patrick31 Posted January 10, 2014 Share Posted January 10, 2014 I have a 2005 Outback XT Limited. It has 117,000 miles on it. I've owned it for a little over 2 years. During that time, I've kept up with the maintenance. It has had new plugs/coils/timing belt with all new idlers/tensioner/all new belts/all new hoses/one valve cover gasket, cleaned throttle body, oil changes for engine/diffs/transmission fluid changed twice. A few months ago, I cranked the car and thought I heard a slight knocking sound on startup. This was soon confirmed on the next startup, and over the next 3 months, this problem got worse and worse. I have run Rotella T6 Synthetic in the car since I bought it, with a Subaru oil filter. It now knocks pretty loud until it gets oil pressure (about 1-1.5 seconds from the time it starts running when cold) and then the noise gets quieter, but doesn't go away, for another 3-5 seconds. It's silent on hot startup interestingly enough, just very noisy on cold starts! Any ideas? How should I proceed? I'm guessing I need an new engine, or rebuild this one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chato Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 I'd be curious to know as well, same exact situation. Logs show very low load and low rpm knock events, but WOT pulls are totally clear. IAM is dropping relatively quickly though. Wondering how much time I have to save for a shortblock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdelker Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Knock, as in pre-ignition, or just the sound, "knock"? Can you isolate it? Are you saying you know you have low oil pressure until it goes away? A knocking sound can also be a failed tensioner, not uncommon, even with a new tensioner in there. You should be able to isolate the location to see if it's valves or from under the timing cover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chato Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 mine did it before and after timing belt change, so I don't think its tensioner. sounds like rod knock, but just at startup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdelker Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Agreed, yours almost certainly no the tensioner if it was replaced. Are you sure it's not just the knock sensor? I'm not sure how rod knock could be related to 'knock' events. Seems unlikely they are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chato Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 It may be the sensor, have chased down just about everything I can think of that could be causing a false knock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chato Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 so after a bunch of digging/reading/fiddling I think the knock sensor was responding to variable voltage. cleaned up the battery terminals and ground connections and everything seems much better. knock events only show up at on off throttle now. so the knock I was seeing in the logs wasn't related to the start-up knocking sound. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prodrifterx Posted February 8, 2014 Share Posted February 8, 2014 Are you still having this startup knock/slap? --curious bc mine exhibits a knock/slap noise when at idle and more so when cold. But can't rule out the occurrences during warm idle. 128k (06lgt) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chato Posted February 8, 2014 Share Posted February 8, 2014 I almost always get a noticeable knock for about 1 second at cold start, and sometimes I can detect a bit of what I assume is piston slap few seconds after on really cold mornings. Definitely goes away very quickly. I've had the symptom for quite a while and it hasn't gotten worse. Think it is just the tolerances growing between crank shaft and rods. If you are getting it all the time, or even warm at idle, I'd look into it more deeply. What oil do you use? Have you leak tested your intake system lately? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prodrifterx Posted February 8, 2014 Share Posted February 8, 2014 Seems frequent. Didn't do it this am from what I noticed. Sometimes paranoid. Sometimes tuned into the noises and sometimes not. Thinking cold piston slap til warm enough. Mobil 1 5-30. No I haven't leak checked it. Paranoid bc money at the moment doesn't allow for me to put out on a rebuild etc. Also don't recall any I these noises when I had my mustangs. Or I didn't pay attn if they existed. Hasn't seemed to be worse but has been going on for awhile. Notice it within say first 3-5mins of car running, like I jump in start up and cruise to some stop lights and notice it at the red lights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prodrifterx Posted February 8, 2014 Share Posted February 8, 2014 Haven't noticed anything in the oil Also paranoid bc have had the car for 4 years---longer than I keep cars so far..and it's treated me well, possibly better than my mustangs and I haven't had issues with it. Easy On the car for the most part aside from the 20% of the time in its life with me that I've ran it hard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chato Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 might try using rotella t6 5w40 with the next oil change. also, do you do a lot of short trips? I find that towards the end of the OCI i get a bit more knocking, I think from fuel dilution. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prodrifterx Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 No I drive mainly 1-1.5 hours and 50miles to work and the same home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Autoevo Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 Has anyone figured out the Startup knock issue? If I lightly hit the ignition so the engine turns over but doesn't start up a few time then turn it over there is no knock. Almost as if I am priming the the engine with oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 27, 2016 Share Posted June 27, 2016 I'd go with a 10w-30 or 10w-40 this time of year, but I think I'd be planning for a new short block. EJ257 are about $1800 new shipped, get a gasket set for your year car and have the heads rebuild and get ARP head studs. If you want to keep the car, do the SB before something bad happens. See my click here link. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Autoevo Posted June 28, 2016 Share Posted June 28, 2016 Jesus, I just had the turbo replaced, oil cooler gasket replaced, timing belt, powersteering pump, rear end, front half shafts, wtf else... I don't even really push this car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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