rebourne's '06 OBXT build thread

Rebourne - I agree with you. Tucked with OB tires doesn't look great.

Scooby2.5's setup is like exactly what I want.

Edit: This page has a lot of good discussions as to what fit and what rubbed

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/official-lowered-outback-thread-180375p25.html

From Scooby to get it to fit.

I have a 2005 outback XT pics on the forum. Running 245x45x18 by 8.5 wide STI Enkei wheels.

They are 55 offset and I am running a 15mm billet spacer to give them 40 offset

I'm lowered to just like sublime joe pic just above and I had to roll the rear fenders

And is at 14.5inches hub to fender.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=145378&d=1363642761

Rebourne - I agree with you. Tucked with OB tires doesn't look great.

 

Scooby2.5's setup is like exactly what I want.

that looks fantastic. gonna have to fish around for more data on suspension, wheel studs and spacers. need more space on my BBSs, and i think i'll have to have moar low for legit suspension action. kyb probably, and some new springs.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=224036&stc=1&d=1454461139

Used VF52 arrived. Looks good, just a bit dirty. Zero shaft play. I still need to research what gaskets and hoses I should have on hand to do the swap.

1) Downpipe gasket

2) up-pipe gaskets, top and bottom if changing up pipe, top only if just swapping turbo.

3) exhaust manifold gaskets, if you install a new up-pipe

4) oil drain hose for bottom of turbo, and worm clamps

5)upper and lower coolant lines. Might be a good time to swap those if they're old!

6) new turbo to TMIC gasket

That's all the stuff I changed when I did mine. I chose Grimmspeed double thickness MLS for the up-pipe connections, and perms seal MLS for everything else. I also sprayed everything with Permatex copper gasket spray. The hoses you'll want OEM. That's about it!

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Still planning out my upgrades before I start my etune.

Here's what I have not yet installed:

Grimm Speed intake

AVO TMIC

* DW 740cc injectors, used but cleaned before shipped to me

DW 65c fuel pump

Pro Tuning Labs Exhaust Mid and Y, (to go with the rear muffs.)

SteamSpeed EBCS

used VF52

Coming soon are some modified, plateless TGVs

And I am thinking of going all in and getting an ELH. Tomei or Agency power?

Probably put a Vibrant Ultra Quiet on the exhaust before starting the tuning too.

I have an OEM STi up-pipe, so I was leaning towards the Tomei, since it comes with an up-pipe. Just to get a little more flow/response.

I'm on the fence about the 740s. fahr_side says to skip them, and just run up to 95% IDC. Haven't talked to Cryo about it. Eventually I want to do E85, so I'll need 1000+s... so don't bother with the 740s at this time? Or why not?

Still planning out my upgrades before I start my etune with Cryo.

 

Here's what I have not yet installed:

Grimm Speed intake

AVO TMIC

* DW 740cc injectors, used but cleaned before shipped to me

DW 65c fuel pump

Pro Tuning Labs Exhaust Mid and Y, (to go with the rear muffs.)

SteamSpeed EBCS

used VF52

 

Coming soon are some modified, plateless TGVs

And I am thinking of going all in and getting an ELH. Tomei or Agency power?

Probably put a Vibrant Ultra Quiet on the exhaust before starting the tuning too.

 

I have an OEM STi up-pipe, so I was leaning towards the Tomei, since it comes with an up-pipe. Just to get a little more flow/response.

 

I'm on the fence about the 740s. fahr_side says to skip them, and just run up to 95% IDC. Haven't talked to Cryo about it. Eventually I want to do E85, so I'll need 1000+s... so don't bother with the 740s at this time? Or why not?

850's should be plenty for E85. but most tuners like the bosch, which are 1000cc+ (i believe?).

i'm not a fan of the AVO, but it works. have you blasted/shaken the casting sand out? do you have the mr gasket gasket? you'll want one, or suffer the boost leak consequences. Oh, and get studs to "glue"/RTV in for the BPV. again, 'cause boost leak.

also, most of the "cheaper" ELH are all made at the same place (kinugawa, tomei, maddad, etc.), so i'd go with the cheapest, which was Kinugawa last i looked. ELH should make a little more power and will make for a happier motor. or could get barmanbeans swaintech coated Invidia ELH header...

How much time on the cars clock? might want a new fuel filter to put in with the new dw65c pump. might as well while you're in there, IMO.

i'll think of more advice, give me a sec...

I got the AVO, 740s and 65c as a package deal for like $500. I'd probably do it differently from my perspective today.

I need gaskets for the AVO, the VF52, and probably the exhaust. MTBWrench has a good list up there. Fuel filter is a great idea. 127k miles, was dealer maintained to 119k, but I don't have full records. Better to just do it.

get studs to "glue"/RTV in for the BPV

huh? I'm not visualizing this one well.

And, GAH to the Invidia header! Totally ignored that post in the classifieds... now that I've read it...

Oh, and another $115 for the Sti oil pan, plus gasket. Just had a killerB oil pick up put in my oem with the rebuild...

people sometimes get leaks between the threaded thru hole in the TMIC and the bolt(s) for the BPV. to eliminate this possibility, get studs and RTV those bastards into the threaded holes. done.

The issue is caused by AVO/others making these threaded holes go all the way thru the endtank and open to pressurized air on the inside. wants to come out. threaded non-thru holes or studs that are "sealed" in place would have been better.

I'd use some RTV on the threads like it's antiseize, then a little around the stud on the inside of the TMIC. easier said than done.

i just said FU AVO TMIC, so i've got a nice barely used one to sell sometime. BP OEM TMIC for me for now.

and yeah, why "STI" oilpan? i thought all us USDM turbo'd engines had the same pan...

'05 pans are different. Not sure about '06??

here is KB's post from the other place. Pics show the differences. I purchased a '05 for my rebuild, then found out it wont work with the KB pickup...

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=27383408&postcount=36

The 05s had a slightly different design. The later models have a slightly different design. I am unsure why he wants to change out his 05 oil pan though.

According to KillerB, more header options:

From all the factory pans I've seen I'd go with a 06+ STI version pan. It will give you more header options and compared to the previous STi versions it's a better pan. The 06+ pan has the drain plug lower (so more oil drains out on oil changes), and if you want to get every drop out (with a hose and pump) or peek inside it doesn't have a shroud over the drain hole. I'd say the baffling is probably marginally better too. The only thing I don't like about the 06+ setup is the pickup sits a little too high for my taste. Since I run my own pickup I don't have this problem because it sits a little lower.

Edit: thanks Cbax, I was looking for that post.

Im almost positive that the pickups are different as well. The KB pickup only works on the '06+. Instead of chancing it, I just got the 151 part #. Sold the 131 locally. The 151 part # is also cheaper than the 131 at Heurberger. I think $20 cheaper.

And I also just read in that thread that the metal plate inspection cover is different. gaah! just ordered one for an '05...

Oil pan, would be to fit BarManBean's 1.5 scroll? I'm supposed to wait until March to get headers though.

Pulling my current headers out to swap in a set of KillerB headers.

 

Up for sale is a set of Invidia 1.5 scroll race headers that have been Swaintech coated...

<snip>

 

Must use STI style oil pan (Subaru Part Number: 11109AA151)

 

</snip>

'05 pans are different. Not sure about '06??

 

here is KB's post from the other place. Pics show the differences. I purchased a '05 for my rebuild, then found out it wont work with the KB pickup...

 

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=27383408&postcount=36

Oh, so I may have the right oil pan for the Invidia 1.5 scroll.

"Bottom Right: OEM 06+ EJ25 Impreza WRX/STi (STi, Legacy GT & Forester XT) Subaru number 11109AA151 " Can I ass-ume that the '06 OBXT pan is the same as the '06 LGT.

Bmb, the verbiage here along with some other posts I saw is what made me question it. I guess i assumed the early 05 lgt/obxt pan was the 131 part #. Good to know its not an issue. And not big dealto me since I already sold the other one.

https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/oil-control-devices/kil-070-110-killer-b-motorsport-ultimate-oil-pickup

Picked up some Legacy calipers from a local member.

Anyone save me some time on what else I need? Is it just legacy rotors?. These calipers have some pretty new looking pads with them, but of unknown brand or compound.

I'll need to look at that Nasioc brake spread sheet to figure out what pads to run front and rear. I'll be keeping the stock obxt rears calipers/rotors for now.

Picture of calipers in a beer box:

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=224482&stc=1&d=1455055036

Paint.

But yeah, i think it's just rotors. Maybe some shield trimming.

I have my 4 new calipers just sitting in the garage still. Need clips, rotors, pads. It adds up.

Those sweet rims are showing off your puny little brakes

 

LGT BRAKE SWAP TIME!

 

 

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I have way more parts I want to spend money before that. Anyways, I'd do better pads and a mc brace before a brake swap.

Currently eating my words on this one...

Paint.

 

But yeah, i think it's just rotors. Maybe some shield trimming.

^I concur with both those statements. Paint them silver, it'll look fantastic. And yeah, just rotors. I had to trim the from first shields, rears were fine.

Currently eating my words on this one...

I figured this would end up happening. just wait till you get them on, it'll be like a whole new wagon. Mine sure felt that way.

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A whole new heavier wagon . It's super noticeable how much heavier they are.

I didn't have to trim / touch my front shields. They were fine.

I painted the calipers black. Helps hide brake dust, because these stoptechs are dusty!

I need to schedule some time off work to get all this stuff done, and I'm trying to intelligently group the parts together. Starting with the parts that don't require a re-tune first, so I can continue to use the car, although I do have a backup car. Then move on to the more and more impacting parts before babying it before the tuning process. I also want to reduce confusion if something causes a problem, although that's asking alot with this group of parts. I'm thinking of taking 2 days one week, and 2 days the next week to account for ordering parts or tools I didn't, um, account for.

Here's my first swipe at it:

Week 1

Day 1

TMIC

Fuel Pump

Day 2

plateless TGVs

exhaust

Week 2

Day 3

Invidia Header

VF52

Day 4

EBCS

grimmspeed intake

baseline runs?!

Any days that go better than planned, I can work on:

Perrin steering dampener lockdown

Legacy front calipers, pads, rotors, and new rear pads, rotors.

Wash it.