CRogge Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 2005 LGT 5MT Wagon, 151k, Stage 1 tune SO, my oil consumption has been going up for a while. I replaced the PCV Valve assembly before a recent road trip, thinking (hoping) that was the culprit. Nope. I went 300 miles out, and had to add a quart at each end. Oil is dark to very dark. The car runs and pulls great. I don't hear rattling from the turbo or see clouds of smoke on heavy acceleration (blue or otherwise). I'm hoping this could be simply the oil seals on the turbo, but am I likely looking at a full engine rebuild? I have seen oil residue in the intercooler. If so, is the best option to buy an OEM shortblock, get heads rebuilt, and move everything over (while also replacing oil filtering/cooling/pumping components)? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 #ynansb. See my Shopping List. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lafta Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 Oh mayyyy-an! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 To answer your question, yes, that's the best course of action. However, while you may not need a new shortblock at the moment, due to your oil consumption issues, at 151k, it's something you should prepare for. Have you had a compression and leakdown test done? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaasaiWarrior Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 I've been driving like that for almost a year, luckily I have a 2nd vehicle that I drive most days. Check your pcv (oil on top of the engine) your turbo is probably pushing oil, and you could also be leaking anywhere else. Start saving for your new shortblock, I'll be purchasing mine within the next couple weeks and doing a rebuild. I'll be following Tris's engine rebuild list. I'd say its the most bang on accurate catalogue of parts and labor you will see on our cars. 08 Spec B, insta: @08_spec_b, 10 SH Forester insta: @shfozzy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRogge Posted February 9, 2015 Author Share Posted February 9, 2015 Thanks all. I'll get it out to the dealer for a leakdown and compression test. There aren't any good speedshops in Lawrence, KS, as far as I know. If I can get away with just a turbo replacement at this time, I may be looking at selling it (despite your excellent words of encouragement, MrTris). If it turns out I need a block and turbo, I wouldn't be able to sell it in good conscience until that's done, and then I might as well go stage 3! I might get a quote from the dealership for the rebuild, as well. With a toddler and a baby, time isn't exactly something I'm flush with. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 Thanks all. I'll get it out to the dealer for a leakdown and compression test. There aren't any good speedshops in Lawrence, KS, as far as I know. If I can get away with just a turbo replacement at this time, I may be looking at selling it (despite your excellent words of encouragement, MrTris). If it turns out I need a block and turbo, I wouldn't be able to sell it in good conscience until that's done, and then I might as well go stage 3! I might get a quote from the dealership for the rebuild, as well. With a toddler and a baby, time isn't exactly something I'm flush with. Thanks! Ugh. Expect the dealer's quote for new block, turbo, etc, plus labor to be at, or almost 8k. I'd seriously consider another option. I know there aren't a whole lot of Subaru shops in Kansas, but, maybe you can consider doing it yourself to save a few thousand bucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 I have a stupid question when you buy the short block does it come with all the stuff like the oil sensor and the oil line for the turbo or are you expected to move it over from the old block? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 I have a stupid question when you buy the short block does it come with all the stuff like the oil sensor and the oil line for the turbo or are you expected to move it over from the old block? Shortblock is the bare block; pistons, rods, crank, etc. and rear main seal installed. That's it. Longblock is that, plus heads; and anything above that is usually considered a complete engine either with or without accessories (Alt, AC, etc) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 Shortblock is the bare block; pistons, rods, crank, etc. and rear main seal installed. That's it. Longblock is that, plus heads; and anything above that is usually considered a complete engine either with or without accessories (Alt, AC, etc) ok thought so thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRogge Posted February 9, 2015 Author Share Posted February 9, 2015 So compression came back as follows: Cyl 1: 135-138 Cyl 2: 138-140 Cyl 3: 138-140 Cyl 4: 138-140 Am I correct that this might not be so bad? I have a Blackstone test Kit on order. I'm considering just buying a rebuilt VF40 for $500, replacing banjo bolt and oil return line and calling it good for now! Any input is appreciated! Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 Those numbers look good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRogge Posted February 9, 2015 Author Share Posted February 9, 2015 Crazy! Not what I was expecting... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KRM Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 change or clean out both ocv as a good preventive maintenance thing. and yes those are some good numbers. what oil are you using? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 Even though, thoughs numbers are decent (not great), you're still getting a lot of blow by. I had the same issue at 124k miles, then decided to rebuild the motor. After 25k miles on the new block (w/CP pistons), I use about 1 quart of oil between oil changes, every 5k miles. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 Well, that's a mixed blessing, frankly; now you get to hunt until you find the source of your oil leak. A full qt over essentially a tank of gas isn't very good at all. Start checking around.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted February 9, 2015 Moderators Share Posted February 9, 2015 Do you have leak down numbers also? "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted February 9, 2015 Moderators Share Posted February 9, 2015 Even though, thoughs numbers are decent (not great), you're still getting a lot of blow by. I had the same issue at 124k miles, then decided to rebuild the motor. After 25k miles on the new block (w/CP pistons), I use about 1 quart of oil between oil changes, every 5k miles. With that compression it's not likely that he's getting any blow by past the rings "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 True. Blowby from the valve covers to the intake tube is what I was really think of. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gex Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 Those vent tubes can get nasty with oil and water sludge. I just cleaned the plastic piece and got new hoses. Used an air compressor to blow the gunk out. My guess combo, turbo seal,pcv, and leaky valve cover gaskets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 True. Blowby from the valve covers to the intake tube is what I was really think of. Right, but that comes from increased crankcase pressure, which is a direct result of ring or ringland damage. . . But if the numbers are good, then. . WTFM8? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 Those vent tubes can get nasty with oil and water sludge. I just cleaned the plastic piece and got new hoses. Used an air compressor to blow the gunk out. My guess combo, turbo seal,pcv, and leaky valve cover gaskets. I agree. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 With that much oil loss, if there was an external leak there would be signs of oil on the ground. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted February 9, 2015 Moderators Share Posted February 9, 2015 A turbo with bad seals can go through quite a bit of oil. I think that's a good place to start. Pull the TMIC to check that side and pull the downpipe as well. I bet there's a ton of oil in the downpipe. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 A turbo with bad seals can go through quite a bit of oil. I think that's a good place to start. Pull the TMIC to check that side and pull the downpipe as well. I bet there's a ton of oil in the downpipe. Oil in DP would mean lots of smoke out the tailpipe, though, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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