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Maintenance suggestions for '05 GT with 98K miles?


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Hey guys 'n' gals. :)

 

My car is an '05 GT Ltd. sedan and has about 98,500 mi. on it. I just flashed to Cobb stage 1 (v1.16 for now... ordered a serial-to-USB adapter for the AP v1, so I'll upgrade to v1.18 later) yesterday, and so far I love it. Much smooooooother with a nice extra kick!

 

Obviously, regular maintenance is wisest. Since the maintenance sticky thread isn't any good now, with TheL7.com being taken down, what's the suggestion for about 100K on a GT? I bought the car last summer with about 86K on it.

 

Check fluids and change the plugs seem obvious, but what else? I'll probably do the Extra-S trans. fluid from Jeremy at FBP, so I'm aware of that one already. :)

 

Thanks!

S2

 

ps - After the maintenance... my power mod plans are simple: stage 2 after I buy a DP and CBE. Turbo/intercooler upgrade if I feel ambitious, but it's unlikely. Suspension's getting upgraded by Spring, tires are already done. First thing I want is probably a JDM rear swaybar, if I can find one used.

 

I'm a pretty simple guy. :D

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Suspension upgrade: Please upgrade springs AND struts, and make sure they "match"... too many people out there just putting on stiffer springs on stock struts, and then damaging the stock strut. Do it right the first time.

 

At some point, with Stg2, you may need a clutch - be prepared for that.

 

Don't blindly trust the OTS cobb maps - they aren't always good/accurate and you could be running a "bad" condition. Do some datalogging, and post the logs here asking for advice, and make sure it's a safe tune.

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I've been reading a bit of that, today. Hmm I've never done datalogging, but obviously the directions are included with the AP for that, so I'll see what I can do! I will be moving up to v1.18 as soon as I get my cable adapter, so that's a start.

 

I was initially, suspension-wise, looking at Bilstein HDs with Racecomp's "Regular Guy" springs, but they (as a project) got canceled. So, now I'm hunting for springs. There's a set of Cobbs for sale that I'm considering, but some say they ride rather low. I'm looking for a relatively mild drop. The fronts on the Cobb set are 1.75" and that's a bit steep, for my liking.

 

Yeah I'm ready for a clutch upgrade, if need be. :) That said though, I'm a pretty tame driver - and not by "forum guy" standards. By forum guy standards, "tame" means I still shift at 4500rpm. :D I'm pretty much a 2500-3Krpm shifter, except this morning when I was discovering the new map. Even then, beyond one highway ramp excursion... it was the regular commute.

 

Back to springs, I was following bosco's feedback on the Eibach Pro Kit springs, matched to stock struts. I'm normally VERY against putting aftermarket springs on stock struts, as I've been around the block many times and know better. However some of the more reasonable posters made the argument that the stockers are rather stout, by OEM standards.... and the Pro Kit springs had a mild drop.

 

However... most places aren't selling the springs anymore, so I'm back to square one. Which, right now, is iON Sport Spec springs, with a very comfortably mild drop, except that the price is a bit steep. So, we'll see. In the meantime, I'll hunt for a RSB (JDM probably, used) to counter the body roll.

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Hmm, I don't see 1.17 on their PDF for 1.18 and rev history. I'll have to check in to it. :)

 

 

Alright, so, back to the OP...

 

Water pump (which I'd considered, but good suggestion)

Fluids

Plugs (one dealer said they're every 60K, but I've no idea if the original owner did them at the 60K mark)

Timing belt, yeah probably a good idea

 

 

Anything else?

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Datalogging is not a function of the AP - read up on logging here at the forum... there are stickies somewhere about how to do this. I think you can use the AP cable to do it (have been able to in the past).

 

Shifting late doesn't mean you're gentle on the clutch... once the clutch is engaged, you can shift as late as you want with no further wear on it... the wear happens during engagement or because there is too much torque from the motor - most of these motors seem to have high-torque at lower-revs anyway...

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Datalogging is not a function of the AP - read up on logging here at the forum... there are stickies somewhere about how to do this. I think you can use the AP cable to do it (have been able to in the past).

 

Shifting late doesn't mean you're gentle on the clutch... once the clutch is engaged, you can shift as late as you want with no further wear on it... the wear happens during engagement or because there is too much torque from the motor - most of these motors seem to have high-torque at lower-revs anyway...

 

True, but shifting like someone who isn't a maniac, does. :D That and I started driving a standard in 1992, so I'm pretty decent. I'm no Petter Solberg, but...

 

 

Thanks for the info on the data logging. I didn't have much of a chance for research today, too busy at work.

 

 

Joe,

 

Yeah the major fluids are all in my gameplan! I also just heard about the nice little oil pickup tube issue... lovely. If I do anything semi-serious like the water pump and timing belt.... that'll probably be checked in to, as well.

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You can be hard on your clutch without redline-shifting... the two are totally unrelated. I had a friend who was very gentle on his car, but always toasted his clutch... why? Because he would slip it a lot when pulling out, amongst other things. And that was on a car with a low-torque motor...

 

My point it, redline-shifting doesn't have to be hard on the clutch... being hard on the clutch is it's "own thing".

 

Granted, as you seem to imply, people who drive hard might be harder on their clutch... but not always... if you know how to clutch properly, then you don't have to drive like a grandma...

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