rear camber plates?

I'd like to get about 2.5 degrees negative camber at my rear wheels, and my roadracing club does not allow adjustable control arms. Is there another way? I'm not aware that camber plates are available for the rear. BTW, I'm using Megan coilovers.

 

Thanks

camber plates dont work on the rear because its multilink and not macpherson strut. Only way is with adjustable links

yes, get custom shorter lateral links with an eccentric bolt as your adjuster.

I should have known that

 

Thanks for the response sgt.

And Xenonk, the problem is that the club rule book specifies what's legal (in this case, camber can be changed using camber plates or eccentric bolts). Anything not specified is illegal. That makes replacing lateral links illegal. A dumb way to write rules in my opinion.

so switch out the bolts to eccentric.. that's how the stock eccentric bolt for the major arm is for toe adjustment.. you just need to swap out the two that holds the minor (front one of the two lateral rears) to eccentric ones.

 

How much camber are you trying to get?? I run about -1.75 by default of lowering the car using coilovers and that's more than enough for me. I just have my toe readjusted to the ride height to give me zero toe right now..

Are eccentric bolts readily available for this application?

just generic eccentric that you can get from most alignment places.

 

you will also need to slot the hole.

Thank everyone

Why do you need more camber in the rear? It's always been the front for me that needs the most I can get.. The rear hasn't been a problem.

Camber is about providing enough negative attitude to allow race tires to work. With coilovers and pillow ball uppers in the front, 2-2.5 degrees negative (what most race tire manufacturers recommend as a minimum) is easy to come by. Not so easy in the rear because of the multilink suspension. Another way to put it is that, camber is about grip, while front to rear handling balance is adjusted by changing spring tension - including the use of sway bars. If you are having a problem with the front end washing out, a stiffer rear sway bar make the car seem to handle better. However, if you don't have enough negative camber for the tires you're running, you won't be going as fast through the corners as you could be. Make sense?

I normally just drop the pressure a little bit, you'll end up building up heat on them anyways.. I havent gotten the rear outside shoulders to be hotter than the middle or inside shoulders.. hitting 185s to 190s on my r-compounds is good enough for me across the board.. I havent spiked a 230-yet on the fronts other than on the inside shoulders due to straight line braking on a very warm summer day...

And that's with -1.75? What tire? I'm running RA-1s until I get beaten, and then it's Hoosiers.

And that's with -1.75? What tire? I'm running RA-1s until I get beaten, and then it's Hoosiers.

 

yes, I run -1.75 for the rear..

 

I ran on Pirelli Corsas in the past with 235/40/18s, ran on numerous amounts of Dunlop Super Sports in 225/40/18.. also ran on 225/40/18 Yokohama A048s MHs, and about 3 sets of Kumho V700s in 245/40/17s..

 

I havent tried the RA-1s on the car yet (eventhough I have a full tread set that's my backup rain tire in a 235/40/17 size), I havent used an Avon or Hoosier yet either.. there's also Hankook's version I want to try and also Nitto NT-01s I would like to try as well..