Torque specs needed timing belt pulleys etc

Someplace on my computer is the service manual PDF for the 1995 2.2 SOHC but I can't find it.

 

When doing the timing belt I bought the kit with (belt, 1 Tensioner, 1 Hydraulic Tensioner, 3 Idlers, 1 Water pump) and I need to know the torque figures for the bolts.

 

If none I can just use the old tighten it until it feels good and snug.

i know the 4 idlers on a 2.5 are 59 ft lbs. just put mine back together...

i redid my 95 2.2 a long time ago, found all the info i needed in the sticky at the top of the page. here is the timing set up with tq from it

 

http://i60.tinypic.com/2wmmkvt.jpg

Shit! I didn't see that you said 2.5.

 

I used the torque figures and the last bolt pulled the threads out. Not sure what to do now.

 

i know the 4 idlers on a 2.5 are 59 ft lbs. just put mine back together...

i doubt the torque spec for the ej25 is different, but i do not know.

i would have to look it up.

 

but i think that 59 should have been a 29.

 

your best solution is a helicoil.

unless there are more threads ,

deeper in the hole,

that did not strip,

that a longer bolt might reach.

 

as long as you reach 29 ft lbs you should be ok.

Yuck!!!

 

I really want to place another letter in that yuck

 

I am screwed becuase I can't tighten the bolt on the tension idler. WTF --- 29 is very far from 59.

 

i doubt the torque spec for the ej25 is different, but i do not know.

i would have to look it up.

 

but i think that 59 should have been a 29.

 

your best solution is a helicoil.

unless there are more threads ,

deeper in the hole,

that did not strip,

that a longer bolt might reach.

Link to fsm's:

 

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/

 

O.

Shit! I didn't see that you said 2.5.

 

I used the torque figures and the last bolt pulled the threads out. Not sure what to do now.

 

the page i posted was from the 2.2 1995 FSM, no worries there. i just did the same thing on my 2.5, but i also have a 1995 2.2 wagon that i did the same thing to. i had the same issue when i did the 2.5, ended up heli coiling the last pulley bolt when the threads came out on me. im pretty sure it was caused by a bad torque wrench tho. still sucked.

 

edit: and the 59 should have been 57, but still 59 is within the +- factor. i set mine to 59 with no issues once i had a good torque wrench. also, i was looking at the diagram above, the idlers are labeled as T3 and not T4 like the ej25, that torque listing is much lower than the 57.9 used on the ej25.

also, when i was talking to a friend at a speed shop about the stripped bolt, he told me when they build a high HP sti motor they automatically pull all the timing components and helicoil them when they are building the motor, as well as all the head studs. he said it was preventative maintenance, since they had seen so many heads stretched off with the pressure.

Yep.... my mantra is crap happens.

 

If it can go wrong it will go wrong. At least that bracket is removable is that makes it easier for heli-coil. Will heli-coil this morning.

 

I can say this --- with the bracket off it would have made the water pump install a lot easier.

 

the page i posted was from the 2.2 1995 FSM, no worries there. i just did the same thing on my 2.5, but i also have a 1995 2.2 wagon that i did the same thing to. i had the same issue when i did the 2.5, ended up heli coiling the last pulley bolt when the threads came out on me. im pretty sure it was caused by a bad torque wrench tho. still sucked.

 

edit: and the 59 should have been 57, but still 59 is within the +- factor. i set mine to 59 with no issues once i had a good torque wrench. also, i was looking at the diagram above, the idlers are labeled as T3 and not T4 like the ej25, that torque listing is much lower than the 57.9 used on the ej25.

I can say this --- with the bracket off it would have made the water pump install a lot easier.

 

i agree, lol. its even easier when the engine is out of the car and on a stand.

I've stripped a pulley bolt before so I feel your pain, lol. But my motor was on a stand which made the helicoil really easy to install. It might be a tight fit to get a drill (unless you have a 90 degree angle drill) in there to enlarge the hole for the helicoil. Did you remove your radiator already?

the page i posted was from the 2.2 1995 FSM, no worries there. i just did the same thing on my 2.5, but i also have a 1995 2.2 wagon that i did the same thing to. i had the same issue when i did the 2.5, ended up heli coiling the last pulley bolt when the threads came out on me. im pretty sure it was caused by a bad torque wrench tho. still sucked.

 

edit: and the 59 should have been 57, but still 59 is within the +- factor. i set mine to 59 with no issues once i had a good torque wrench. also, i was looking at the diagram above, the idlers are labeled as T3 and not T4 like the ej25, that torque listing is much lower than the 57.9 used on the ej25.

 

The timing idler pulley is no more than 32ft/lbs (28.9+-2.9) doesnt matter if its a 2.2 or 2.5

Thats why the threads came off. Even at 57 thats double from the minimum side.

http://i60.tinypic.com/23hu6c9.jpg

 

straight from the 1996 FSM for the dohc engine, you can see the pulleys are listed as T4 not T3. only one i did at 30 is the tensioner pulley, which doesnt have a spec listed on this page.

regrettably it also lists the crank bolt a 95 ft lbs.

and the actual spec is 135 ft lbs.

if you use the 95 ft lb spec,

the bolt will back off and the pulley and sprocket end up hammering the crank key way.

eventually the sprocket will move enough to throw off the timing.

 

i do not know if these specifications were accurate when printed or if they have since been updated,

but i do know that they are not correct.

the proof is in the pudding.

 

i also find it hard to believe that the cam bolt is torqued less than the idler bolts.

 

just my opinion.

regrettably it also lists the crank bolt a 95 ft lbs.

and the actual spec is 135 ft lbs.

if you use the 95 ft lb spec,

the bolt will back off and the pulley and sprocket end up hammering the crank key way.

eventually the sprocket will move enough to throw off the timing.

 

i do not know if these specifications were accurate when printed or if they have since been updated,

but i do know that they are not correct.

the proof is in the pudding.

 

i also find it hard to believe that the cam bolt is torqued less than the idler bolts.

 

just my opinion.

 

totally agree on the cam torque and the main crank. main will be 135 when i put it on, cams are at 50. the block held 58 tq just fine for all the idlers. when i was testing the stripped one, the tq was over 75. i felt it slip, so i gabbed a newer tq wrench and went up from 20 to see where it was at. turns out the first wrench was a bit off, i got to 75 before it started to turn. bad torque wrench, since i had it set to 40 at the time. sucked, but not something i could really expect to happen regularly.