greendragon Posted September 10, 2013 Share Posted September 10, 2013 The car is a 2006 GT Wagon. I'm in the process of replacing torn Control Arm bushings. No stripped or broken bolts and everything came off fairly easy except the Ball Joints. Both (left and right sides) are stuck. I've sprayed a lot of rust loosening spray (PB Blaster, Specialist WD40), used the ball joint removal fork tool and nothing. Hammer...still nothing. Tried a little heat but I'm afraid of damaging other parts of the hubs, cv's, wheel bearings. I've got to get these off so I can get the machine shop to press in the new bushings. And I don't have much time left as I'm borrowing a car to go to work and need my wagon! Any help, tips, tricks or other suggestions on how to get these Ball Joints off is greatly appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gmachine Posted September 10, 2013 Share Posted September 10, 2013 http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/steering/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-point-joint-separator-99849.html A cheaper version of one I have made by OTC,but should do the trick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greendragon Posted September 10, 2013 Author Share Posted September 10, 2013 Thanks. That would work for getting the ball joint out of the control arm, but how could I get the ball joint out of the steering knuckle? The pinch bolt came out ok, but not the ball joint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gmachine Posted September 10, 2013 Share Posted September 10, 2013 You stated you only need the arms off to press in new bushings. Leave the ball joints in the knuckle, pop off the arms and go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greendragon Posted September 11, 2013 Author Share Posted September 11, 2013 Sorry for the confusion... The ball joints are shot and must be replaced as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lockmedic Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 I've had to pull the entire spindle (knuckle) and work them out with an air chisel before. I've drilled a hole in the top of the spindle (right under the axle) and used a punch to punch them out from there. Usually that's the last step before I just toss the whole spindle and grab a used one. Damn yankee cars. . . Haven't tried this yet, but one idea I had was to use a very short length of gas pipe large enough diameter to fit over the big end of the ball joint with a very thick fender washer (or steel plate with a hole in it). . Cut the gas pipe to length so that with the fender washer/plate installed, you're just starting the threads on the tapered end of the ball joint. Start threading on the castle nut, and the ball joint will pretty much pull itself out. If you have to pull it all the way out like that, just keep adding washers. Should work. . . think I'll go cut some gas pipe down on the lathe and make myself one :-) EDIT: Someone already makes it: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1989958 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 The normal name for gas pipe around here is water pipe. A 1 1/4" DIA. should work I think. Easy to cut with a hacksaw. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 Thanks. That would work for getting the ball joint out of the control arm, but how could I get the ball joint out of the steering knuckle? The pinch bolt came out ok, but not the ball joint. The pinch bolts came out....really. those normally break off. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPeC.B_MaZTer Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 I just did this last month. The easiest way is with the entire knuckle off the vehicle. It's easier than working while still connected. With or without the HB tool(I had it but only used it on one side) keep the wheel bearing coolandwet then heat the balljoint with MAPP torch 5-10mins. let it cool for 10-15 then heat again while pulling the balljoint out using channel locks. it will slide out easily. The reason I suggest two heat sessions is the first one will really excite the grease inside and if pulled out hot the first time the ball and/or the baseplate of the BJ itself may explode. DO sand out the pinch bolt hole, and grease the new bolt. I am surprised your pinch bolt was removed without heat and not breaking. you were simply lucky, do NOT reuse that bolt! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lockmedic Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 The normal name for gas pipe around here is water pipe. A 1 1/4" DIA. should work I think. Easy to cut with a hacksaw. My NYC pumbah called it "blahck aihan payp". Don't suppose it matters what you use as it looks like the guy making (sniper something) on NASIOC wound up using exhaust pipe. Think I'd feel better using black iron or galvanized pipe. You could probably just buy a nipple and use that. Eventually I'll get a metric tap the same size as the threads on the ball joint and make one of those cool ones like sniper-whatshisface did, but in a pinch I'd say anything would work. . .even a socket if the wall height was correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greendragon Posted September 12, 2013 Author Share Posted September 12, 2013 Excellent! Thanks everyone for the advice! I'm going to try the Sniper's Tool thingy on the ball joints. Looks easy enough. I'll post results here. I did manage to get the control arms off tonight...used vice grips clamped around the upper fat end of the ball joint and used the pickle fork between the grips and the control arm and a few good whacks with Thor's hammer - did the trick! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ResidentRedneck Posted September 13, 2013 Share Posted September 13, 2013 i took a big flat head that already had the tip broke off, and hammered it into the slit on the knuckle. that worked enough to let mine come out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greendragon Posted September 28, 2013 Author Share Posted September 28, 2013 Update... I couldn't find the parts to make the ball joint remover tool so I had to spray PB Blaster and hammer and pry to get them out. Only took about 3 hours total to remove both! Surprisingly, no broken parts. Everything went back together nice and easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lockmedic Posted September 28, 2013 Share Posted September 28, 2013 I made myself one of those "sniper" type pullers. Used 3/4 x 16 tpi threaded rod and drilled & tapped the center M12x1.25, then just got a 3/4-16 nut and some big a$$ washers and a piece of pipe and it's on like donkey kong. Trouble is now I have no ball joints that need pullin'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.