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Dealer scam?


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Just came back from 60k service done at a dealer (paid $$$). Part of the service was brake fluid change, however the bleeder caps on all 4 corners are covered with dirt as if nobody even touched them. Looks like scam to me, no way in the world caps can stay this uniformly dirty if they were removed, am I right?

 

Another issue is air filter box was not properly closed leaving gap at the bottom, at least I can fix it myself. I had an issue with this particular dealership in the past, they had my car in for repairs and didn't do an oil change which I requested, of course they didn't forget to charge me for it.

 

Now wondering if all other services were actually done, like spark plugs, transmission oil change, coolant, etc. I plan to pay them a visit tomorrow and make a big noise, will also notify Subaru.

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Perfect reason to do all the MX yourself! Sorry about the dealership being a bunch of douche canoes.

 

I'd love to, but no time for that with a f/t job, working wife, and 2 kids. I do sometimes change oil myself, but this was too much of a project for me.

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When I asked a service rep at dealer nearby for a quote for "brake fluid change" part of 30k service, he gave me two prices, one for 'regular' service (which according to him is what they do for 30k service) which pretty much only amounted to sucking the old fluid off the reservoir, and a 'complete', involving a flush. Second price was ridiculous for this kind of service and the first one was a complete rip-off for the work involved IMO.
666
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Well, I now think it may have been the "lesser" brake fluid service as I was quoted $119 for it as an individual item which sounds low, by dealer standards at least, for the amount of work involved to properly flush the system.
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What a joke. Method #1 by sucking only the fluid out of the reservoir means all the new fluid gets contaminated once you use your brakes a few times. There would be a marginal, if any, improvement in the brake performance by doing this. It also does not get any of the air out and leaves most of the contaminants, water etc in there.

 

I suggest unless you have an extended warranty (which are usually full of crap anyway), then find yourself a good independent to do servicing.

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bunch or BS. They suck a few ounces of fluid in like a minute or two for $119. Talking about profit of what... maybe $110-115?

 

I would go back and rip the service adviser a new one. Also you can call SOA but I am sure they can do very little. What you can do is ask them to show you the 30k service and say to SOA that they do not provide what they (Subaru) advice (partial fluid change or really nothing or really misrepresenting as the normal person will look at the brake fluid tank see an almost new fluid and think they did the job). Also you can complain to your local BBB, local state's attorney office etc etc... Up to you. give them crap they will not scam people. Else they get away with everything they can.

 

cheers

 

Nick

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Just called up the service rep and he told me they were actually supposed to bleed the brakes as the part of the service and then I gave him everything I thought about their crappy service. He said to bring the car so they can properly do it. What a scam and a waste of time.
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don't take it to the dealer ever again, find a good independent subie mechanic.
258k miles - Stock engine/minor suspension upgrades/original shocks/rear struts replaced at 222k/4 passenger side wheel bearings/3 clutches/1 radiator/3 turbos
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don't take it to the dealer ever again, find a good independent subie mechanic.

 

I usually don't, only for major service or warranty repairs. I don't understand why they cannot do a quality work for the amount of money they take.

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Not sure if you really trust to get the job done. If they screwed it up how do you know they will not just wipe/clean the bleed screws and call it the day?

 

Ask them to refund the $115 and have it done somewhere else.

 

if I was you I would run from that place.

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Not sure if you really trust to get the job done. If they screwed it up how do you know they will not just wipe/clean the bleed screws and call it the day?

 

Ask them to refund the $115 and have it done somewhere else.

 

if I was you I would run from that place.

 

I know, but they told me I can watch them do it this time. I'd probably do that anyway now even if I went to have it done elsewhere. Looks like all dealerships are bad in the area where I live, this is unfortunate as that will likely be the only reason my next car won't be a Subaru :(

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What a joke. Method #1 by sucking only the fluid out of the reservoir means all the new fluid gets contaminated once you use your brakes a few times. There would be a marginal, if any, improvement in the brake performance by doing this. It also does not get any of the air out and leaves most of the contaminants, water etc in there.

 

I suggest unless you have an extended warranty (which are usually full of crap anyway), then find yourself a good independent to do servicing.

 

And if the fluid isn't completely flushed then the water absorbed by the fluid will never be evacuated and if the fluid contains water it will cause corrosion in various brake detail parts as well as lowering the boiling point for the brake fluid which can be a bad thing.

 

If the service manual says change - then it shall be changed completely!

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Ok i do this regularly at work. this is how it is supposed to be done;

 

First step is to suck out all th old fluid from master cylinder reservoir. then clean out the filter(if applicable) they are usualy full of gunk. Then clean out the reservoir. Use clean brake fluid and a clean rag for this. no need to worry about air getting into the master cylinder, it will be bled out.

 

Second refill reservoir.

 

Third bleed brakes. I use a pressure bleeder and adapter kit($2k) that works wonders. I can do the entire job in about half hour/45 mins by my self. I also use the scan tool to cycle the abs pump and pistons during the flush If its possible. The pistons in an abs pump are tolerance sealed(no oring seals) so if the fluid gets too contaminated it can gum up the pistons. This is also why you should NEVER push the fluid back up the line when compressing the caliper pistons for new pads, always open the bleed screw and capture the old fluid in a bottle or drain pan.

You can also bleed the brakes one of the old fashioned ways by buddy bleeding or by using a bottle with some fluid in it and a hose if you are by yourself. Always start at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and work your way closer.

 

2 liters of fluid is the LEAST amount of new fluid I have ever used doing a proper flush and that was on my 78 civic this spring and that's a SMALL car. I think it took 3.5L to do my Leggy and about 5l on my Dodge

 

As stated by ehsnils above, brake fluid is hygroscopic, that means it absorbs moisture and moisture causes contamination. That also means it will cross contaminate the new fluid if not flushed properly.

 

I share this info so that you can call your mechanic out on this. $120 is a good price if its done this way with a pressure bleeder. the other ways are inferior and are not worth the cost for the benefit.

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