How to Install Catless Uppipe (Invidia)

Were the dynos the stock catted up pipe vs invidia, or STI vs invidia?

Were the dynos the stock catted up pipe vs invidia, or STI vs invidia?

 

Stock Catted vs Invidia

I know this is an old thread, and I've searched...and searched, and searched a third time, but I would like to find a part number, and, or, a link to an up pipe for a 5EAT, or if anyone can PM me some info, that would be amazing.

Uppipe is the same for manual or automatic. downpipe is the one to look out for

Thank you!

What pins does the resistor plug into?

when you unplug the temperature sensor that is in the OEM up-pipe, you put it across those two terminals on the engine harness (the factory sensor is a thermistor, so you are basically providing a resistance that makes the ECU think all is well with the catalytic converter in the up-pipe - without the resistor you'll throw a code) - when I did this on my WRX, I took apart the connector to the sensor on the up-pipe, soldered the resistor between the two pins, then filled the end of the connector with sealant and plugged the connector back into the engine harness - looks a little cleaner than electrical tape, but both approaches will get the job done.

The best solution is to disable the codes with the reflash. The resistor that is suggested everywhere makes the ECU think EGT's are at 1292F, which has thrown a cell for me at times on the highway. I think using a different kohm resistor to make the ECU think it's around 700F would be best. But with Radio shack closed and with it being easier just to reflash I stopped searching for another way to skin this cat.

Why is the downpipe removed during this install? I see it in all the instruction videos

There are two nuts that are very hard, if not impossible, to reach with the downpipe there. Those two nuts are right behind the turbo (I think I have a picture of it in the first posts).

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4782.jpg

 

That would be the bracket that holds the up pipe to the block. I'll look for a better picture.

 

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4783.jpg

Edited August 15, 2015 by Max Capacity

Here you go, these two nuts are the ones that you can't get to unless you drop the downpipe.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/Exhaust/Uppipe/CIMG9694.jpg

Makes sense thanks

Awesome write up, gives a good idea of the work required. Considering doing this on my 2005 LGT.

 

Since my car is stock otherwise and this is quite a bit more flow than the catted pipe, do you think its safe to just run this pipe without any tune?

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160522/cf6298d595576a33a70048241d273ce3.jpg

 

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Awesome write up, gives a good idea of the work required. Considering doing this on my 2005 LGT.

 

Since my car is stock otherwise and this is quite a bit more flow than the catted pipe, do you think its safe to just run this pipe without any tune?

 

You Do Not need a tune for A catless up pipe, running it without a tune will not harm anything in any way. Even without a tune you should notice just a little extra torque.

Correct, all the tune will do is delete the CEL for the missing egt probe.

 

Or just stick in the 2.2k ohm resister.

I'm not able to view the photos on the walk-through post... any other places that might be located, or other walkthroughs suggested for an uppipe swap.

 

Thanks!

I'm not able to view the photos on the walk-through post... any other places that might be located, or other walkthroughs suggested for an uppipe swap.

 

Thanks!

 

Reuploaded the images and updated the post's image links

Anyways.... I just replaced my uppipe last weekend and had used THERMOTEC heat wrap on the uppipe and the manifolds since I had them off. A week later I'm still getting a burning smell from the wrap. If anyone else has used the heat wrap, does the burning smell go away?

 

 

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For those viewing this before doing this job you should think about replacing the oil return hose from the turbo while your there and remove the banjo filter on the back of the head.

 

You'll notice I chose to bolt the turbo to the up pipe in my pictures. Makes it easier to line things thing's up like the inlet tube, oil return hose and up pipe at the same time if the turbo was removed.

 

I also left the three turbo to up pipe bolts loose so you have a little more play when trying to line up the stock style tmic.

After the tmic is in place then tighten every thing up.

 

Again use anti-seize compound on all threads.

Thanks for the writeup. I did this and now that my Invidia DP is in I'm going to be throwing that on soon too.

Is it absolutely necessary to remove the headers? The repair manual for the "joint pipe" shows just removing the RH manifold cover. I'm looking at doing this when I do my turbo back and want to save as much time as possible. And if I'm taking the headers off then I'm just gonna replace them.

Taking the header off is actually pretty quick: 6 bolts and the whole thing comes off. (well after removing a few heatshields that is...)

 

 

IIRC, you do not have to remove it in order to remove the uppipe. It is a tight squeeze but it should be possible. It's been a long time though...

 

 

This reminds me I need to replace my Invidia cracked up pipe. Trying to find a 'cheap' alternative..

Taking the header off is actually pretty quick: 6 bolts and the whole thing comes off. (well after removing a few heatshields that is...)

 

 

IIRC, you do not have to remove it in order to remove the uppipe. It is a tight squeeze but it should be possible. It's been a long time though...

 

 

This reminds me I need to replace my Invidia cracked up pipe. Trying to find a 'cheap' alternative..

Not recommend but I have the stock, catted uppipe from the leggy. I'm also in Utah, but northern, so shipping would be cheap. It's free if you're interested

 

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