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Replacing Rear Wheel Bearing


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I am 95% through replacing my rear wheel bearing. Here is a quick run-down of what I did:

 

1) Remove center cap from wheel, hammer out tab on axle nut, take nut off

2) Remove brake caliper

3) Remove ABS sensor

4) Remove brake rotor - this threw me for a loop, MAKE SURE E-BRAKE IS OFF!

5) Remove four bolts from back of hub

 

This is where I am right now. The axle is free from the hub and there are no obvious things holding the hub in place. With the e-brake engaged there is something in the way, but with it off that thing retracts. I have tried using some elbow grease and a hammer but it still doesn't want to budge.

 

Does anybody have any experience with replacing one of these? I am obviously out off warranty but need some guidance! The manual is below for reference. TIA!

 

http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/7455/17454853.png

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I hope you sprayed the old hub with PB Blaster or WD40 over night.

 

I haven't done this job yet, and can't view the picture here at work, but I think you should just need to hammer it off.

 

THere may be a sticky in the DIY type forums below.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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The wheel bearing unit has a pilot boss on the back that is a very tight fit into the knuckle or trailing arm. I used a slide hammer to try and pull the hub (can rent for free from autozone, you need the hub puller too, make sure it fits the 5x100 bolt pattern) but I just ended up pulling the hub out of the bearing.

 

At that point I just had to wail on the remaining piece with a hammer until a slight crack opened up between it and the knuckle, which I then exploited with a screwdriver and prybar until it was out. Probably spent about 1hr per side just trying to hammer out the old crap. Put a light skim coat of anti-seize on the new unit to make future service easier.

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Well, thats comforting? Makes me feel like less of an idiot. I hit it with some PB blaster last night just in case this was true.

 

Please, just please, I don't want to break anything else. Breaking the ball joint retaining bolt off while doing the CV axle was enough for me.

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I hear ya on breaking stuff. I was going full tilt with a 3lb sledge on the remaining piece and it took it for at least 30-40 mins before showing the slightest movement. I did the front wheel bearings and had to cut off the dust shield so I could get my screwdriver into the crack that opened up. Fortunately I had ordered spares.
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  • 9 months later...

I just bought an 05 LGT with 85k on it this past week. Today, I noticed a funny noise (kind of a growling) from the rear driver's side, think it might be a bad wheel bearing. My 30 day powertrain warranty states it covers 100% parts and labor for

 

"Front-Wheel and Rear-Wheel Drive: Final drive housing, all internal parts, axle shafts/bearings, CV joints, axle housing, all internal parts, propeller shafts and 'U' joints"

 

Is the axle bearing the same as the wheel bearing or "rear hub unit bearing" ?

 

If not, anything in this list that might include my problem?

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  • 1 year later...
Had this job done by what was supposed to be a certified mechanic. I was out of State. Sonofamother. I was on Highway..car was bucking and then all of a sudden I am hearing a breaking, jarring sound coming from the back. Seems like it's locking up. This happened on the highway...as I immediately pulled over, there was smoke coming from the rear wheel...Possible consequences? Help? anyone?
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Shello007 - The first thing I think of is they didn't put the hub back in correctly and only used 1 or 2 bolt holes...

 

The hub only goes in one way correctly, but looks convincing when assembled 180 degrees wrong and might tempt the uninitiated to do it wrong.

 

 

...or you got the worst bad new wheel bearing ever made.

 

Damage potential? Hard to say. Possibly e-brake assembly, rotor, pads.. obviously a new wheel bearing, likely 4 new bolts to hold that in... the ABS sensor probably got destroyed, too. Hopefully no brake lines met their end.

 

Fixable? sure. Gonna hurt your wallet though, unless you can somehow get the shop to admit stupidity and pitch in.

 

 

I'd get back there with a flashlight and look at everything real carefully before jumping to any conclusions. Could have been a CV axle coming unglued? Brake caliper locked up? You hit a raccoon and it got wrapped around something and is being scalded by your exhaust?

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^ Thanks a lot man. The other mechanic just told me the bearing is bad. it locked up and damaged speed sensor also. I'm so pissed right now. What's the chance of one bearing being a defective part? I want to think it's faulty installation. mechanic swears he installed it correctly.
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It's pretty hard to install one wrong. You may have a bad hub assemebly.

 

The bad one in there is new looking correct ?

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I have this problem occuring for the 2nd time now :mad:

 

1st time it was covered under warranty.

This time, they're not going to cover it.

 

It seems fairly straight forward to DIY but i don't have the time right now, what's an average (hours) it should take a non-dealership mechanic?

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It's pretty hard to install one wrong. You may have a bad hub assemebly.

 

The bad one in there is new looking correct ?

These are two brand new bearings installed yesterday.

Not to sound noobish, but when you said hub assembly you mean the actual bearing assembly, right? Man, talk about about bad luck. I have never been so pissed in my life. I purchased the bearings, paid to get them installed, mechanic insisted he did it correctly. Had to pay new mechanic $400. to get and install new one. ( Sorry to rant and vent guys) Now with that bearing going bad, I'm afraid it's only a matter of time before the other one goes. WORST of all, the catastrophic demise of the bearing has ruined the ABS speed sensor, which I can't seem to locate. :icon_frow

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On these cars the Hub comes with the bearing in it along with the wheel studs. So when you talk about the Hub your also talking about the bearing.

 

Here's a picture of the rear lower control arm with the hub removed and the brake backing plate removed.

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4640.jpg

 

Here's the back of the backing plate with the hub stuck in it still.

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4641.jpg

 

Here's the hub on the axle still. with the caliper and rotor removed.

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4639.jpg

 

That should give you a idea of the process.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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It's pretty hard to install one wrong. You may have a bad hub assemebly.

 

The bad one in there is new looking correct ?

 

If they over torque the axle nut ( IE impact gun). It will destrory the WB in short order.

 

After soaking area with BP Blaster & a few hits with a hammer. If no movement, I breakout the torches, heat goes a long way when removing rusty parts.

 

Mike

Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold

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I have this problem occuring for the 2nd time now :mad:

 

1st time it was covered under warranty.

This time, they're not going to cover it.

 

It seems fairly straight forward to DIY but i don't have the time right now, what's an average (hours) it should take a non-dealership mechanic?

 

I am a non-dealership mechanic and it took me about an hour to R&R. Go to a shop you can trust! Many will zap axle nuts and lug nuts on with a gun. IIRC the proper torque spec for the rear axle nut is 177 ft lbs. A little bit of anti-seize inside the knuckle will help with future bearing removal if it is needed.

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I am a non-dealership mechanic and it took me about an hour to R&R. Go to a shop you can trust! Many will zap axle nuts and lug nuts on with a gun. IIRC the proper torque spec for the rear axle nut is 177 ft lbs. A little bit of anti-seize inside the knuckle will help with future bearing removal if it is needed.

 

With all your tools at the shop, I think a hour is a pretty good job.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I am a non-dealership mechanic and it took me about an hour to R&R. Go to a shop you can trust! Many will zap axle nuts and lug nuts on with a gun. IIRC the proper torque spec for the rear axle nut is 177 ft lbs. A little bit of anti-seize inside the knuckle will help with future bearing removal if it is needed.

 

Where were you when I needed you? I'm a Delaware Dude. That's where the mechanic comitted the atrocities against my Black Mamba. Let me know where your shop is.

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Thanks. I have to redo it this weekend because I bought a Moog :redface:

 

Both my rears are Moog, they are fine. You can't use Moog on the fronts, I had to use OEM to not get a surging in CC.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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