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Ride height confusing me


wcbjr

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I'm wondering why adjusting the ride height of a corner (right rear) by 3/4" only has the effect of 1/4" when measuring the fender gap? More importantly, is better to have the coilover lockring height the same rather than judging fender gap?
I forgot what I was supposed to remember.
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I don't understand what's so confusing?

 

Measuring fender gap is a mostly bad idea. Measure center of hub to lip of fender. You'll find more consistent measurements this way.

 

As for height, it's better to corner balance the car. You'll invariably get different heights if you do that, though. If you aren't concerned with THAT level of performance, then just make sure the hub-to-fender heights are the same left-to-right.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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You didn't really answer my question. Also, the distances from the center hub to the ground hardly make up the 1/2" measurement difference.

 

Anyone else?

I forgot what I was supposed to remember.
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How did I not answer your question?

 

Make the hub-to-fender heights the same left to right.

 

The reason you are getting inconsistent measurements of ride height is because you are trying to directly measure fender gap between the tire and fender.

 

You are leaving out some information that is pretty critical.

 

Are your coilovers independently height adjustable (adjust height independently of preload)?

 

Are the preloads left-and-right set the same?

 

Are the collar heights left-and-right set the same?

 

You need to start with the left-and-right preloads the same, and the collars at the same height. Install everything, drive it around the block, then get to adjusting heights. It is now that you adjust for hub-to-fender height.

 

The reason you cranked the right rear up 3/4" and only saw a 1/4" increase in fender gap is likely because something else is off.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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Camber, toe, caster = same all around.

 

Please tell me the geometry differences in measuring from fender to hub and fender to bottom of each tire. Assuming I am sober and can see in a straight line. Measuring from the fender, through the hub to the ground, will not be off by more than 1/32" unless for some reason the tires are differently sized across the car or one is flat.

 

Yes, the coilovers have independent ride height adjustment. Preload is same across the vehicle. Collars are the same, which showed differing fender gaps and why I wanted to change the height in the first place, and now is the source of my confusion.

 

I would like to know why the ride height doesn't change in proportion to the amount of adjustment. Once again BAC, assuming all adjustments are the same across the car, the car hasn't been in any wrecks, it was washed that day, my bowling balls are not in the car, etc.

I forgot what I was supposed to remember.
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most of the weight transfer is diagonal. if the changes in the coilover height does not change the amount of the ride height by the same amount it's time to look at the diagonal corner for something bent/broken.

 

i always went for the coilover lockring distance measurement rather than the fender to top of the tire measurement. It resulted in pretty even fender gaps up until this subaru.

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WCB, my BC BR's do adjust in height respective to how much I adjust the perch for my coilovers.

 

If you're getting inconsistent heights around all 4 corners, my 1st guess is that you're coilovers aren't properly pre-loaded, and might be too soft or too hard. Just because the distance between the locking rings are equal on all 4 corners doesn't mean the heights will be.

 

This same thing happened to me after I bought a used set of coilovers, and found it helped alot to just start over from the top down.

 

-loosen the top locking rings to the spring can rotate freely around the strut. -Tighten the locking rings gradually until you can't rotate the spring anymore with one hand using medium force

-Next I tightened it a little more gradually until I couldn't rotate the spring with 2 hands.

-Repeat the steps with the other side, and try to replicate the same amount of force.

-Once the top locking rings are secured, make sure the distance between the top locking rings and the bottom of the perch are the same on the left and right sides

-repeat for both Front and Rear

 

After I did this, lowering the distance between locking rings by 1 finger width lowered the fender gap by 1 finger also.

 

If you're still getting uneven heights, you can just eyeball it and do what you have to in order to get it matching, even if it means the locking ring gaps are different. You might have a spring that's stronger or weaker than the other, or maybe the dampers, or maybe you have some uneven weight distribution somewhere.

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That's what I ended up doing. Resetting preload, setting ride height left/right equal, then living with any uneven gap. I figure Subaru has those gaps for a reason. Car handles fine.
I forgot what I was supposed to remember.
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