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What'd you do to your FIRST Gen. Subaru today?


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In Utah you don't need a notary.

 

I need to get under the SS soon, the inhibitor switch needs to be adjusted because I can't shift into park all the way. It's a pita because the downpipe blocks access to the switch and I have to take it off to get at it.

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Put my jl audio speakers in the front doors, finished up the install of the nav unit, ran the gps and xm ant'. Found my missing rear speaker brackets and a new door panel at pick and pull. So thats' more like what did i do this week, but it is def sounding better inside.

 

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm311/scoobydoo731/Legacy/2012-07-30_18-10-48_410.jpg

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When you say speaker bracket, do you mean the speaker spacer? I love jl audio, are thos components? If so where's the tweets? Mirror location? I bought 6.5" infinity reference components and screwed the tweeter right next to the speaker, I also had to buy an aftermarket spacer to fit the extra depth of the infinitys. The closer the mid/tweet are the less seperation of frequencies therefore producing better sound.! Most factory's don't consider this as a tweeter right in your face has more sex apeal.

Are you gonna use an amp or the headunit to power the jls? If using the headunit i recommend upgrading the power wire to it.

Lets see pics of that navigation.

Edited by USLiberty
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Today I let the motor run till the water temp in the motor reaches 96°C before the fans kicked on. Boiling is about 114°c in my motor. I also drove it around the colesac and slipped the clutch a bit. Everything felt great and with the air filter in the fender now the hks bov chirp is more noticeable with less intake noise and I already feel a quicker spool up with ported exhaust. Just waiting on the legal bs.also I will bgin bodywork soon. This thing was hit by a sideways hailstorm or was driven around in one.its going to be Lots of work to make a 400$ maaco paint job look decent. I'm going to paint the same color except flat. http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u386/onefastlt/IMG_20120803_131504.jpg and here's the motor before the cold air intake, I couldn't resist custom building a rockstar oil catch can/breather. Can't wait to weigh this thing and see how much lighter it is. http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u386/onefastlt/IMG_20120730_132542.jpg Edited by USLiberty
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Here's my cold air intake. http://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u386/onefastlt/IMG_20120804_143630.jpgIt really quiets the car from the previous setup. A small conical filtr is in the fender and the bov chirp isn't overtaken by the intake noise. It sounds likeit lookshttp://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u386/onefastlt/IMG_20120804_143640.jpghttp://i1065.photobucket.com/albums/u386/onefastlt/IMG_20120804_143610.jpg
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I use a link plus standalone engine management that uses air density principal to figure fuel/ignition curves. Instead of a mass air flow it uses throttle position and manifold pressure to determine zones. I also blocked off my iacv (idle air control valve) as it is not needed either, except it requires a little throttle to cold start, but IMO its one thing less that can go wrong. It wont pass a visual emission inspection but here there's no emissions required. If you could get the visual passed the ecm actually burns really clean and could be fine tuned to pass a sniffer test. And since emissions inspections don't have awd dynoes they can only rev the motor in nuetral making it less fuel zones to tune. I love the standalone but it took a long time to become comfortable enough to tune on the fly with tye handheld controller.heres a video of me testng a glock 45 yesterday before I buy one, great gun! Although the factory sights blow, ill probably upgrade those day one. http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid1065.photobucket.com/albums/u386/onefastlt/VID_20120805_144331.mp4 Edited by USLiberty
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I tried to get a couple in the dark pics of the nav and tweeter location. I'm using jl audio c5 650's up front. I surface mounted the tweeters to keep them close to the woofers. Not as sexy but the jl audio instructions even tell you to keep them as close as possible. I ended up using 1 inch speaker spacers but probably would have been easier with 3/4 or maybe half. The rears i just picked up some polk db components, not as nice but i don't think the rears are nearly as important and i went with something easier to mount. I'm eventually going to get a mcintosh 4 channel to power everything. Even with just the two hooked up to the head unit it sounds awesome. I threw in a pic of the bracket/spacer i was missing as well. I was lucky there was two sedans and a wagon at pick and pull last week. Don't mind the water dripping into the tweeter it had been raining and opening the door created that little stream you see.

 

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm311/scoobydoo731/Legacy/2012-08-06_20-43-53_438.jpg

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm311/scoobydoo731/Legacy/2012-08-06_20-45-09_354.jpg

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm311/scoobydoo731/Legacy/2012-08-06_20-44-54_597.jpg

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Its an electromotive link plus standalone /wire in ecm. About 2500$ for everything back then. Now you can get one for around 1000$ -1250$ with the controller and proper ignitors. Outfrontmotorsports.com is where I get my tuning done, he's been building subarus for sandrail use for a long time. I don't think they make the v10 link plus anymore, they have better stuff now, mine kinda outdated(2001) They can build harnesses also but I did my own, not for the amateur electrician. Why dump that kind of money when you can get a jdm wrx motor with a harness?
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I'm pretty sure the MAF in a WRX is much smaller.

It was just a sensor that stuck in the pipe instead

having its own enclosure.

 

scoobydoo73: I hate that freakin blue. My brother had

it in his first Subaru haha Looks good though. I like those

tweeters in the doors. Seems like a good spot where you

wont hit them. Looks good, man :D

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I don't think the wrx maf is smaller than a N/A maf, the wrx motor moves a ton more air than an na. but I don't know for sure. Maf sensors usually give off a 1-5volt signal so as long as the maf plug is the same it should work. I don't know for sure though, I'm a journeyman wireman by trade, so I would get my fluke multimeter out and check the resistance of the wrx maf to see if its the same as yours.

You could go with something like that megasquirt apexi super afc or some kind of fuel controller but your limited to adjusting fuel only and the super afc just tricks the factory ecu to think there's more air coming in than there really is. Its a cheap mod but you wont get the full potential out of that motor. That's why I say do a motor/ecu swap, its easier and cheaper in the end. How much power are you expecting from that na motor?

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I was just noting that it was a different kind

of MAF than what's on the Legacy. The Legacy

has an enclosed unit whereas the WRX has a

MAF that drops into the tube.

 

Although I probably missed an important part of this

conversation somewhere.

 

http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/attachments/f51/4486d1259552481-idle-fuel-air-senors-wrx-maf-sensor.gif

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I evacuated my ac with a vacuum pump, thought i had the leaks taken care of but after charging the system with r134 i noticed the leaks around the dryer connectors. 40$ down the drain, but today I replaced the orings on the dryer and recharged everything. Seems to work great now, only time will tell if I got it fixed. I also had a minor oil leak from a turbo oil return line that I had used a factory hose clamp. So I replaced it with a better clamp and hope the problem is fixed. Besides the little things the sleeper is running great. Running Little rich but I have some tuning to do now that I am getting cold air and its summer time I need to start storing some tuning changes my ecm is trying to make.
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There are a few pipes that work with it. But I am more worried about cut and pasting the wires from the old one to the newer wrx one

I'll be the first to admit that I'm electrically

dumb. You could always ask the guys over

at Legacycentral

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