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Might Sell My Car, What's it Worth?


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I am thinking of selling my 2006 Legacy GT Limited OBP with 130k on the odometer. My reason for selling is that I have made this car into my ideal race car, but I do not have a daily driver, nor money to go to the track.

 

I’ve had a few instances of bad luck with this car (1st gear in the stock tranny disintigrating, getting caught in a flood, a minor accident, the starter and most recently a rear axle clip that somehow came off) and I will be starting a job next month for which I can never be late, and car problems cannot happen. I am not worried about encountering issues, I just need a low-mileage car that is stock in order to minimize my risks, plus I'm getting some pressure from my wife...

 

 

I bought this car in 2008 with 33K on it. I went stage II shortly thereafter, then a VF52, and finally the current BNR 68hta at 85k miles. I am trying to gauge how much I could get for it, because before I think about selling it, I need to know my budget for another car. I will end up keeping this car if I cannot find a fun, reliable car without putting in any additional money.

 

I have installed the following mods:

 

Exterior

Homemade S402 Grill

OEM headlights with RX300 retrofit, cleared corners

 

Exhaust

STI uppipe

Megan Racing Downpipe

Perrin Mid/Y

STI axleback, modified to mate to Perrin y

 

Engine (Completed at 120k)

Mahle 4032 8.5:1 pistons 99.75mm

2012 STI crankshaft

Eagle H-Beam rods

King main and rod bearings

ARP head studs

OEM gasket set w/ new half moon gaskets

 

Heads rebuilt and case halves cleaned and bored to 99.75- Ridge Reamer Denver, CO

Engine assembled by myself with help from two ASE certified master mechanics with a combine 40 years experience, including numerous engine builds.

(Build thread http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/build-critique-and-questions-213763p2.html)

 

Transmission (completed at 120k)

STI swap with 90K

Transmission (rear bearings have 30k, 4th gear rebuild at same time)

Rear Diff

Legacy NA 4EAT driveshaft

New Spec B rear axles

 

Turbo

BNR 68HTA with upgraded AVO actuator

Turbo has approximately 60k on it, but new bearings and seals were installed at 120k by BNR

Cobb Heatshield

 

Intake

AEM CAI

FMS knock-off of Process-West TMIC. Welds are much better than others I have seen.

AVO TB hose

 

Suspension

OEM struts with Cobb lowering springs

Also included are a set of Tein Flex Coilovers in need of a rebuild ($500 for complete rebuild from Tein)

Cobb sways front and rear

Front Rallitek HD endlinks

Avo +.5 LCA bushings

 

Brakes

Goodridge SS lines F/R

DBA 4000 Front 2-piece rotors, slotted

Uknown brand rear slotted rotors

Will include Carbotech XP10 front pads with one track day of use

 

I have taken excellent care of the car, and have performed the following recent maintenance (in addition to oil changes with Shell Rotella at 3-3.5k)

 

92K

R motor mount

Turbo Inlet

Avo +.5 LCA bushings

Infamous in-line oil filter

 

100k

Rebuilt all 4 calipers

PCV replaced

Rear brake pads

KillerB oil pickup tube

KillerB oil pan baffle tray

 

120k

Water pump

Oil pump (11mm)

Timing Belt and pulleys (Gates)

A/C accessory belt

Radiator

Upper and lower radiator hoses

L motor Mount

Ground wires

Clutchmaster FX400 clutch

Sti OEM flywheel

Clutchmaster TOB

Front right LGT remanufactured axle

AC recharged

 

127k

Starter

Rear diff fluid (Subaru gear oil)

Stock struts (40k) with Cobb Springs (less than 20k) installed

 

128K

New Continental Extremecontact DW Tires

4EAT driveshaft replaced with shaft with 130K

Front left axle replaced with reman axle

Rallitek HD front endlinks (with 30k)

New windshield & Molding

 

130K

Flywheel professionally resurfaced

Clutchmasters FX300 installed

 

The bad:

Was in a minor accident last fall that resulted in replacement of hood, bumper and bumper beam. I was given replacement TYC headlights, but could not deal with the decreased light, so I re-installed the retrofitted headlights that each have a broken tab. As a result, the fitment is not perfect.

 

The paint cracked when the fenders were rolled, hardly noticeable.

 

Small dents, paint chips on hood, and scratches on rear bumper, along with 6” key mark on trunk.

 

Interior has some scratches and scrapes, slightly more than would be expected from 9 year old car.

 

The 17x8 MB Gear-R rims have some curb rash, and on one, curb rash would be an understatement. It balances out, but barely.

 

I removed the fog lights to make brake ducts, but kept the covers.

 

The Megan Racing downpipe is pretty junky. The workmanship was terrible, so I attempted to learn how to weld by fixing cracks behind the flange. It has an electric dump (like TRSCobra’s) that is welded in, but closed permanently, as the motor stopped working. The DP holds air, but does not look pretty

 

 

 

The good:

Mechanically, this car is a beast. The new engine has not burned any oil and was properly broken in, as was the clutch.

 

After an unfortunate run-in with a parking garage with a bike on the roof, I just picked the car up from having the dents fixed. The roof, a-pillars, and top of the rear quarter panel look brand-new.

 

Continental Extremecontact DW 245/40/17 installed at 128k.

 

Uhaul hitch at wiring harness installed at 128k.

 

OEM wheels with some curbage and General Altimax snow tires with 4/32 will be included.

 

OEM DP that is literally new is included.

 

Currently Cryo tuned for 91 octane @18psi

 

Thoughts on what I can sell this car for would be greatly appreciated!

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After reading "accident" and "flood", best of luck. These cars have seemingly taken a pretty good hit in recent time. For a "guestimate" on what a tastefully modded LGT goes for take a look at Hicksta's '08 that recently sold for a song, under $14k I believe.

 

You've put so much work into the car that you'll just never get back. With a 6mt in there, a working motor, and a bunch of aftermarket parts, it's potentially worth more in parts than what someone can get a loan for, just something to keep in mind!

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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Thanks for the input. I know it won't be worth a lot, which is why I'm very hesitant to sell it. Anything I could buy for the same money would be a huge disappointment.

 

The other thing that makes it so hard to think about selling it is that I've replaced literally every powertrain part in the last 10k, so it's more reliable than it's ever been. I may just have a probationary 6 month period, where if I have to replace anything other than oil/filter and gas, I'll get rid of it.

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Keep it and find a cheap beater that's reliable in the event you need it. Truthfully the beater will be more MPG friendly unless you get a truck that is useful in hauling parts and the engine/trans. Don't ever assume a brand new DD is the safest way to go. My eco has been in the dealership every other month since ownership and broke down on me once in the middle of a road trip letting me know how crappy OnStar is.
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Keep the car. It sounds like the car was well-maintained, has been modded to your standards, and is "more reliable than it's ever been". You'll take a massive hit if you sell it, and buying a replacement car will likely just add to the overall deficit (in expectations, financial situation, and quality). At this point, you're probably better off picking up a beater as a "just in case" car and keeping the LGT.
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Keep you have more money in parts than as a whole car sadly. Like BMB stated Legacys are going thru a odd valuation period KBB, NADA and blackbook dont all agree. KBB think Legacy GT = Porsche 911 :lol: the other two, a 98 Corolla :lol:

 

Hold on to the car enjoy it if you dont mind lose the money youve dumped in sell around ~$8500 ish :redface: part it to stock then sell as stock. MOre hassle but tis the game we play.

 

Good luck, I would button up the bad parts namely that DP and ditch the brake ducts for the fogs for a better curb appeal :) should you sell

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Yeah, I think I will hold onto it. My car is exactly what I want, but not what most others would want.

 

I would really like to have a 3rd car between the two of us, but that isn't in the cards financially right now. I proposed my best option to my wife of me buying a Honda Ruckus as backup, but she did not approve. Once I start this job, I'll have a little more leeway for an old civic or something.

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I've got the same car as you (06 OBP LGT LTD) with a similar engine build and 6 speed swap that I just finished. After all I've been through building it, the thought of ever selling it makes me sad. No sense building it and selling it not long after.

 

OP, enjoy your LGT, be proud of it, have fun with it, drive it till the wheels fall off. :)

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yeah dude, stick it out. you have such a stellar build, and all that you've gone through with the mega-rain and engine rebuild.

 

get a motorcycle or a scooter.

we can talk to your wife for you.

in fact, you should just buy my girlfriend's vespa. its a 150cc so legal for highway travel.

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Thanks everyone for re-convincing me. I got really discouraged after the rear axle clip ended up costing me $1500 (clutch replaced then rear axle issue fixed) and understood for the first time how much paying someone else to fix my car costs.

 

In Denver, I had full access to a complete shop along with expert advice. This allowed me to learn a great deal about working on my car, and I'm pretty sure I've turned every bolt on it at this point. I do want to keep it until the wheels fall off, and hopefully I can.

 

As for the Vespa, I never should have told my wife about the Ducati 900 Monster I wrecked in college. The only two-wheeler I'll be allowed to own from now on is my bicycle.

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