Frayed belt and power steering question (with pics)

So when I purchased my car a month ago, the serpentine belt was changed as part of their maintenance, but after a few weeks I noticed a problem some other members were having.

 

Basically, at idle, with sharp turning of the wheel, I get a loud screeching, which I had assumed was belt tension. After taking a look under the hood, noticed that the side of the belt closest to the radiator was fraying.

 

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4106/5212907371_d7a3343d3f.jpg

 

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4131/5213504622_30365ba919_b.jpg

 

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4129/5212908991_48acfecc7d_z.jpg

 

Anywho, I also noticed the power steering fluid was low ( last night when I got back from an 8 day trip battery was dead, took it to checkers for a test...it's fine after a jump and some drive charging), I topped off the reservoir and got some DIFFERENT responses. The steering wheel (it actually sounded like it was coming from a pulley inside the engine) chattered violently at idle when turning the wheels, but didn't squeal. This morning, the chatter was gone, and the squeal was a lot less noticeable.

 

 

After reading through some other threads, it sounds like I just need to adjust the tension, but I was wondering if a belt being too tight could actually cause it to fray? And secondly, is that enough fraying to warrant a replacement?

 

Lastly, I'm pretty limited on tools, no torque wrench or anything, so didn't know if there was an easy rule of thumb as to the appropriate amount of tension on the belt.

 

 

Thanks

 

Oh, and I'm also going to replace the hose clamps on the ps lines as recommended by another thread to see if that corrects the leakage .

Get new belts.

 

They are $25-$35 dollars and require simple hand tools to install.

 

Too tight is just as bad (or worse) than too loose.

 

I dont have a "rule of thumb" for belts. I measure deflection.

is deflection the amount of play (up or down) your belt has? What amount of deflection should I be looking for

Here is the page from the "vacation pix" for reference

MSA5T0700A142909 V-belt.pdf

CRAP, forgot to check the pics section. Thanks mang

Is your crankshaft pulley wobbling at idle?

the crankshaft wobbling could prob lead to the fraying. Mine has slight fraying and these were new belts too. I need to re-check the tension. How much force do I apply for deflection method without gage?

Is your crankshaft pulley wobbling at idle?

 

Didn't have a chance to check it, but i will tomorrow and I'll report back

Glad I came across this. I just changed my belts about a month ago. Which was way to easy but was wondering what the deflection rate should be. Thanks for the info.

I go by feeling and ear when I do belt tension. A low frequency note when "playing" the belt is good, a high frequency note is too much and no note is too little.

 

How low the low frequency is depends on length of the belt. And modern belts don't stretch much compared to old V-belts so deflection is a bit tricky.

Glad I came across this. I just changed my belts about a month ago. Which was way to easy but was wondering what the deflection rate should be. Thanks for the info.

 

Oh and btw, I did some price checking on the 60k services...looks like $450 ish is the low end....and 800 at the high end. I'll shoot you a pm later

Soooo, just had my buddy start it up, met if get to a low idle, and crank the wheel...the powers steering pulley completely stops and the belt skips when its at very low rpms and the wheel gets completely turned to the right. Anything above 1000 rpms and there is no problem. Power steering reservoir is full, although I did notice that right where the line leaves the resevoir, there was leakage.

 

 

So, the ps pulley is seizing at low rpms...that doesn't sound good. Ideas?

Replace PS pump?

There doesn't appear to be any high pitched whining noises, like a bearing going out or something. I'm going to adjust the belts tomorrow, I'll report back if anything changes

You can see where the tensioner used to be before you got the belt changed. The nut-mark is lower on the tensioner. Yours is higher. Adjust accordingly!

 

I'd assume the pump is loading up the belt, but since there isn't any traction, it's just letting the belt drag over it. The pump is probably fine.

Um, yes, check belt for proper tightness first. If it is too lose, that is the problem. I have seen worn belts also "slide/skip". Even though tight, just too worn out and ready to snap. Once the ribbing is gone, all best are off.

 

I know Subaru says the belts can go 80k miles. But it is a belt. it is made of rubber. It is somewhat exposed to the elements and it is spinning with every RPM.

 

I was taught mechanical trades by racing and working for Local 230 for 9 years.

 

I was taught to change belts once a year no matter what.

 

I still do. Cheap insurance.

So, quick update...a tightening of the belt to the proper valence did the trick!! Thanks for all the help everybody. I still don't know if it was the mechanics fault for not tightening properly, or the belt just stretched. In any case, the suggestions were much appreciated!