What does this sound like to you?

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Ru3UMRfFHE]VIDEO0169.3gp - YouTube[/ame]

I think after this it's going to finally make me get a replacement ECU on ebay.. It's like every time I reset it I get some bogus code (knock sensor or mis-fire 3-4) and reset again and I can go like a year without seeing any other codes..

Oddly in this video at the time the knock sensor code kept coming right back after I cleared it, but the sound stopped and I went for a drive and I cleared the code again and the knock sensor code went away for good.

Hmm perhaps piston slap? Maybe I never heard it before because the timing was off by 1 tooth and 2 teeth on the drivers side, so the combustion chamber pressures are higher now?

its really hard to tell but it dont sounds good... what did you do to the car right before the knock started

jay

It sounds just like piston slap in all these videos I see on youtube.. what did I do? I took the timing belt off to replace the woodruff key because the key grounded out a nice hole in my old crank pulley.

It had to be to piston slap because as I crank the motor over with the coil pack disconnected you hear nothing

The piston slap I had went away after the engine warms up, does this?

Have you done a compression check?

If you had the timing belt off, it's possible you got a cam misaligned.

Well I went out this morning and it was around 64F and I heard nothing this morning, I think it might of been spark knock the ECU was going nuts yesterday.. it ran fully rich.. I had let the car sit 3 weeks with the battery connected but it was already at somewhat of a low voltage because the belt broke (another thread for that) anyways when I was doing the work on the car as I found it would not crank I grabbed my battery booster and started it up and that's when I heard the sound followed by some decent amount of blue smoke but not the thick kind... that quickly went away..

Now the above happened at idle and some rev, but the 2nd start up about 5 min later it only happened when giving it throttle parked.. then the 3rd time it never happened at all anymore, also I had a code for the knock sensor which was odd because I haven't seen that code in over a year (replaced sensor) and it throwing a code was crazy.. I would clear it and it would pop right back.. it took about 5 clearing of the code before it would finally stay off.

Perhaps the cranking at a low voltage had something to do with it? I'm 1000% sure I got the timing right this time (forgot to take a picture of that) but it's better then when I did the HG last year being 2 teeth off on the drivers side and 1 off on the passenger side.

The car has more power now that the exhaust cams are not opening a few degrees too soon.. I think this is going to make me by another ECU on ebay to see if it's a fluke because I know on endwrench they had a little thing about them saying some of the ECU's had issues like this but it was so small that it pretty much went un-noticed.

I just came back from a drive and I had no issues at all

Do a compression/leak down test.

Not sure why it's needed since if it was something that touched it would of been known when I cranked without the coil pack plugged in, my vac at idle is around 21-24 InHg and around 1.0-0.6 at WOT

but I understand where you are coming from, I'm due for a spark plug change anyways and I brought a compression gauge awhile back... I just know it's going to be a bitch to install on the DOHC unless maybe they have a longer hose.