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Clutch Won't Engage.


Chocoholic005

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I got in the car yesterday night, started it up and I cannot get the clutch to engage. Won't go into any gear with the engine running. The slave cylinder moves as shown in the following video:

 

http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/ff441/BrianStohl/th_SDV_0114.jpg

 

The clutch pedal is adjusted like this:

 

http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/ff441/BrianStohl/Clutch001.jpg

 

The clutch has about 10,000 miles on it, its a spec stage 2 clutch with the sleeve kit installed. Never had a problem with it before. The only thing I noticed when i pulled everything off was that the TOB fork seal had come dislodged and slid up the fork.

 

Thoughts?

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Could be a couple things...none of them are good. Trans probably has to come out.

 

See if there's any excessive play on the fork, back-forward and up-down.

 

Look into the trans through the fork cutout and see if you can see any carnage and check the TOB is correctly attached on the fork.

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Can't see the pictures here at work.

 

Is the TOB fork positioned correctly ? Did it fall off the pivot ball ?

 

The fork should be sticking out of the case about 2" (?) The slave cylinder should be pushing straight not at a downward angle.

 

I learned that lesson last weekend.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Fork doesn't have any free play at all. At this point i am just assuming i'll have to take the trans out. I more than anything else wanted to make sure that the slave was pushing the fork out at the proper amount, cuz i just don't know how much it should come out, and thought there was a small possibility that the master could be internally bypassing at high pressure.

 

The boot isn't inhibiting movement at all. Do you guys think its more likely a bent shift fork or possibly the fork just slipped off the TOB or something odd, cuz it really has no free play at all.

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I would remove the 2 bolts on the slave cylinder and see if the fork has lots of movement in it. be careful not to push to hard on it as it is pulled up to seat it on the pivot ball.

 

Think about how the fork should move, see if it has sidewards movement.

 

It does look like it is high enough in the picture.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I looked into the trans while someone pressed on the clutch. The fork moved through its proper path it would seem. I couldn't see the TOB. Does the TOB clip around the fork at the bottom, i can't remember if it does or not and i didn't see clips. It was quite dirty.
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The boot isn't inhibiting movement at all. Do you guys think its more likely a bent shift fork or possibly the fork just slipped off the TOB or something odd, cuz it really has no free play at all.

 

Once the tob is on the fork and input shaft, it won't come off unless something broke.

 

Grab a flashlight and look down into the fork cutout. You should be able to see if the arms on the tob are still around the fork.

 

You may also be able to get a mirror on a telescoping wand down in there. Look for any bent or missing fingers on the pressure plate and check to see if a spring popped out of the clutch disc. Also check if the fork is still in the correct pivot point, although it appears it is.

 

I looked into the trans while someone pressed on the clutch. The fork moved through its proper path it would seem. I couldn't see the TOB. Does the TOB clip around the fork at the bottom, i can't remember if it does or not and i didn't see clips. It was quite dirty.

 

The GT does not have clips on the tob, it just has small arms that wrap around the fork.

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Maybe it's just me, but I don't see what the point of digging through the hole is... whatever the problem is is going to require he open up the transmission, so why not just open up the transmission and figure it out? Unless he doesn't want the car sitting at the shop with the tranny dropped...
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More than anything i just wanted to rule out anything that wouldn't involve me dropping the trans. Cuz I don't want to do it if i dont have too. But It looks like i'll have too. Thanks Stoplight, you confirmed basically what i was thinkin.

 

Better start getting to work on this thing.

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Maybe it's just me, but I don't see what the point of digging through the hole is... whatever the problem is is going to require he open up the transmission, so why not just open up the transmission and figure it out? Unless he doesn't want the car sitting at the shop with the tranny dropped...

 

If he can spot any damage to the clutch, he can at least open up a dialogue with Spec.

 

I have no idea if they will do anything for him, lord knows they didn't do anything for me when they labeled my clutch disc backwards which naturally led to an improper install and me pulling it all apart again. Thanks for that one Spec! :spin:

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I suppose that even tho the piston can move out this far:

 

http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/ff441/BrianStohl/002.jpg

 

When it only moves out this far (clutch fully depressed) that thats completely normal? Just a final check.

 

http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/ff441/BrianStohl/003.jpg

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http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/ff441/BrianStohl/005.jpg

http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/ff441/BrianStohl/001.jpg

 

Is it just me or should the fork not be contacting the case? We used a pry bar to push the for further back than the slave would push it and I was able to get into all the gears. I'm thinking a bent clutch fork...

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Hrm, but you would think that it'd be easier to disengage since it's bent towards the piston... I don't think the fork is bent. Something else in there is causing the fork to be out of position.

 

In any case, take the whole thing apart. Post pics. Keep us updated!

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