Matt166 YNASB Thread

Hi all,

Starting my build thread, car has been sat for a while after bad compression results, couldn't risk driving it out to Colorado even though she runs ok, so slung a tarp over and left. Back in Maine now rearing to give her a new lease of life!

Currently talking to a machine shop about dropping them off a new SB from Hueberger along with my long block minus IM and ancillaries.

I do have a couple of questions right now:

1. I have seen some refurb their OCV's using WD40, any other thoughts on this? The car has 150k and I could spend thousands replacing every worn part, so I have to weigh up the options.

2. My car is an 05 - do I need the Killer B pickup? I have read that 06 onwards have the problems.

3. Should I replace perfectly working coil packs?

4. Any thoughts on this http://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-capacity-foldable-shop-crane-69512-9073.html

5. Looking at possibly a VF52 and Cobb DP, can I run these on no other mods apart from tune? Probably looking at OS seeing as I have an 05.

I have studied the various info on here for the last couple of years, especially Max and MrTris thread, extremely helpful.

I have done a few other bits on my LGT, most suspension and swapping the turbo out, this will however be the first time swapping an engine without the old man to help out, a little intimidated by the whole project.

I am super excited however, like a hot high maintenance girlfriend I absolutely love my wagon, had a fantastic offer for it after I found out the rings were toast and just couldn't sell it, hope you guys can help me through.

Wish me luck.

Matt

1. Just buy new ones

2. Up to you. I used a new oem pickup.

3. I wouldn't. They work until they don't.

4. I used the same one, worked just fine.

5. I'd also get a catless up pipe, but yeah should work fine.

Good luck! This site is a great resource.

Everything you need to know about replacement turbos and required supporting mods is here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/turboi-wiki-twist-178684.html

A VF-52 or TD05-Evo16G is IMO what these cars should have come with stock. Anything smaller than that is just not enough flow on the hotside for the 2.5 motor.

Thanks for reading my story.

That's pretty much the same hoist I have.

I'm still running all the engine sensors and electronics and OCV's, coils, etc. that my wagon came with. You know I drive my wagon every day. All I can guess is my machine shop did that great of a job or as I said these cars like to driven for long distances.

I may have missed it, do you have a catless up pipe ?

Hi, welcome! Thanks for the props, man. That means a lot!

 

Eh, I guess I'll follow the format here :

 

1. They're a wear item, they are to be replaced every 75k. Just remember, this build will nickel-and-dime you, and soon, $200 here, and another $200 here because cheap insurance. You don't want this to go tits-up beacuse you didn't want to spend another $100, do you? The OCVs are due for replacement, sooner rather than later.

 

2. The KB pickup is a nice piece you'll never see or get to show off after install. It comes with that nice piece price, too. Other options are from Moroso at about half that price, and for about $20, you can get a new OEM one. At the very least, get a new OEM one, they haven't had failures recently.

 

3. No.

 

4. That's what I started with, and with a little modification (new bolts, etc), it is seeing its second engine swap (Currently in Boxkita's Garage), and will move on others when its completed. I recommend every region has a set they can pass around for projects, or, the NANSB.

 

5. If you've read my threads, why don't you want a Custom40 from JmP6889928? Am I not selling it enough?! Cobb DP is a good choice. You can find the catted version from Flatirons Tuning for $535 with free shipping -- that's $60 off most other places! And of course, you know you need an STi OEM or other catless UP. Keep an eye on your regional NASIOC classifieds and CL. Post a WTB, you'd be surprised what you come up with.

 

Just remember, 18-year-old punk kids replace their own clutches in the driveway -- you can do this. Again, was my pep talk in the ERSL not enough?!

 

Gather your funds, and start buying parts! You're off to a great start!

Thanks for the encouragement Tris, will look at flatirons, couldnt seem to find any cobb stuff on sale anywhere. Had considered a JMP turbo, my only hesitation is that BNR rebuilt my current 40 about 7k ago and it seems a waste to do it again, might as well get a 52 and sell the other to someone who needs it.

All the other stuff taken on board, will probably just buy the wear items and be done, not looking for huge power just a DD with a little more than stock. I also have a little money that I have been saving for this project as I knew it was coming - I have about 8k right now, but hoping to get some suspension work done with that amount also.

Everything you need to know about replacement turbos and required supporting mods is here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/turboi-wiki-twist-178684.html

 

A VF-52 or TD05-Evo16G is IMO what these cars should have come with stock. Anything smaller than that is just not enough flow on the hotside for the 2.5 motor.

I did take a look at that, thanks, probably whats steering me in the VF52 direction, that and all the poeple that have had good success with it.

Thanks for reading my story.

 

That's pretty much the same hoist I have.

 

I'm still running all the engine sensors and electronics and OCV's, coils, etc. that my wagon came with. You know I drive my wagon every day. All I can guess is my machine shop did that great of a job or as I said these cars like to driven for long distances.

 

I may have missed it, do you have a catless up pipe ?

I do, original owner put the STI up on before the second owner did everything he could to half ass the car, still dealing with some of that stuff.

Honestly your build thread is exactly what I am trying to achieve - I work the mountains in CO in the winters and honestly there is no better car for it.

Welcome to the club!

I have an '05 and when I tore my engine down my stock oil pick-up tube was solid @ 105K miles.

Also, check Craigslist for a hoist/stand!!!

I do, original owner put the STI up on before the second owner did everything he could to half ass the car, still dealing with some of that stuff.

 

Honestly your build thread is exactly what I am trying to achieve - I work the mountains in CO in the winters and honestly there is no better car for it.

One of the things that that impressed me about Subaru was when we at the airport at Eagle/Vail in 1998, we walked out side and saw a brown Outback with UPS markings. I had just purchased my red 98'GT wagon a few weeks earlier.

Good deal, both for 100 ?

Do you have a decent compressor and impact tools ?

or at least a good set of tools ? Floor jack and stands ?

Good deal, both for 100 ?

 

Do you have a decent compressor and impact tools ?

 

or at least a good set of tools ? Floor jack and stands ?

100 for the hoist and 2 engine stands. I have this http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/93535433?src=pla&cid=PLA-Google-PLA+-+Test&CS_003=7867724&CS_010=93535433

Hopefully it will be enough, I have a couple of compressors but no pneumatic guns.

Might get some stands, usually block stuff but I think i might be able to persuade my boss the business needs some. We NEED a floor jack, the bottle jacks we have just aren't practical.

100 for the hoist and 2 engine stands.

That's awesome.

Yea, great deal.

The Dwelt is a little big but it better then nothing.

Harbor Fright has some nice floor jacks and stands. As well as tools and such.

Waiting for jackstands from HF so figured I would take care of the mysterious mouse smell - anything inside to get away from the black flies!

I had my suspicions, and sure enough...

At the point of ordering clutches.

Any experience with this setup?

http://parts.bestbuysubaru.com/p/FLYWHEEL-ASSEMBLY-FLEXIBLE/49224618/12342AA090.html

Teamed with

http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Exedy-OEM-Replacement-Clutch-Subaru-Models-inc-2006-2011-WRX-2005-2009-Legacy-GT

From my research it looks like I will need some new bolts as I am going from a DM to a SM.

Can anyone confirm that this combo is workable?

No other mods apart from a DP and a mild tune in the works.

PM "underdog" that's what I did when I needed a new clutch for my wagon, tell him what you want, he'[ll make sure you get the right parts.

Take your guess work out of it. I gather your at stock power levels ? If not, IMO your going to need more clutch.

PM "underdog" that's what I did when I needed a new clutch for my wagon, tell him what you want, he'[ll make sure you get the right parts.

 

Take your guess work out of it. I gather your at stock power levels ? If not, IMO your going to need more clutch.

As soon as I get the engine out and figure what I actually have thats what ill do - OO had the trans replaced at 100k, figure they might have gone smfw as he was a member on here.

In pretty deep right now, at the point of pulling the engine, couple of questions:

1. Is it normal for 2 of the 4 bottom transmission bolts to be missing?

2. Whats the best way to disconnect the fuel lines? Do I need to buy the ST?

All my bolts have been in place, on the 2005 and the 2009.

As for the fuel lines, one of them is so close to the bracket my tools would not work. So I took a piece of plastic tubing and cut slivers to slide in to release the catches. The thickness of the plastic needs to be 1 mm or thinner. I think plastic from a milk jug might be too thin to be stiff enough. An alternative is to remove the clamps at the other end and slide them off.

All my bolts have been in place, on the 2005 and the 2009.

 

As for the fuel lines, one of them is so close to the bracket my tools would not work. So I took a piece of plastic tubing and cut slivers to slide in to release the catches. The thickness of the plastic needs to be 1 mm or thinner. I think plastic from a milk jug might be too thin to be stiff enough. An alternative is to remove the clamps at the other end and slide them off.

Will give it a try, thanks!

Remove the fuel lines at the clamps on the left shock tower.

Yes sometimes those tranny bolts will be missing. The other person didn't tighten them enough.

Remove the fuel lines at the clamps on the left shock tower.

 

Yes sometimes those tranny bolts will be missing. The other person didn't tighten them enough.

I did this after reading your post, figure ill owe you a beer or ten or something by the time I get done.

Engine is out, came apart pretty easy.

I remember you saying you would wish you had taken all of the IC off together which is what I plan - any tips on it? Is it just a few bolts around the intake holes and a few electrical?

The pressure plate has sachs 3082000358 written on it, never heard of it and the internet brings up a bunch of euro sites.

Also while taking off my throwout bearing I think i managed to push the clutch plunger all the way out, guess I will be bleeding that when it all goes back together. Time for some shopping.

Sachs is a respected name in clutch's.

I'm sorry I can't recall what the IC is ?

I removed my intake manifold and TGV's from the heads and left it all as a unit as I had replaced the O-rings at the intake to TGV's a year before.

Have you seen my new idea of leaving the turbo loose on the up pipe and install the tmic on the TB hose, start the two bolts at the tmic to turbo, start the support bracket bolts, tighten the clamp at the TB hose, then tighten the two bolts at the turbo then tighten the 3 "bolts" at the turbo to up pipe.

Oh, remove the rubber boots from both ends of the TB hose, throw them away.

I meant intake manafold, guess it should have been IM.

Giving it a go this afternoon!

Block is with Casey at Boxermotors being built as we speak.

My turbo has about 10k on it after rebuild by BNR (VF40), it has slight side to side and slight in and out play, is this pretty normal? Am I crazy for putting this thing back in my car? I know JMP has some units for sale, its just an extra 500 and I will already have dropped almost 6 into this thing by the time I am finished. Thoughts?

Also, does anyone know the PN for the two heater hoses that connect from the engine to the firewall? I cut mine as they were seized on and I didn't want to go pulling on the heater core. Been looking at various parts manuals to no avail.