CovertRussian's 05 LGT Build Thread

Got the clutch in yesterday!

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Drivetrain/Clutch/Exedy_15804_Stage1Kit.jpg~original

 

Now waiting for a forum member to remove their 07+ Flywheel and send me the pics

do you plan to use the Tranquil TSK3 Sleeve Kit?

i actually bought the same clutch kit to pair with flywheel 12342AA090

do the transquil kit is best to have ?

The TSK3 is a very good investment, if or when the OEM TOB decides to blow up, it can shear off the trans snot. When mine blew it left a lot of scoring around the snot, but luckily I caught it in time before it did more damage.

I'm planning on using the stock replacement TOB, if my snout is still good. Previous owner said he had it replaced before he sold it (why couldn't he do the clutch at the same time...).

I did the tsk3 as a preventative/sacrificial maneuver.

I did the tsk3 as a preventative/sacrificial maneuver.

 

I just might too, but $200 is a bit harsh right now . Plus people saying that they don't last any longer then OEM TOB's doesn't help.

 

Though if OEM TOB's go out because of external issues (like bad grounds) and not quality issues, then any brand TOB would not last either.

It's not so much the TOB, it's the metal sleeve that goes over the snot, it will save it when the TOB blows up.

Correct, but the metal sleeve gets destroyed when TOB bearings lock up, thus TOB starts spinning with the pressure plate.

 

I'm actually surprised TOB bearings are exposed in general, with how dusty clutches and what not...

I've had the boost gauge teed into the MAP sensor for a while:

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/Boost/20151110_195341.jpg~original

 

Since I relocated the FPR feed to the BOV, I had a spare port on Cylinder 4. Plus the nipple covers love to crack and leak boost, even Cobb mentions this about their kit.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/Boost/20151110_194934.jpg~original

 

Ran the boost gauge to the 4th cylinder:

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/Boost/20151110_201426.jpg~original

 

Back to stock lines for the map sensor, removing the possibility of the tee affecting the readings incase it springs a leak.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/Boost/20151110_201405.jpg~original

 

Now this led to an interesting problem with the boost gauge, at full boost and around 4k rpm the needle bounces around violently between 10-15psi. I think the gauge might be showing the pulses of the cylinder, which would of course explain why FPR wouldn't be happy with this feed too. Here's the quick video of what's going on, I gotta fix this before it destroys my boost gauge.

http://vid160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/Boost/Boost%20Gauge%204th%20Cyl.mp4

Edited November 17, 2015 by covertrussian

Since I relocated the FPR feed to the BOV, I had a spare port on Cylinder 4. Plus the nipple covers love to crack and leak boost, even Cobb mentions this about their kit.

 

What prompted you to move the FPR to the BOV line?

 

FWIW, my last car's boost gauge started this in vacuum after I put cams in. I never "fixed" it. But I remember reading about people putting a small piece of foam or something into the line to dampen the noise.

 

I'm getting ready to install my gauges and have been questioning where to tap the boost gauge, not totally keen on the BOV, MAP sensor, or a shaky needle. I suppose if there is no way around a shaky needle where you tapped it, then the MAP sensor it is...with a brass fitting.

 

edit: nvm about the FPR line. Poking around the links in post #1 answered my question. Thank you. Now to add more stuff to my list...

Edited November 17, 2015 by cBax

This post should cover it well: FPR Vacuum Line Relocation

 

Interesting on foam, that 100% explains why there if a foam filter inline with factory map sensor! I thought that was for soaking up PCV oil that might blow through. I got a spare filter that I'll put inline and see if it helps!

 

Now this makes me wonder if putting that filter inline with FPR would be beneficial too!

This post should cover it well: FPR Vacuum Line Relocation

 

Interesting on foam, that 100% explains why there if a foam filter inline with factory map sensor! I thought that was for soaking up PCV oil that might blow through. I got a spare filter that I'll put inline and see if it helps!

 

Now this makes me wonder if putting that filter inline with FPR would be beneficial too!

 

Thank you. I saw that post after I asked the question. And thanks again for organizing your thread so well.

 

I'm interested to see what you find. If it is foam, that is most likely why it's there. I thought it was a one way valve so the sensor only measured vacuum.

The link was more for other members who come across your post and can easily locate it .

 

I'll try to get it wired into my boost gauge line tonight and will let you know, I'm very curious now too. The white valve is definitely two way, since stock MAP sensor reads boost and vacuum (but a very narrow vacuum range). Last week I blew into the valve both ways and had no flow issues in either direction.

Those pulses in vac lines make it very difficult to tune ECUs that use MAP-based fueling (such as the Megasquirt in my Miata) without a line filter. Small lawn mower fuel filters do a pretty good job if you don't have a spare stock part lying around.

http://static.hardwarestore.com/media/product/283275_front500.jpg

 

The pulses of course are coming from the intake valves opening and closing, so sourcing the line closer to those valves or only in one cylinder's runner is not ideal. The filter should smooth these out to the point of being negligible for a boost gauge.

Put the OEM MAP filter inline with my boost gauge, needle is still just as violent as it was before. How much it bounces around is nuts, seriously no wonder the FPR wasn't happy at all. Maybe this is why Subaru switched to the different type of the FPR then traditional ones.

What did you end up using for a cap on cyl4?

Still have the gauge there, until I find a new manifold feed I'll just keep the gauge there. I will not be using another one of those <insert-parts-store-here> caps, years of experience always delivered the same cracked results.

 

In the past I've used a real hose with a bolt in it and a clamp. That seems to work well enough....

Great, thanks. Your build here is super inspiring and pretty much in line with what my goals are. Thanks for doing all this!

Finally got tired of the fogged headlights, I buffed them out with an electric buffer and compound last year but that didn't last at all. Figured I would try out the $8 Turtle Wax polishing and refinish kit that's sold at Walmart.

 

Passenger headlight was the worst:

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Exterior/Headlights/20151115_162307.jpg~original

 

I didn't grab any pictures of the process, but it's really straight forward, just follow the directions on the box...

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Exterior/Headlights/20151117_084422.jpg~original

 

 

Before:

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Exterior/Headlights/20151115_162258.jpg~original

 

After:

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Exterior/Headlights/20151117_084458.jpg~original

 

It's surprising by how much newer the car starts looking by having nice and clean headlights. Hopefully this kit lasts a while and keeps them looking this way for a while

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Exterior/Headlights/20151117_084345.jpg~original

Edited November 19, 2015 by covertrussian

Finally got tired of the fogged headlights, I buffed them out with an electric buffer and compound last year but that didn't last at all. Figured I would try out the $15 Turtle Wax polishing and refinish kit that's sold at Walmart.

 

Passenger headlight was the worst:

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Exterior/Headlights/20151115_162307.jpg~original

 

I didn't grab any pictures of the process, but it's really straight forward, just follow the directions on the box...

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Exterior/Headlights/20151117_084422.jpg~original

 

 

Before:

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Exterior/Headlights/20151115_162258.jpg~original

 

After:

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Exterior/Headlights/20151117_084458.jpg~original

 

It's surprising by how much newer the car starts looking by having nice and clean headlights. Hopefully this kit lasts a while and keeps them looking this way for a while

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Exterior/Headlights/20151117_084345.jpg~original

 

 

Looks fantastic! What's was your time investment per side? Power tools or hand?

I got the UV clear coat that I haven't used yet. Did the kit have similar? I wanted to take them off and not just mask the entire car from over spray.

 

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k280/merc6/DC8D56C8-B347-4B94-AA52-82E06F83831F_zpssd7pc5kh.jpg~original

Nah, the turtle wax kit just has sanding pads, lubricant, and a finishing polish I believe. I tried one two years back on my old truck, the headlights were foggy again in a week...

Looks fantastic! What's was your time investment per side? Power tools or hand?

 

Probably an hour, but I really went to town on them. All hand tools, the kit comes with 4 different grit sand papers.

 

I got the UV clear coat that I haven't used yet. Did the kit have similar? I wanted to take them off and not just mask the entire car from over spray.

 

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k280/merc6/DC8D56C8-B347-4B94-AA52-82E06F83831F_zpssd7pc5kh.jpg~original

 

I used a clear coat before and pretty much ruined my headlights, not sure I wanna try another spray one again...

 

Nah, the turtle wax kit just has sanding pads, lubricant, and a finishing polish I believe. I tried one two years back on my old truck, the headlights were foggy again in a week...

 

Correct it has polishing compound, cleaning compound, 4 sand paper grits, then a sealing compound. The sealing compound is important to keep them from going foggy again, if your kit didn't have it then it would turn foggy in no time.

 

This kit, and I was wrong it's $8 not $15! [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-T-240KT-Headlight-Restorer/dp/B001TI5IIQ]Amazon.com: Turtle Wax T-240KT Headlight Lens Restorer Kit: Automotive[/ame]

I wish Subaru (or any/all manufacturers) would sell just lenses. i bet even at something like $50 a lens, we'd be getting them so we could go 4-5 years of worry free and foggless lights. and no sanding/polishing/painting! would need to remove the bumper/lights though, but a small price to pay.

I wish Subaru (or any/all manufacturers) would sell just lenses. i bet even at something like $50 a lens, we'd be getting them so we could go 4-5 years of worry free and foggless lights. and no sanding/polishing/painting! would need to remove the bumper/lights though, but a small price to pay.

 

Like saying I wish Subaru would just sell a long block...