What'd you do to your FIRST Gen. Subaru today?

had to replace my Mass Air Flow sensor other day, bought from amazon for 130 (with tax and 2 day shipping) cheaper then any parts store in town, same dorman brand, no have no odd engine dying but idles a bit higher now.

^^Did you disconnect your battery for a few minutes to reset the ECU so it can relearn AFRs?

had to replace my Mass Air Flow sensor other day, bought from amazon for 130 (with tax and 2 day shipping) cheaper then any parts store in town, same dorman brand, no have no odd engine dying but idles a bit higher now.

 

Just curious, do you have a manual or an auto transmission? There is a specific MAF for each type. The aluminum housing MAF (22680AA170) is for turbo leggys and 5MTs.

 

I have been curious as to how well the car would run with the "wrong" MAF type.

 

I just ordered a new MAF as well, it will be my third. Can't find any at the junkyard so I had to bite the bullet. It was $160 but a lot less than the $380 the dealer wanted.

i have an auto n/a only real bell whistle it has is AWD, and no i have not unplugged battery, it's idling ok now, been cold so that may be the culprit of high idle or me not making sure to tighten down clamps

New transmission is finally in! Was one hell of a battle as I was on an inclined driveway so I was cursing as sockets, bolts drop and roll down the driveway. I have found my sockets 1/4 mile down the road before and being on a creeper did not help. The final product was well worth it. This 5 speed shifts like brand new and the 4.11 final drive is really quick off the line. I suprised myself when I roasted the tires making a u-turn and bouncing off the launch control which is only set at 3400rpm.

Fairly certain ive never posted here but either way my car has made some extensive changes in the last 2 months.

 

91 SS, 18g, 25d heads, 257 short block, 480cc, 6spd and as of a few weeks ago, was running on a PP6. As of today it now has 830cc injectors, and an Enduring Solutions daughter board in place of the PP6. It will be on the dyno Thursday so I'll post an update

Sounds Awesome! You need a build thread so we can see all the details!!!

Hey guys! My '92 SS (159k miles) died yesterday morning. This is what happened and what I think. Look forward to some input.

 

So I headed off to work yesterday morning, currently have 1/3 tank of gas, and I thought it was a little weird when the car didn't immediately fire up as it always does, first try. Second try it fired up and ran fine. I let it warm up a little and headed of down the road. Just before I hopped on the freeway I gave it about 50% throttle and it sputtered, I was surprised. Got on it a few more times thinking it was an anomalie, but every time it sputtered and stumbled really bad, falling flat on its face, but it was hitting target boost and no CEL. I decided to not risk getting stranded and turned around to head home to grab the other car. I noticed that the sputter only happened when throttle input was more than, say, 30%, during cruising and relaxed acceleration the car ran fine. I put it in the driveway and turned it off, pulled the other car out of the garage and went to restart the SS to put in the garage. It turned over but would not fire.

 

Also, since this car is still fairly new to me (<2 months), I do drive her almost every day, and I have noticed a very little stumble between 3-4k rpms on initial WOT when first getting into full boost, but it runs fine the rest of the way to 6k rpms. If the fuel pump died, it would make sense that that stumble may be associated with the fuel pump not performing properly or reacting to the requested duty cycle quickly enough.

 

This morning I turned her on and didn't hear any fuel pump priming sound, but then again, I can't say I ever noticed it before, because the auto seat belts make a racket.

 

If it's the fuel pump, I will get a Walbro 255 (GSS341) with the 400-791 install kit or a DeatschWerks DW200 (9-201-0791) with install kit. Any recommendations either way? The price is comparable.

 

Thanks!

Your issues sound a lot like a bad MAF. I sound like a broken record but the MAFs crapping out have been a thorn in my side.

 

The same thing happened to my SS both times my MAF went bad. The first time I thought it was a fuel pump at first so I replaced it, and I still think it was a dying pump. It helped, but didn't cure the problem. I had multiple issues going on at once so that was fun.

 

The first MAF crapped out around 165k, and the second junkyard MAF lasted me about a year. I should be getting a reman MAF tomorrow and hopefully she'll be tearing it up again. Unfortunately, that also means I have to give it back to my wife.

 

I've been happy with my Walbro for almost two years.

Picked up headlights and tails from my painter today so I could get a better look at the condition. Headlights are basically spotless all around:

 

http://i.imgur.com/rw8jVcth.jpg

Thanks, I don't want to make any rash money decisions and just buy a pump when I am not certain I need one. Tomorrow evening I will pull the access cover in the trunk and make sure the pump is getting full voltage to rule out a fuse, relay or wiring issue and also have a better listen for the pump noise. If it seems to be working, I will look toward the MAF.

Picked up headlights and tails from my painter today so I could get a better look at the condition. Headlights are basically spotless all around:

 

http://i.imgur.com/rw8jVcth.jpg

 

Heres what ya need to do with your headlights......

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s305/sadiemaerogers01/0925140750_zps960b3d30.jpg

Heres what ya need to do with your headlights......

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s305/sadiemaerogers01/0925140750_zps960b3d30.jpg

 

Looks great, but not my style. OEM for life!

Hey guys! My '92 SS (159k miles) died yesterday morning. This is what happened and what I think. Look forward to some input.

 

So I headed off to work yesterday morning, currently have 1/3 tank of gas, and I thought it was a little weird when the car didn't immediately fire up as it always does, first try. Second try it fired up and ran fine. I let it warm up a little and headed of down the road. Just before I hopped on the freeway I gave it about 50% throttle and it sputtered, I was surprised. Got on it a few more times thinking it was an anomalie, but every time it sputtered and stumbled really bad, falling flat on its face, but it was hitting target boost and no CEL. I decided to not risk getting stranded and turned around to head home to grab the other car. I noticed that the sputter only happened when throttle input was more than, say, 30%, during cruising and relaxed acceleration the car ran fine. I put it in the driveway and turned it off, pulled the other car out of the garage and went to restart the SS to put in the garage. It turned over but would not fire.

 

Also, since this car is still fairly new to me (<2 months), I do drive her almost every day, and I have noticed a very little stumble between 3-4k rpms on initial WOT when first getting into full boost, but it runs fine the rest of the way to 6k rpms. If the fuel pump died, it would make sense that that stumble may be associated with the fuel pump not performing properly or reacting to the requested duty cycle quickly enough.

 

This morning I turned her on and didn't hear any fuel pump priming sound, but then again, I can't say I ever noticed it before, because the auto seat belts make a racket.

 

If it's the fuel pump, I will get a Walbro 255 (GSS341) with the 400-791 install kit or a DeatschWerks DW200 (9-201-0791) with install kit. Any recommendations either way? The price is comparable.

 

Thanks!

 

yea my N/A did the same thing, was fine for short trips but if i got on it for any reason it said "nope" and died and every so often it died for no reason, turned out was my maf, either clean or replace, also pull the fuel pump relay and hold it to feel if it works, if it clicks then head to the pump and poke at that.

Edited November 12, 2014 by robert0508
adding suffs

Too bad cleaning my MAF didn't do squat.

Took about ten minutes cleaning up tails today:

 

http://i.imgur.com/GisXmPfl.jpg

http://i991.photobucket.com/albums/af38/stu-nami/STUbaru/20141113_105316_zpszge0gbad.jpg

First snow of the year. BRAPPPAPPPpshhpssshhs

I installed my new MAF last night and my hesitation issue went away as I had hoped, but the intermittent rough idle was still there which I thought the MAF would take care of. I checked all the vacuum lines a few times (they are all new and replaced), and couldn't find anything.

 

I was about to give up and then I saw the spark plug boot near the power steering pump was poking up an bit. The engine was running and I pushed it back in and the rough idle ceased. I took it around the block and the rough idle came back. I pulled the boot out and the tip was covered in brown sludge. I went to the parts store and purchased 1 NGK V Power plug (Part no. BKR6E11 - the ONLY plugs to use on an SS!!!).

 

I pulled the plug and it seemed like it came out really easy, not tight at all. The top of the plug where it connects to the boot was clean, but below that and towards the crush washer it was covered in brown sludge. Also, the tip of the plug was black and sooty. Installed the new plug and she was running like a champ again!

 

I have a pretty bad power steering leak so I think it may have leaked down and fouled the plug??? Or perhaps it was loose so oil was getting through or compression leak??? Any opinions? I couldn't tell if the sludge was steering fluid or oil.

 

But the new MAF was definitely a huge improvement. Before I replaced it power mode never came on unless I hit my power mode switch that I installed but now if I go WOT it comes in instantly. Butt dyno feels like the car is faster than it has ever been.

 

So if any of you have a bad MAF I would advise not to get a junkyard replacement like mine but to just buy a reman.

 

So now I need to fix the power steering leak. But while I was under the car poking around I also found a fairly massive leak on the driver's side cam seal. It is a steady drip. Which sucks since I replaced it when I rebuilt the motor. Maybe the camshaft is scored or something. Too bad it is such a PITA to replace.

soooo 205/70 STILL too big. Going for straight winters now because seems winter is going to be pretty icy after our first storm hit these past few day so what the hell. 205/65 is the choice and these hankooks are going on tomorrow once they reach the shop

http://www.hankooktire.com/global/passenger-cars-tires/hankook-winter-i-cept-iz-w606.html__________________

Edited November 16, 2014 by s2baru

I weighed my car with no rear seat, 2920lbs. The 60/40 rear fold down seat with leather weighs a lot more than you would think. Going to trade some 440cc injectors for impreza rs hood vents, just want evacuate some air while looking somewhat correct. Still no hood scoop as I don't want any extra attention.

Fixed my spedometer

 

No more "check engine" light

 

http://i936.photobucket.com/albums/ad210/fotopaisagem/93spaceship/foto-2_zpsfe0a82f7.jpg

 

http://i936.photobucket.com/albums/ad210/fotopaisagem/93spaceship/pasp_zps1769226d.jpg

Edited November 18, 2014 by 93wagonship

I had my battery checked and it was bad which was the cause of my starting issue, lol. The tech at PepBoys told me that the battery was from WalMart and was still under warranty. I headed down there and took the battery inside and they looked up the serial number and it was two weeks past warranty so I had to buy one.

 

I was checking online and someone said that they just get their WalMart battery checked the month before the battery is not under warranty and they get a new one that starts with a new three year warranty so I'll try that.

 

My Prosport boost gauge quit working. I talked to Prosport and they said the sending unit was bad so I ordered and installed a new sending unit. Still doesn't work. So I'll talk to them again today and see what they say. It worked great for a few years and I got it for free so I can't complain too much. I'd like a better gauge like a Defi but I don't feel like shelling out $200.

 

I also fixed my PowerMode switch.

 

Now I need to fix that power steering leak...

Hey guys! My '92 SS (159k miles) died yesterday morning. This is what happened and what I think. Look forward to some input.

 

So I headed off to work yesterday morning, currently have 1/3 tank of gas, and I thought it was a little weird when the car didn't immediately fire up as it always does, first try. Second try it fired up and ran fine. I let it warm up a little and headed of down the road. Just before I hopped on the freeway I gave it about 50% throttle and it sputtered, I was surprised. Got on it a few more times thinking it was an anomalie, but every time it sputtered and stumbled really bad, falling flat on its face, but it was hitting target boost and no CEL. I decided to not risk getting stranded and turned around to head home to grab the other car. I noticed that the sputter only happened when throttle input was more than, say, 30%, during cruising and relaxed acceleration the car ran fine. I put it in the driveway and turned it off, pulled the other car out of the garage and went to restart the SS to put in the garage. It turned over but would not fire.

 

Also, since this car is still fairly new to me (<2 months), I do drive her almost every day, and I have noticed a very little stumble between 3-4k rpms on initial WOT when first getting into full boost, but it runs fine the rest of the way to 6k rpms. If the fuel pump died, it would make sense that that stumble may be associated with the fuel pump not performing properly or reacting to the requested duty cycle quickly enough.

 

This morning I turned her on and didn't hear any fuel pump priming sound, but then again, I can't say I ever noticed it before, because the auto seat belts make a racket.

 

If it's the fuel pump, I will get a Walbro 255 (GSS341) with the 400-791 install kit or a DeatschWerks DW200 (9-201-0791) with install kit. Any recommendations either way? The price is comparable.

 

Thanks!

 

So this is what I have found. Pulled the 6pin connector on the fuel tank. With key in the ON position, and per the wiring diagrams, Pins 1 (power) and 4 (ground) are the fuel pump and no voltage on either, Pins 2, 3 and 5 are the fuel level sender. Pin 3 has 4 volts (partial tank 'o gas?), Pin 2 has 12v and Pin 5 has nothing (ground).

 

This leads me to believe its the fuel pump relay, which sucks because it's super hard to access and buried up in the dash.

 

Any thoughts? Anything else that would cause the fuel pump not to get voltage when the key is ON? Given the sputtering symptoms before it completely refused to start, this doesn't make sense.

 

Just read on bbs that I have to connect the green test connectors to cycle the relays and while connected, then check for power to the pump. Does this sound right?

Edited November 18, 2014 by GTEASER

http://i991.photobucket.com/albums/af38/stu-nami/STUbaru/20141118_084754_zpsdjom1rjj.jpg

winter mode engaged. 205/65r15 hankook I-cept are on along with the 2inch strut spacers. Never had snow tires before and holy crap the grip is ridiculous, especially on ice.

GTEASER I'm experiencing similar issues and haven't narrowed it down yet.