Second Gen. Aftermarket Parts and Upgrade Guide (Superceded)

Most people say its worth a few mpg. There is a few threads on sl-i about it.

zues, I noticed you put in a coilpack upgrade on the list. Do you think that's plug and play for a 2.2? It might be an interesting thing to pick up for mine...

 

 

the upgraded neon MSD coilpack is about 80% plug and plau, you'll need to track down the plug that goes into the coilpack from a dodge neon and splice the 3 wires together in place of your old plug..

 

this upgrade provides a more powerful spark into the engine which in turn will no doubt translate into a good mpg boost and maybe even 1-2hp, plus its a cool red color

And you need phase two plug wires, the female style.

you can get these plugs at any dodge dealership brandnew for 20, i want to do it. Just can see myself spending money on something that works well right now

hey guys, I'm doing some more research into the ignition coils and came across this: http://www.jegs.com/i/MSD+Ignition/121/8229/10002/-1

It has the round coilpack design that I think ours has...don't bash or anything if I'm wrong because I don't have the car infront of me, but do you think this one would work?

added more stuff

i see you added a short ram intake designed for the impreza...now that will fit directly into the legacy?

Depending on what 2.5l intake you get, the tube may slightly need to be modified.

 

The reason is, legacys have 3 vaccuum hoses so another hole will need to be made... very easy and still $150 cheaper and 100% more effective than higher, 'name brand' intakes

make this a sticky!!!!!

 

Done.

ngk iridium or platinums are both good plugs.

 

If running a 2.5L DOHC would run NGK Platinum PFR5B-11 - Gap .044 (change at 60K miles)

If running a 2.2L SOHC would run NGK Copper BKR6ES-11 - Gap .044 (change at 30K miles)

 

ClubPlug.net is the best place i've found to buy NGKs and after more than 30 years of Subarus, that's all I run in mine.

 

Not sure the efficacy of going +/= on temp for the NA (both DOHC and SOHC) engines, unless you're running some serious compression or you're planning to "boost"

And by a billion percent, the best thing you can do to improve your 2nd gen engine (and transmission) operation, is to do the grounding mod. Difference between day and night in smoothness, power delivery and, for the autoboxes, the way it shifted. 1st, 2nd and 3rd gens were notorious for poor ground references which often leaves the ECU making decisions based on a poor input signal.

As far as the grounding kits are there worthwhile gains between getting the $25 and the $55 kit? How bad of a process is this to just get a soldering iron, terminals, and a roll of 8ga wire and going in there. I have electronics training and feel very comfortable soldering.

To be truthful, I used gold crimpon connectors (with shrink-tube covering) and about 30' of 8 ga wire and made my own. Cost difference, making all five sets myself, versus buying five sets, was substantial.

To be truthful, I used gold crimpon connectors (with shrink-tube covering) and about 30' of 8 ga wire and made my own. Cost difference, making all five sets myself, versus buying five sets, was substantial.

 

I have seen this and seems like a cheap DIY.

 

I just have not a clue on what to to ground where to where and what not. Any one with directions on this?

 

I was about to buy a kit with directions. Then saw this.

Here's a good link with locations identified via pictures. LMK if you have any other questions on this. And now that I think about it I did use blue 10GA wire and not 8GA. It'll make everything electrical, and electronic work better, i.e., headlights, stereo, gauges, FI, etc.

Worked for me. Try VFR direct...

 

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=986439

where would we get the battery post splitter? I'd definitely want to do some more with this, it seems like a cheap and effective mod, and it might clean up my idle issues and hesitation.

So I am supposed to run all these grounds to the negative battery terminal?

 

What parts need to be grounded in the engine bay?

Run all wires back to the Negative terminal as that gives the best ground reference and redunces the potential for additional corrosion enroute. Just used the Neg. Terminal bolt, and didn't use a fan/splitter.

 

I did the firewall on both sides by the electrial connectors, the two strut towers (used one of the nuts for the strut mount), two on the intake manifold (one on each side) and the alternator pivot bolt. Think there were a couple of others. Burnished everything down to bare metal with a dremel, then coated each connection with dielectric grease after I'd made the connection to seal it off from the air.

Hoping I can get this all figured out. What is the point of grounding from the neg bat terminal to the strut towers?

Strut towers anchor to the subframe, which anchors to the rest of the car was the rationale at the time. Still believe it to be a valid reference point.

I will see what I can do. Electrical is nothing I really know about and something I need to learn.

Depending on what 2.5l intake you get, the tube may slightly need to be modified.

 

The reason is, legacys have 3 vaccuum hoses so another hole will need to be made... very easy and still $150 cheaper and 100% more effective than higher, 'name brand' intakes

 

how exactly would you go about making the third additional vacuum hole?