might be a new to you and you are not use to the point and shoot. In that case you will become familiar to the tracking in time just a little learning curve.

 

I'm going with this. I was all over the road when I got my 3.6, also. The steering being WAY more sensitive than the car I had just traded, it took me almost a month to get the hang of it. Same with the gas peddle, I'd rocket off from a stop. And even today I still find myself taking off much quicker than I intend to. This is probably the most annoying thing about the car for me.

 

I'll give you one thing, though, if a car suddenly lurches towards the ditch with zero input from the driver the driver is going to know it and it would indicate a malfunction to me too. Good luck, let us know what you find out.

2016 2.5i here also with 14k on the clock and I haven't experienced anything like you're describing. Keep my tires at 35 psi front and rear f.w.i.w. I do a lot of highway driving with ACC set to 70 mph and the car tracks just fine.

 

 

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Similar issues here. It doesn't lurch but is sloppy over 65 and there's a vibration as well. Not a bounce the steering wheel vibration but more like whole car. Had alignment done and rebalance. That just put my steering wheel off center to the opposite side. Another visit Thursday.

 

 

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I thank you for the ideas, but I'm not buying the learning curve idea. Yesterday I'm driving on the PA Turnpike in a construction zone, with the lanes being defined by concrete barriers. I'm trying to stay in my lane, with semis passing me on the left, when all of a sudden the car lurches toward the barriers. I did nothing to cause that change in course. I've been driving for 46 years; I've never had a problem keeping my car in its lane. There's something wrong. But again, I do thank you for your suggestions.

 

Talk to the dealer immediately. Look into the recall previously mentioned. If it states anything about erratic steering, that is the culprit. Something is definitely wrong with your steering and I would personally not drive it anywhere but back to the dealer until it's fixed. If the dealer is no help contact SOA and demand a replacement vehicle. I may sound worked up but I've never liked the idea of electric steering for obvious reasons.

First off I've had my car on a track and I've been up to speeds in excess of 100 mph. It's completely stable, tracks straight, and feels solid as can be - if we had the Autobahn over here I would have no problem going flat out. So if on perfectly smooth, newly paved roads you are having significant vibration or the car is significantly pulling to one side or the other there is definitely an issue.

 

I'm going with this. I was all over the road when I got my 3.6, also. The steering being WAY more sensitive than the car I had just traded, it took me almost a month to get the hang of it. Same with the gas peddle, I'd rocket off from a stop. And even today I still find myself taking off much quicker than I intend to. This is probably the most annoying thing about the car for me.

 

I'll give you one thing, though, if a car suddenly lurches towards the ditch with zero input from the driver the driver is going to know it and it would indicate a malfunction to me too. Good luck, let us know what you find out.

 

I would agree as well.

 

The steering ratio is quite quick, which makes it more responsive and easier to maneuver but does feel kinda sketchy at first. Combined with very light EPS, minimal input force provides quite a bit of response. I suspect many of the past and present jumpy/twitchy feeling complaints are mostly due to the driver not being acclimated to how responsive the setup is. I've gotten used to it now, only time I have issues is when the road is really rough or there's some serious crosswinds, but both of those affect any car.

 

 

Similar issues here. It doesn't lurch but is sloppy over 65 and there's a vibration as well. Not a bounce the steering wheel vibration but more like whole car. Had alignment done and rebalance. That just put my steering wheel off center to the opposite side. Another visit Thursday.

 

 

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Have you tried road force balancing? When I got different wheel and tires I had them mounted and balanced at a shop with one of the Hunter machines. Absolutely NO vibration, not even the slightest bit, it's fantastic.

First off I've had my car on a track and I've been up to speeds in excess of 100 mph. It's completely stable, tracks straight, and feels solid as can be - if we had the Autobahn over here I would have no problem going flat out. So if on perfectly smooth, newly paved roads you are having significant vibration or the car is significantly pulling to one side or the other there is definitely an issue.

 

 

 

I would agree as well.

 

The steering ratio is quite quick, which makes it more responsive and easier to maneuver but does feel kinda sketchy at first. Combined with very light EPS, minimal input force provides quite a bit of response. I suspect many of the past and present jumpy/twitchy feeling complaints are mostly due to the driver not being acclimated to how responsive the setup is. I've gotten used to it now, only time I have issues is when the road is really rough or there's some serious crosswinds, but both of those affect any car.

 

 

 

 

Have you tried road force balancing? When I got different wheel and tires I had them mounted and balanced at a shop with one of the Hunter machines. Absolutely NO vibration, not even the slightest bit, it's fantastic.

I thank everyone for their input and thoughts. I WISH my car would drive straight down the Autobahn! :-)

I've never heard of road force balancing: I intend to take the car back to the dealer, ask about the steering column recall, have him check the tire balances (I'll mention road force balancing), perhaps increase tire pressure to 35 or 36, and if there doesn't seem to be a culprit yet, I'll take it back to the highway to see if I can acclimate myself to the electronic steering. Until convinced otherwise, I believe I should be able to relax and point my car straight down the highway and not be on high alert to react immediately to unexpected redirections. If I ever solve this problem, I'll share that outcome with you guys.

Take the dealer service guy with you, or better yet, have him drive your car while you ride along. Put him in your shoes.

Hunter road force balancing was a life-saver for me with a 5-Series. Selected shops have it, but as a remember, Google hunter's site and it will allow you to locate the closest one.

 

 

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Road force balancing is slightly more accurate but "balanced is balanced" (quote from a Hunter tech). Tire balancing is not going to cause his car to veer off the road.

Are we talking about tire/wheel balance or suspension balance, here? Because there's a difference.

Road force balancing is a tire balancer that mimics the tire being on the road. I'm curious to know what suspension balancing is, unless you mean an alignment?

Road force balancing is a tire balancer that mimics the tire being on the road. I'm curious to know what suspension balancing is, unless you mean an alignment?

 

Interesting, I didn't know there was such a capability.

 

Wheel balance is exactly that, the ability of a wheel to spin around it's axis without any force perpendicular to that axis on any part of the wheel. ie, it won't wobble.

 

Suspension balance is the operating difference between the front and rear suspension. In production cars it's engineered in and generally non-adjustable. In some performance and all race cars it's adjustable. In a nutshell it how the front and rear of the car handle the operating surface of the road or track, or, how much grip the front and rear of the car have compared to each other.

In production cars the engineers will balance the car's suspension in a way that will provide the commuters and grocery getters an easy to drive and predictable vehicle that will handle the majority of urban and city driving as well as highway driving with an equal and tame manner, say a balance that provides a little understeer. This is to keep the vehicle predictable while allowing the car to push rather than to swap ends if the driver gets antsy.

 

In a race car or some performance custom builds this balance is adjustable so the driver or crew can adjust the car to obtain a balance that is custom tuned for the track or road that will be driven on. Maybe the track needs more under steer as in a super speedway or maybe the driver wants a little more over steer to help on a tight and twisty road course.

Things such as spring loads, camber, caster, toe in, steering bias, and a number of other things I'm not real sharp on can be adjusted to fit the needs of the track, weather, and driver's preference.

 

Drifting has become popular for some reason that escapes me but it can be an example to demonstrate suspension balance. Cars can be set up to do this intentionally or made to do it with simple raw horse power but that's not the point.

A car that's 50/50 will drift wide and even in a tight curve. It won't spin out and it won't under steer and "push" off the curve at it's maximum performance. Rather it will slide through the curve evenly and exit straight on the other side.

A car that's 60/40 with bias on the front will over steer on the same curve because there's more traction in the front of the car than in the rear and try to spin out. Here's the popular "drifting" we see with a car sliding through curves with tires smoking and the front wheels pointed in the wrong direction of the turn, this is to counter the slide caused by the over steer.

If that same bias is reversed and the rear has more traction then the car will push off the road in the same curve. The driver will turn the wheels but the front loses traction while the rear stays planted and the car simply pushes off the road.

 

Folks can mess with the balance themselves and we see that here with people changing out parts and pieces, a really popular and cheap piece being the rear sway bar. This will affect the balance of the suspension and change the way the car acts under identical circumstances vs factory.

 

Hope this had made a little sense, I'm not really well adept at explaining things sometimes.

I understand what you are saying but this is his DD with only a couple thousand miles on the clock. If the car drives perfectly straight down the road then all of a sudden veers into the next lane, there is a problem. I have driven plenty of electronic steering assisted vehicles (maybe only 6 were Subarus) but none did what he is explaining.